
Posts made by z0m4d
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RE: Operation Barbarossa Prevention 2nd Edition
As Soviet Union I prefer to buy something like 2 mechs and a tank for my forward ICs and set up for an quick strike into Finland/Norway and Iraq on Turns 4/5. Those NO IPCs come in handy, but it has to be a hasty retreat thereafter. Sometimes, if the German army is split I can pull off one or two successful attacks against the rising tide, but only if I don’t leave myself vulnerable to the counterattack. Of course, if Germany attacks prior to Turn 4 then the Soviet invasion of Scandinavia/Iraq must be abandoned.
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RE: Where to Buy?
I cannot find a starter pack for this anywhere on the internet. Do they still exist?
I have a bunch. What exactly are you looking for?
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RE: Getting started with A&A miniatures - what to buy?
- do I NEED a starter/base set to get the rules for a particular flavor (Task Force, Flank, Zebra, etc.)
- Does a base/starter set have enough pieces and parts to let us actually get started (even on a limited scale) to give it a test run without spending major $$$
Thanks!
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You don’t need a starter or base set to play if you download the rules. Each domain (land, War at Sea, and Angels 20/Bandits High) is independent and incompatible with the others. Within each domain, all sets are completely compatible and no set is necessarily better than another. The exception is perhaps with the land based game. In the first four sets the vehicles were not always to scale. Players call them version 1 or V1. From the set 1939-1945 and thereafter, the vehicles were much more to scale. We call them version 2 or V2. Many, but not all of the vehicles were then reissued. Many of the soldiers were as well, but they are essentially identical.
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The starters have barely enough to get started. I highly recommend buying some boosters or used collections on eBay. Btw, I have a few extra unopened 1939-1945 (land game) starter sets and a number of War at Sea boosters:
Flank Speed, x1 booster
Condition Zebra, x1 booster
Set V, x1 booster
Surface Action, x19 boostersPM for more info if interested. Good luck and have fun!
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RE: Oahu players AA miniatures
I have a huge collection and am looking for people to play. Are you still on island?
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RE: Master Find Players List
Screen Name: z0m4d
US state or Country u r located in: Hawaii
City name: Ewa Beach
your interests ie. AAM, WaS, A20, A&A board games or other: AAE40SE, AAP40SE, AA1914, AAM, WAS, Angels 20 -
RE: Any Hawaiin Players?
It’s been a while since anyone’s replied to this, and I’m not sure if you guys are still around, but I’m looking for some regular A&A players. Mostly enjoy 1-on-1, but not against multi-player games, either. I have AAE40SE, AAP40SE, AA1914, AA Miniatures, War at Sea, and Angels 20/Bandits High. Hope to get some games going!
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RE: 2nd Edition Balance
Dumping units into Africa itself only takes away Italian IPC and NOs. The whole game really rests upon Cairo. Can Germany take Moscow (and the other USSR VCs) while Italy holds Cairo before losing any European VCs? Once we realized that, my friend playing Germany dumped all original fighters into Africa, supporting the Italian move to Cairo. He also moved the German surface ships to the Med. Once Italy took it, it was impossible to take back in any reasonable time length. Also, Italy should keep harassing Gibraltar, as time is more important than units at the middle to late stage of the game. Finally, Italy sacrificed a few destroyers just to slow US progress in the Med. The Allies had no chance. This, even with USSR taking Finland, Norway, and Iraq early, for a combined IPC increase of 16 (not including typical war-time NOs).
The problem for US, despite the massive income, is the cost of transports and game time to move them. I’ve planned a very precise, efficient use of time and money for the US, but it’s still a slow train to get moving. The problem for USSR, of course, is placement. But building arty on the front, mech infantry/tanks in Moscow and Volgograd, and falling back as necessary was just enough to slow the German/Italian onslaught. (Which, btw, Italy should definitely commit a small contingent if not else than to threaten a German blitz.) UK should focus primarily on Africa and not losing the homeland.
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RE: Axis and Allies Europe 1940 2nd Edition ( AAE40.2) FAQ/question
Can a lonely sub in sz 109 convoy disrupt both Scotland an UK?
In theory, yes, but in game play, no, a single sub cannot disrupt both Scotland and UK. Vessels in SZ 109 can disrupt both Scotland and UK, but no more than the combined 8 IPC value (2 Scotland + 6 UK). A single sub can’t cause that much disruption, though. You roll two dice (subs only) and add the rolls of 1, 2, or 3. So the most a single sub can disrupt is 6 IPCs. If you had two naval war vessels in SZ 109, it’d be possible to max out at 8 IPCs. Hope that answers your question.
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RE: Some strategy question
And I’ll add that for USSR, be prepared to cede territory. Fall back and give up your factories for free if necessary. If he’s serious about the Eastern Front, there’s nothing you can do to stop it. If you save all your units and withdraw into Moscow, you can at least hold out much longer. Make sure you always leave one unit in every territory to slow the blitz. If he leaves his tanks exposed or lightly protected, consider attacking them. It might be better to withdraw just before winning, depending on the counter-attack options.
And for the Iraq strategy I mentioned earlier, that only works if UK has reached NW Persia, if your southern tanks and mech infantry are stationed at Caucasus, and Germany has not attacked early.
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RE: Some strategy question
1. Do you think the AA gun is sucks in the game? No attack value, no combat move, only attack aircraft unit at the first round, and have to roll 1 to hit (although it make three shot), but cost 5 IPC!! Is there any modifier about the AA gun?
I don’t think it sucks, but I have never found myself in a position to buy more. Remember, the factories and bases now have strategic AAA incorporated into them, so these AAA are for tactical purposes only (in war terms, not to be confused with strategic and tactical bombers). Plus, in a battle you’ll likely lose, they make great first round fodder.
2. Are there any strategy value for the airport on Iceland?
Here are a couple wikipedia articles:
http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Iceland_during_World_War_II
http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Iceland_Base_CommandWithout long rang aircraft tech, American fighters can’t reach England in one turn. Iceland serves as a possible way-point, especially if the Allies are having difficulty regaining control of the Northest Atlantic.
Incidentally, I think I figured out why pre-war US is allowed to venture warships into SZ 102 for “patrols”: fighters on an acft carrier there can attack Gibraltar or Morocco on Turn 4.
3. How to make the Allies defend well when facing Axis power, i saw some Axis Strategy can rush Soviet or England at the second round, it means the Axis have most adventage that the allies?
For USSR, I usually buy tanks and mech infantry pre-war. If UK is sure to move westward from India during the non-combat phase, annexing all pro-Allied neutrals, then USSR can attack Iraq on Turn 4. This is important, as it gains 5 IPCs (2 + 3 Nat’l Obj). Same with Finland, and Norway is even more since takes away 5 Nat’l Obj from Germany. But by the time you can accomplish that, Germany can be a serious threat. As long as I have the frontal factories, I buy 3 artillery at each every turn and as many mech infantry as possible. Once your income surpasses your placement capacity (if you can take Iraq and Finland/Norway), replace mech infantry with tanks until you reach the optimized cost/placement balance. At all times leave one infantry in every territory no matter what, to at least slow Germany down. Watch out for Italy taking an easy territory so that Germany can blitz through next turn.
For UK, I usually buy a combination of 3 mech inf and tanks in South Africa every turn. Round 1 is often 3 mech infantry and 2 destroyers for the remnant Atlantic Fleet I reposition to SZ 109. Consider moving a destroyer to 112 during your non-combat moves to block the German fleet if you think they may try Sealion.
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RE: Germny Turn 1- tell me what you think!
I currently don’t have the map nearby me, but instead of attacking Tunisia, perhaps you could use your airforce to attack the French fleet next the Southern France instead? Then land them in Italy… or North Africa if they can make it, to support Italy’s Med/African campaign. Would be better than risking them for an infantry, as when you take out those French ships, Italy will have less Allied naval units to worry about and help it to secure it’s national objective.
Fighters or tactical bombers from West Germany and the strategic bombers from Germany can attack the French Med Fleet and land in Southern Italy (to scramble if necessary).
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RE: Europe 1940 2ed IPC Tracker
I made a lot of improvements. The code was adjusted to avoid some looping, and the unit purchase tabulator was included side-by-side with every turn IPC tracker. The damage tracker was also much improved, I think. See attached. Accepting all constructive criticism.
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RE: 3-Inch Hex Maps
I found the motherload! Including how to make new maps.
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RE: 2nd Ed Strategy: UK Abandon Egypt
Yeah, fear of the counterattack, and how you react to it, is a crucial aspect! I tend to play too conservatively. A couple differences with the Global version: you have two additional infantry on Egypt (ANZAC) and the Indian Ocean navy/ground units can play a strong role, depending on what’s going on in the Pacific. My little experience is that there’s enough time to divert away from India to stop Italy early in the game, and then back to India by the time Japan is a threat there.
I never thought of buying a transport and two infantry. First, because the transports are vulnerable to attack when they drop off at Egypt (remember, withdrawing the Med Fleet is a new strategy for me). And two, because I usually buy some combination of three mech infantry or tanks. It’s cheaper, but takes two turns to get to Egypt.
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RE: 3-Inch Hex Maps
Thanks, I already thought of that! But I guess I’m selfish and want as many as possible. Hopefully if they’re ever available someone will post the info here.
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3-Inch Hex Maps
BLUF: I’m looking for 3-inch hex maps of high quality to mount onto gatorboard or similar material. Must be either uncreased/folded or a file from which to print.
Hi, it’s my understanding that the earlier maps that came with sets, as well as the pdf maps for free download from WoTC, are 2-inch hex maps. When they decided to standardize the vehicles to 15mm and increase the stacking to 3 units, they decided it was best to increase the hex size to 3-inches. I was thinking of getting these mounted to gatorboard or something similar, but it looks like they come creased and folded. Is that correct, and is there any source to download the 3-inch hex maps to print onto an unfolded sheet? Or possibly a program that would allow us to make our own hex maps of the same detail and quality as the ones that are sold? Thanks in advance!
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RE: Starter and Booster Kits
OK, thanks! Do you know where I can buy it for a reasonable price? All the sites I’ve looked at online are out of stock.
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RE: Starter and Booster Kits
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Base Starter Set: Released in the fall of 2005, contained 12 randomly selected units, four double-sided battle mats, 10 six-sided dice, a rulebook, and a set checklist.
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Two-Player Starter Set: Contained 18 randomized units, 6 double-sided battle maps, and rulebook. Dice not included.
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1939-1945 Two-Player Starter Set: Includes basic and advanced rule book, 10 pre-selected units (from 1939-1945 set), two double-sided maps, a rulebook, and eight dice.
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RE: 2nd Ed Strategy: UK Abandon Egypt
I also try to avoid 60/40 rolls (when I know in advance the odds… I can’t calculate that well on the fly, only trusting faulty intuition). However, I want to try ch0senfktard’s strategy a couple times. It might be worth sacrificing the UK fleet if it sets Italy back. The only thing Axis have going for them is early momentum and time to advance before all-out-war. If you can stop that momentum early, even if it costs a lot of “hardware,” it might be worth it. I really enjoy reading all these different strategies!