Posts made by Xayd74

I want to ensure I’m not cheating anyone out of anything, so I need to post it up…

1/ Nevermind this one. I figured out my mistake in re-reading my own question.

2/ Plane scrambling - Lets say you have 4 fighters, 2 tactical bombers and 4 bombers sitting on Japan. Japan has a noteworthy navy in SZ6, and the US sends over it’s fleet to destroy the JIN. My question is, do all 10 of these planes (the ones sitting on japan) scramble to assist in and take hits for the naval engagement? And do they do so for every roll? Lets assume the airbase has taken no dmg.

You’ll notice I didn’t just include fighters in the scramble. The description for the air base (in relation to scrambling) includes all air units. This has been pretty overpowered for me, so I wanted to ensure I’m not cheating.

3/ Naval base sea zone servicing range - The NB unit description reads “ALL SEA ZONES that border a territory containing a NB ARE considered to be serviced by that naval base”. The plurality of the statement suggests that there are examples where multiple SZ’s border a NB territory, OR that a SZ that is adjacent to a SZ that is directly serviced by a NB would additionally receive the benefit. I would ASSuME™ that only THE SZ that borders the LAND that the NB resides on would get the benefit. If Im wrong, then this would be different than the range extender for an airbase, which guarantees that only one territory is benefitted.

Example: Does SZ15 receive servicing benefits because it’s adjacent to SZ6? If it does, extra ship movement and repairs suddenly encompass quite a bit more of the board. I can find no land on the map where you could drop a NB that touches two SZs to benefit them both (except for Alaska).

I played another game last night. I ran out of tacky bombers AND mechanized infantry. I used ANZAC TB and UK MI to make up the difference. Hopefully we’ll at least be able to buy more pieces from someone down the road. I also ran out of grey chips and refuse to cannibalize my A&A2004. Instead, I used a roll of dimes.

Question… The battlestrip shows an attack value of 1 for Aircraft Carriers, which is typical for A&A. The map shows no value. If the map read 0, I would conclude the strip is just wrong again, but it just doesn’t read anything. I’ve done some searching in here and not found any hits, so I was wondering if anyone happens to know their attack value, if any?

I’ve seen several times a mention of incorrect unit setup on the stock box lids, and that it’s referenced in the errata, but I cant find any mention of it. Can someone tell me what is wrong and how they know it’s wrong? Thanks in advance.

NM, I must have looked it over 4 times and never saw it, but then of course as soon as I post up, I see it.

Oh damn, I’m gonna hafta use that one the next time my Allied friends are wondering just how the heck they should win.

“Um, Jeff. Did you roll for the A-Bomber weapons upgrade yet?”

I’ve emailed them as well, regarding the tacky bombers, rulebook, battle strip and box lids.

I do believe the jap mech infantry is in short supply, but i was able to make do. For the most part, I use MI in Asia and they keep dying, so the pile keeps replenishing. But I dont let planes die, so the tacky bombers are a real problem, especially considering how many fronts you fight on in Asia. One time I actually lost track of what that unreferenced stack of tacky bombers poker chips represented. I was a deer-in-the-headlights on that one.

I’ve never used the battlestrip, so I dont care that much but I wanted to add it as kindling in the email to illustrate the multitude of documented issues in the hopes that they will do the right thing.

I definitely want an updated rulebook, not just a revised home printout or an original flawed book with errata leaflets papering the pages.

I told them I dont need new boxes, but I at least need new stickers to overlay on the existing boxes. This issue is more critical than all the rest.

I cant speak for everyone. But to me, paying $75 for an in-print game is on the high end. Enough to where I would expect a little catering to if unquestionable mistakes are made. This isn’t monopoly, and I would not want to cannibalize another game for pieces even if I had one to pillage (I have only A&A 2004 and Pacific 1940). At the very least, I’d like the option to purchase additional pieces and updated materials. I could go to ebay and buy extra pieces off old games. But correct me if Im wrong, tacky bombers are a new unit, yes?

As I said, this isn’t monopoly. The game is very complex and therefore mistakes will make it past publishing. I understand that and I do love the game, but it seems that too many mistakes have been made. Allowing a swarm of scrambled planes to defeat an incoming navy is probably an unforeseeable mistake, but not including enough pieces to actually commence combat and misprinting the setup rules seems a touch much.

@Brain:

@Battlingmaxo:

Now damged CV BB units with smoke/flames would have been sweet.

Battleship pieces with red pegs should do the trick :-D

!!!

D@@D!

That’s not a half bad idear!

@MaherC:

I’ll say this much.  I have yet to see a swarm of scrambling fighters be the make or break for the game.  both sides can do it.   and seriously, if anyone can tell me how the allies win, outside of a COLOSSAL failure on the part of the Japanese player, that would be great and appreciated.

I’ve gotta agree. So far it’s a guaranteed jap victory, even with poor rolls. The japs do not have to attack the US, but the US has to attack them. Even with just 6 planes available for a jap defensive scramble, that turns the tide on even a large US fleet making a go at Japan. And the US gets one shot to level the jap fleet (in turns 6 or 7 for me). And if they dont do it, if they have to retreat, the jap favored IPC production makes the end of the game very predictable.

Some have said the US should bypass japan and go for Asia. Lets say they did (with 5 tanks and infantry) and captured the MIC I typically drop in Kwangsu. I’ve still got the India MIC and funneling from japan to retake the complex. Not to mention the slew of Mech Infantry and planes I have already swarming Asia. I would have to assume they lost a 3rd of their invasion force to begin with anyway.

I’m using Skydrive now. It’s working, although I’m having trouble getting the link to embed, so I’m giving a direct link for now.

@kcdzim:

@Xayd74:

I dont believe I’ve made any mistakes with the factual info at the bottom. But if I have, please let me know.

Pretty sure the Anzac bonus is not for “each” japanese territory occupied.  It’s the first instance that any japanese territory is occupied by anzac and it’s never collected again.

I just re-read the instructions. It seems it can be interpreted in both ways. Like gaining 5 IPC the first time Anzac conquers a japanese province, but not if that same province was reconquered. But you could get another 5 for conquering a different one. Is the concensus that you get the 5 IPC one time only during the game? It wont take but a few minutes to change it.

I realized I had to design a new chart to take into account not only the high IPC production of the US and Japan, but to make it easier to account for the many IPC modifiers in this version of that game. Basically, I have everything on here except for Convoy Disruption, which has not cropped up in the two games I’ve played so far.

Basically, I scanned the existing NPC and then used a couple of photo editors to get this result. I wasn’t happy with the one and only upgraded NPC I found on the web, so I made this more comprehensive one. If you print this out nearly edge to edge, the circles just match the circumference of the tokens. I dont believe I’ve made any mistakes with the factual info at the bottom. But if I have, please let me know.

I recommend printing this out on cardstock and then adhering it to a laminate sheet (or insert it in a plastic pageholder).

http://d7jioq.bay.livefilestore.com/y1ps9dRdTjoGyIJGRcg85D3aYtHU8ApCkDru4JBZO65rDfFiZlzEnZo_08K1XQ3fa4yrKzEcX9ZjWybx1ptAeQJNjZ_9HHjb3Ml/NPC-01e.JPG

I noticed that in some games, 72 IPC is not enough, even with the offset modifiers separately compartmentalized. So I designed a larger sheet and added a few upgrades for easier viewing. I recommend having Kinko’s print this out on legal size paper and then laminate with a 10ml pouch (made it very sturdy and glossy). Cost me about $4. If anyone’s wondering what that space in the bottom right hand corner is for, it’s to store additional markers for the modifier shuffle. The original is 1674x880, but skydrive is reducing it slightly to 1600x841, so the text is not as clear as I’d like, but it’s fairly clear. I tried to get it down to 1600, but it just wasnt gonna happen.

http://public.bay.livefilestore.com/y1pFrz8klvnNkj5XPc8fv8ZBNXQhxPektSjYFzbwcJDnTQ6rqErJGbVyMz6r-mjCknV3xr4gas5hEQennTTPRXrCQ/NPC-02b.JPG

@Brain:

@RJL518:

i had 4 battlehips…3 tac bombers and 3 fighters attacking…all fives and sixes…not 1 hit

hey it happens

The only way to avoid this is to play another game like Chess

Or Advanced Civ, which doesn’t use dice. During an engagement, each side takes off one token (infantry).

GDFTigerTank - what are the dimensions of those boxes? Ive seen several like that, but the ones I’ve seen would never fit in the game box. My goal is always fit comfortable organizers in the original game box without raising the game box lid. But that’s probably just my own personality quirk.

Woodstock - The 1984 A&A, which wasn’t actually the original, had white styrofoam containers, not dissimilar than my solution. They were very fragile and didnt fit the poker chips very well, but it was a good design for sure. The original game was released in 1981 by Nova Game Designs, although I’ve never seen that edition. Thank you for the compliment! I was very pleased with the results myself.

When I was on the hunt for plastic boxes for A&A 2004, I found several product types for which to compare storage bins. For example, in Walmart…

• You can hunt in the crafts sections for sewing organizers.

• You can eyeball the cosmetics and costume jewelry aisles for those types of organizers.

• The sporting goods section has small flat transparent tackle boxes (which I found the most useful because you get dividers).

• Occasionally, the large storage bin section has small organizers.

Effectively, these are all the same thing, but the supposed different functions gives you more choices in shape and option.

@Incline:

@Razor:

That should teach you a lesson: Never leave your expansive units alone without protection/fodder.

It’s very, very rare when I do, but given the circumstances I figured it would be allowable to for one turn. With the way the board looked, I could’ve sworn he would’ve used the aircraft in a counter-attack on Shan State which I had just taken. Instead he let me keep Shan State, and went for a suicide attack against my aircraft.

Even the other allied players were trying to talk him out of it!   :roll:

But hell, I would’ve gladly traded all three of my heavy bombers to finish off the RAF which he’d never be able to afford to re-build. You’d think that with 2 tac bombers and 2 fighters, I’d be able to get more than one hit in three rounds lmao.

An infantry-less plane depot is a neon lit sweet spot for a tactical strike. Uncommon or not, seeing the opportunity no doubt encouraged your opponent.

@Brain:

Do you still have all of your fingers?

It’s easy to get complacent using any tool when mired in many cuts. But a radial arm saw can send a 2x4 through a wall. One must exercise caution when using any tool that operates on a track.

It wasn’t a perfect edge, like you’d see on thick plywood, but it was very straight. This foamboard is foam in the center and thick cardstock on the outside. That reduces the ripping a radial might do if it was pure foam. I used a standard crosscut blade, taking into account the thickness of the blade in my measuring. I grew up with a radial arm saw and purchased one the moment I bought a house, so I have a few decades of experience with them.

Edit: For a handheld alternative, you might consider a jigsaw with very fine teeth. Thinner blade and lighter tool.

Hi folks, I decided to start a fresh thread on this topic after seeing this one: http://www.axisandallies.org/forums/index.php?topic=16418.0 . Primarily, the solution in that thread points to another site, so I though you might like a local alternative.

If it’s an Avalon Hill game that I love (started with Advanced Civ), then I’ll want compartment storage for all the many parts. I never did care for sifting through game pieces as though it was a box of Legos. That desire had never been more evident than when I opened Pacific1940. I could tell right away from the sheer number of different types of pieces that I wouldn’t be able to buy a bunch of plastic organizer boxes and have them fit in the game box without raising the lid height.

So I knew I would have to compartmentalize the existing boxes. But would there be enough room to stick your fingers in all the little compartments, and what would I use for the dividing material? It couldnt be too thin because it needed to withstand frequent use. It couldnt be too thick because that would use up too much room.

To look at me, one could tell I was truely pained as I stared at the predicament. And what nubile comments would my friends make as they realized I had done nothing to resolve this tired recurring dilemma? My girlfriend apparently felt enough empathy for me that she kept her eyes out when she went craft shopping.

As such, she found herself in WallyMart the next day, eyeing a 24x36 sheet of black foamboard. Not only was it black on both sides, but the interior foam was dyed the same color, and it was only $3! She picked it up without hesitation, texted me that she had a surprise, and then dropped it off later that night before heading out for a babysitting gig.

When I saw it in the living room, I knew it was perfect. I could cut board strips with scissored knocks and then Elmers glue them down into the boxes. It would be detail work, but if done slowly with lots of rechecking, I would have not only the best, but the cheapest compartment solution of all my games. I set about the deed in the following order…

• Measure the lengthwise strip and cut a test piece. The test piece (as all pieces) was cut with a radial arm saw for perfection. Ahhhh, what cant the mighty radial arm saw do?

• Once I had cut and trimmed the lengthwise piece (of which I would need 10), I did the same for the perpendicular pieces (of which I would need 20). I cut a few extra for each for the inevitable mistakes.

• I then used scissors to cut knocks into the lengthwise and perpendicular pieces as my “molds”, if you will. The knocks were half cuts about the width of the foamboard so that they would connect together like lincoln logs.

• Once I was satisfied with the placement of the knocks, I used the molds to cut all the remaining pieces.

• I then fitted all the gridworks together and placed them in their boxes to ensure a clean fit. Only a light amount of trimming was needed.

• For USA, UK, Japan and ANZAC, I cut off a piece to make room for the infantry.

• For China, since they have only infantry, I cut a few extra pieces off for a special gridwork to contain all the nonCountry specific parts that could be used by all the players.

• I then used Elmers glue to line the bottom of the gridworks and seated them firmly in place.

• Then I dripped some additional Elmers down the sides of the vertical edges (around the perimeter).

• I then took the 5 boxes and then lined them up against each other on my work bench, with bricks on either side to mash them together (to properly set the vertical glue).

• I also set a weighty object on top of each gridwork to properly set the base glue (everything needs to be edge to edge to avoid pieces sliding under the walling).

After that, it was a matter of waiting 24 hours. Elmers is very strong and dries clear, but it takes a long time to set. Below are some pics of the finished products. I apologize for not having pics of the work in progress. I did not realize at the time that other folks might be interested. If you’re curious, I’d say it took about 4 to 5 hours at the snails pace I was working. There wasnt a whole lot of the foamboard left (about a foot square), but that’s sufficient wiggle room for additional blunders. When all was said and done, I had no trouble reaching in and selecting pieces as needed.

Here is Japan and the USA. Japan of course has the most pieces, but everything fit without difficulty, with the exception of the US bombers. I had to do a little wiggling to get them all in. I had the same problem with the 2004 Edition A & A. The US planes are always bigger.

ANZAC and the UK. You’ll notice there’s slightly more room in the middle compartments than in the left two sets of compartments. This is true of all the boxes because I used a mold to cut them. I did not actually intend to do this. It was accidental, but it turned out to be necessary!

I knew China would be my “everything box” because of the available space. I added a pair of tweezers for fear that it might be difficult to get some of those cardboard naval bases and the like out in a convenient fashion. Note that I haven’t needed the tweezers, but I dont want to have to even think about the concern.

Here’s a shot of the remnant of the foamboard. It’s about a quarter inch thick and has little flexibility. You can see I used the radial to slice a series of strips before I cut them off to reduce individual measuring. I realize radial arm saws are a rarity in households, so you’d probably have to use scissors, but I would not recommend exacto knives. They tend to stray off course. And once they have, it’s hard to get them back on track without seriously messing up the edge.