I guess you’re Dutch as i am, I’m a beginning global 40 player and really like how you’re doing things.
Yes I am! And thanks for the compliment.
I also like to make stuff myself and like HBG stuff very much, but with the shipping and taxes it becomes really expensive.
Can you give me some tips and tricks how you are doing stuff? Which shop to buy the wood etc.?
Maybe you life close to me?
I’ve send you a PM to discuss this offline
Yeah never do it unless Germany gives it away for free. Moving a large stack towards Finland means an easy walk to Moscow.
@Imperious:
How do you remove artwork on the OOB maps, while it looks like essentially another sea area but with some detail?
\
A bit off topic in this thread, but robert is right. I use the clone tool (in GIMP in my case) to copy bits and pieces from different original sea zones to match artwork and color as best as I can.
Nice! I ordered 500 awhile back, they were identical to HBG, but my .75 punch was not accurate… did you use a .75 or 11/16?
As my paper cutter is .75 (19mm) I made the discs .76 (19.4mm). This works really nice as the paper artwork doesn’t stick out of the edge of the wooden discs.
Thanks for your views sired and robert. I’m in the same camp. Maybe I just have to go for it and remove the other artwork as well… hmm… some more work to do :-D
Looks great, looks like you found the same Etsy dealer I use :)
Thanks sired! However I didn’t get my discs on etsy. They were lasercut locally in the Netherlands.
A short update: I’ve been slowly but steadily working my way through the roundels and have about 15 of each nation at the time of writing.
And I’ve done a few movement remaining markers with my own custom artwork. I’m really happy with how they turned out. And they are a great addition to game play when you can mark the movements points remaining after your combat moves. I like them better then using dice as dice tend to get knocked around. A token will always keep it’s value even when flipped :-P
Hi guys,
After some time I am back on working on this map a bit for my personal print. As I don’t like the mobilization board on the map I’ve had it reclaimed by the sea:
And I did another attempt to give it some battleship artwork from one of the rulebooks to get it balanced with the US fighters on the bottom right corner:
Which version do you guys like best? You can click the above images for a larger version.
Personally I like a version without any extra artwork (removing the logo, the generals and the US fighters as well) best, but that might be a bit to much time consuming for the amount of play this game will see at our group.
Next to the changes in rules there where a few changes to the game board and components as well, but form a game play perspective they don’t have any real impact. I might miss a few of the changes, but these are the one I do recall:
game board
Yukon and British Columbia are merged into Western Canada
Added border between Alberta Saskatchewan Manitoba and Central United States
Added border between Quebec and New Brunswick Nova Scotia
Made Mexico longer to end at bottom of Sea Zone 10
Correct spelling of Palau
Correct spelling of Suiyuan
Removed ‘Burma Road’ name
French Equatorial Africa layout change so it is now in line
with rest of the board (first line wider then second line)
Added income tracker to top of map
components
Anzac got it’s own sculpts
Card board AA guns replaced with sculpts (german art is now their AA gun and they got a new art sculpt)
No seperate income tracker as it’s now located on the board
I’m pretty sure there where some other sculpt changes as well, but I don’t know the details by heart.
Yeah! The new printer arrived and is delivering even more crisp printouts then my previous one.
Here the first batch of home made roundels:
After printing the roundels on photo paper, I spray the paper with satin finish varnish. The next step is punching the roundels from the sheet.
Something I didn’t think about is how to cover the white paper edges of each roundel. I tried a few things, but painting them worked out best. Markers would bleed to much and ruined the look of the roundels. Painting is not a big problem for most roundels, but a bit more challenging for the Japanese red/white stripes reaching the edge of the roundel. Here an example of the Russian roundel. On the left the unpainted roundel and on the right the painted roundel. Note these are up close pictures. They look better in reality as per the first image
Finally some art sneak preview for the movement remaining roundels (and the research marker already shown in my first post)
You are right Bass, assuming your friend playing Allies declared war on Japan with UK and/or Anzac.
In that scenario Japan is provoked and the US won’t enter the war until the end of US3. Unless Japan declares war on US before then.
@CWO:
Um, now I’m even more confused. The rationale seem to be that 75% comes from adding three selected lines from a table representing the Axis coalition. What if I were to select different lines, however? Or what if I were to pick the equivalent three lines from a table representing the Allied coalition (minus the USSR, for simplicit’s sake) – wouldn’t that give the Allies a 75% chance of winning?
US UK Chance
loses loses 25%
wins loses 25%
loses wins 25%
wins wins 25%
That was exactly my point a few post earlier:
If you’re logic would hold you could as well argue that:
If Germany has a 50% chance of losing the Europe board.
and if Japan has a 50% chance of losing the Pacific board.Doesnt that mean the Axis has a 75% chance of losing any given game of Global?
Or
If Allies has a 50% chance of winning the Europe board.
and if Allies has a 50% chance of winning the Pacific board.Doesnt that mean the Allies has a 75% chance of winning any given game of Global?
@CWO:
First, Garg’s post (if I read it correctly) uses Germany as Power A, 50 as X, Japan as Power B, 50 as Y, and 75 as Z; assuming for the sake of argument that 50 is an accurate figure for both X and Y, how does that figure get translated into Z = 75? Is it by adding 100 and 50, and then dividing by two? If so, what’s the rationale behind that equation?
Given the assumption that Germany wins 50% of the time and Japan wins 50% of the time in their specific theaters, the outcome of a global game is as follows:
| Germany | Japan | Chance |
| loses | loses | 25% |
| wins | loses | 25% |
| loses | wins | 25% |
| wins | wins | 25% |
If you then add the three lines containing an Axis win that results in 75% win.
Unfortunatly you may only do this breakdown in 25% chances when both events are independent. Meaning that the chance of Germany winnig doesn’t influence Japan’s changes of winning which doesn’t hold for global. Which statistical magic holds in this scenario, I do not know. :-D
@Nowhere:
but what makes this different from the improved custom roundels already available from HBG?
Without having seen the HBG roundels in real live, they definitely look very similar. Judging from the HBG images and some youtube footage their roundels have a very shiny finish that I personally don’t like. But the main reason form making my own is that it gives me some freedom to also make other roundels in the exact same style. Like tech markers and remaining movement markers for airplanes.
Next to that the HBG roundels are expensive and making my own saves some money (although it takes far more time off course)
This is the response I was looking for! Haha epic!
You’re welcome. Thanks for starting this statistical fire.
For all you math genius’s out there.
If Germany has a 50% chance of winning the Europe board.
and if Japan has a 50% chance of winning the Pacific board.Doesnt that mean the Axis has a 75% chance of winning any given game of Global?
Is that why bids are 45+ these days?
If you’re logic would hold you could as well argue that:
If Germany has a 50% chance of losing the Europe board.
and if Japan has a 50% chance of losing the Pacific board.
Doesnt that mean the Axis has a 75% chance of losing any given game of Global?
Or
If Allies has a 50% chance of winning the Europe board.
and if Allies has a 50% chance of winning the Pacific board.
Doesnt that mean the Allies has a 75% chance of winning any given game of Global?
With the assumption that gaems never end in a draw all the above if statements describe the exact same situation. So something is wrong here, right? And Kreuzfeld already mentioned the fact these events are NOT statistical independent.
A short explanation:
If Germany is about to win, the changes that Japan is winning as well are really minimal as the US most likely spend most of it’s income in the Pacific. And if Japan is about to win the US most likely went Atlantic heavy.
Regards,
Joost
Thanks for the compliment Rank!
Still awaiting my new printer, but I’ve managed to spray paint around 90 discs in the mean time.
No, you put a ship in 78 and one in 79. No iraq or Persia j3
As long as Japan and UK are not at war, Japan may ignore UK ships. Hence they will not block any Japanese fleet movement
Thanks for confirming this taamvan.
How does this game compare to 1941 (except for the zombies off course)? 1941 is the only missing global title in my collection since the classic MB version :-)
Wouldn’t you block sea zones with british if japan move to india sea zone end round 2? I would
You can only do that by declaring war on Japan and by doing so the USA will not be involved in the war until after round 4.
I like the Italian focus on the European theater, but with an aggressive Japan that should be done quickly to at least have the US spend some in the Pacific and hold Hawaii and Sydney.
