Posts made by Texas gamer

IL - where did you find the Market Garden game for $40?

I am certainly not suggesting to buy another game JUST for the chips.  But if someone happens to have both, the chips are interchangeable.  In some long A&A games, more chips might be handy.  You could also use the Warlords black chips as 10s or to mean something else.

Of course, it might be more trouble than it is worth to sort them or whatever.  I know some gamers combine game parts from different games into a big “pool” of game equipment.  I usually keep games and their parts separated, so it will take a bit of extra effort to dig out two games to play just one game but wanting extra chips.

Anyway, it was just an FYI.

Just some info someone might find useful - the new game Warlords of Europe comes with 100 gray chips and 15 black ones.  They are slightly thicker than the A&A 42 and Pac 40 chips - but they DO STACK.  The Warlords gray is ever-so-slightly greener than the A&A gray.

(Moderator - please move this if you think it should not be here.)

After mention of the $3 bead boxes from Michael’s, I decided to show the $2 bead boxes from Hobby Lobby that I use for storing game parts.  I have used these for some time for Tide of Iron pieces and many other things.  Sometimes they are on for 30% or even 50% off.  I have not put the game away yet from having it set up, so I don’t have a pic of a “fully loaded” box, but you can see that there are plenty of compartments and they are big enough for the largest planes and ships.

On the problem of air and naval bases, I decided to use chips.  I also use them for production centers and I have AA guns from previous games.  I used extra chip colors that I had.  One or two brown chips is a min or max production center.  Pink is a sea base and white is an air base.  Top it off with an AA gun if applicable.  These chips don’t match or stack with the gray and red, and are kept as a completely separate stack.  I use a memory aid of:  salmon is pink so pink is a sea base; clouds are white, so that’s an air base; brown is like an oil color for fueling a production center.  Now those stacks of chips seem natural to me to be able to instantly interpret what they mean.

Okay, can anyone tell me what’s wrong with my pix?  Does this not like jpegs?  I can probably fix it with a little guidance.  Thanks!

FMG - re your newest thread related to this, I will pre-order at least two sets.  I got on your mailing list when I bought your dice - I guess that is how we will be notified of when we can order (if we don’t see it here)?

It’s up on the FMG website and can be ordered.  I ordered three copies.  I don’t know if they actually have them in stock yet.  The shipping sure beats what you can get direct from overseas….I appreciate that, FMG!

This is a great place.  It has helped rekindle my interest in A&A.  I seem to be generally returning to board games (especially “conquor the world” types) after many years diverted into miniatures gaming.

My thanks also to all you who have played so many games and know the answers to questions and offer help so freely.

How much is that map going to cost?  What company/service are you using?

Litko is indeed a great place for laser-cut “flat” pieces.  They have provided bases and markers to the miniatures wargame hobby for several years.  They can do almost any text or shape you want on a number of different materials.  They could do small A&A-sized “anchor” markers or whatever, I am sure.  Jim makes good stuff and usually answers e-mails quickly.

You build a world of hexes, different size worlds for different number of players, and start with a town, which gives an infantry unit.  Move and start new towns, and upgrade towns to cities, which give an inf plus one other unit (inf, art, cav, ship…depends on type of land hex the town/city is on).  Number if towns and cities owned is always directly related to number of units you have.  Once all possible town/city spaces are occupied (cannot be adjacent) the fighting starts in earnest.

Okay combat system.  The most interesting thing to me is the shift in power when a town/city changes owner, because there is a loss of units to one side and a gain to the other.  If you lose units in combat, but don’t lose your town/city, they get replaced because that direct relationship between cities/towns and units is always maintained (kind of a reset every turn).

NOTE:  I have only played this solitaire!

There are LOTS of pieces…in his game notes on the site, he states that he studied how many of anything anybody could (reasonably/mathematically/statistically) ever need, and he supplied that many in every color!  I think it’s available for four or six players, with more pieces and more hexes (for a bigger world) in the big set.

If you want Napoleonic looking pieces, it’s worth it just for those.

Got home tonight from Fort Sill, and my copy had arrived this early this week week.  Plan to check it out tomorrow, and then start my letters to WotC to get new battle strip and pieces if (!) I need any.

I have a copy.  The inf, arty, cav, and ships are extremely well-done  (sculpting and casting).  The two sizes of houses (for towns and cities) are very clean, too, but quite “plain.”

Read the game design notes at the site and follow the link to the pics of the pieces and you can see good close-ups.

Can you let us know your price and the shipping cost?  Have you figured that out yet?  Thanks.

Sergeant York

The Lighthorsemen

Also, The Big Parade - silent, made in the 20’s, I think.

I believe that some of the films made closer in time to the event have the advantage in accurately depicting not just battles and such that we are interested in, but the uniforms, equipment, speech, attitudes, actions of soldiers and civilians.

The combat system allows aircraft to be involved in land and sea battles.  Maybe the aircraft cost links the other IPC costs in some way to make the game work well.

I have cut-and-pasted the great answers in that other thread and will work on arranging them in some coherent fashion in a Word doc.

I could probably guess…but someone define exactly the “ignore Japan” strategy and the “Polar Express” counter-strategy and which game(s) they apply to, please.

Thanks.

Frank Capra’s “Why We Fight” series is great.

The first ten that come to mind…not necessarily the top ten if I think about it very long, but close to it.  In no particular order…
Patton
The Longest Day
Tora Tora Tora
The Enemy Below
Mr. Roberts
Sahara
In Which We Serve
We Dive at Dawn
The Great Escape
Heaven Knows, Mr. Allison

…and for television, Combat and McHale’s Navy…Rat Patrol and Hogan’s Heroes in second places for drama and comedy.

edit…oh, yeah, Battleground and They Were Expendable probably round out a top dozen for me.

We must wait for the Europe map to put Honolulu on the correct bit of land.  Somewhere in South America, isn’t it?  :)

That is indeed a great start.  Thanks, frimmel.