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    Posts made by Spitfire38

    • RE: -A Painting Tutorial and Resource for A&A Global-

      @majikforce:

      Hi Spitfire, Fantastic work!  I have a bunch of pieces I painted for my global game (maybe I will get around to posting pictures sometime).  I had a question about the clear coat process you use.  I have always used some Krylon spray on matte clear coat.  Maybe 2-3 coats  I also store my pieces in a box altogether.  But it seems that over time I get alot of paint chipping of the models.  Now I do use them at least once a month to play so there is some wear.  Any suggestions on getting a better more robust clear coat?

      It sounds like you have a thorough process for keeping your pieces protected. I don’t have any suggestions, just a question or two. Did you use a primer on your pieces when you painted them, or are they just paint on OOB plastic? Do you play with people who rough up the pieces and hold them in their hands a lot?

      posted in Customizations
      Spitfire38S
      Spitfire38
    • RE: Cyanight's Customizations

      That looks really slick. Well done. If I ever get a map printed it’ll be this one!

      posted in Customizations
      Spitfire38S
      Spitfire38
    • RE: Painted U.S. Navy , YouTube videos

      @DTROY:

      To be honest when I first painted the U.S. navy I was pretty much happy with the color scheme that I had used. Lately though I am leaning more towards realistic color schemes that more or less resemble or come close to the real colors used by the militaries and navies of The World War I I era. I find that getting the right color scheme gets more difficult every time since most militaries and navies used schemes that sort of resembled each other. Their are most definitely differences but sometimes it can be some what difficult coming up with the right color schemes specially when painting naval miniatures. Once again, thanks for your insight John Brown.

      This is so true! I find that my tastes in color schemes are constantly evolving - I could easily be repainting my set for the next 40 years. Ultimately it’s all about what you prefer, and sometimes you prefer historical accuracy over aesthetics. If you play often with other people it can be important to make different nations distinguishable, but I don’t have many other people to play with, so it is mostly a painting hobby at this point. I haven’t actually played Global 1940 in over a year.

      Thanks for your contributions DTROY. Your set has a particular style or theme that makes it look very cohesive. I like it!

      posted in Customizations
      Spitfire38S
      Spitfire38
    • RE: My Painted Europe 1940 Set

      @toblerone77:

      Spitfire,

      I really have to applaud you hand painting your markings. Doing research from other games that use larger scales of miniatures I found that at the tabletop level (i.e. small miniatures from 2-4 feet away) hand painting while not as precise looks even better than a close-up look at that table top level. I also thing that hand painting markings makes them that much more unique and amazing.

      Either way I love what you’ve done.

      @DTROY:

      Nice work Spitfire….nicely done…you definitely have a great touch and good sense for color schemes. Once again nice job.

      Thanks guys - I appreciate the compliments. I also prefer the uniformity and smoothness that hand painting gives.

      Happy painting.

      posted in Customizations
      Spitfire38S
      Spitfire38
    • RE: -A Painting Tutorial and Resource for A&A Global-

      @CWO:

      @Spitfire38:

      When that is finished, I move on to the yellow hammer and sickle. As you said, it takes patience and a steady hand

      To paraphrase a flyer I once saw advertisting a Friday-night alcohol-fuelled “Communist party” being held by some university students: it’s hard to paint a tiny hammer and sickle when you’re hammered and pickled.   :-D

      Ha, that’s good :D

      posted in Customizations
      Spitfire38S
      Spitfire38
    • RE: -A Painting Tutorial and Resource for A&A Global-

      @Proud:

      Spitfire38,

      Stumbled onto this tutorial as I just joined the site.  Wow- Really impressive- not just the painting and techniques but also the descriptions, tips, and interaction.
      Thanks for sharing your work with us.

      Thank you! I’m glad that you’ve enjoyed the work.

      @Wizl007:

      Yup Spitfire 38 those are awesome
      I have a question about what you call “nationalist troops” that insignia you made at the bottom…those soviet troops …
      How did you do it? Any special  trick up hour sleeve od it is just patience and steady hand?
      Cheers

      The hammer and sickle design on the base doesn’t have any real trick to it. I paint the base red and then the boots black. When that is finished, I move on to the yellow hammer and sickle. As you said, it takes patience and a steady hand, and it will probably require you to make some minor adjustments using red or yellow. For example, if I paint the handle of the hammer too wide, I can make it thinner by going back over part of the handle with red, which is the same color as the base of the piece.

      posted in Customizations
      Spitfire38S
      Spitfire38
    • RE: Customizers Round 2?

      Hey mods, thank you for the customizer badge! I love being a part of this community, and I try to share what I know for the love of the game. Again, I appreciate it.

      posted in Customizations
      Spitfire38S
      Spitfire38
    • RE: My Painted Europe 1940 Set

      I’m glad to hear it! Good luck.

      posted in Customizations
      Spitfire38S
      Spitfire38
    • RE: John Brown's Painted Axis and Allies Pieces

      @John:

      I think you nailed my problem. I think I’m soaking my plane with setting solution to get the decal on where I want it. Could that be messing my paint jobs? :?

      Quite possibly. When you say soaking the plane, do you mean literally covering the whole plane in solution, or just applying liberally in the areas that you are putting the decals?

      The nice thing about acrylic paints is that they reconstitute very well with water or watery liquids. (They become runny again). This can be used to your advantage when your paint in the palette is drying out, but it will cause you problems when you apply too much on your finished paint job. So yes, the decal solution can ruin your paint job if you put a lot on, just as your paint job would be ruined if you dip your piece in water and run your brush over it a few times.

      posted in Customizations
      Spitfire38S
      Spitfire38
    • RE: John Brown's Painted Axis and Allies Pieces

      @John:

      As you can see I have plenty of supplies. I think the problem was more of my  method than the supplies, but I will let you all determine what I was doing wrong.

      At the current moment, I’m working on the night camo for the German air force. I’m doing 27 planes in this scheme. I’m currently about to start the windows, nose pieces and stripes, tonight.

      The only question is, do I protect the paint before I put the decals on, or do I do the decals before I protect the paint with a gloss or matte coat?

      One person has answered, but is there more than one way of doing things, when it comes to decals?

      How much setting solution do you put on the plane? Is there a thing as too much?

      These are questions that would help me. :-)

      Thanks,

      John

      Wow, you have quite the stock of supplies there! I’m very jealous, especially of your Vallejo paints - they’re purportedly the best. I can’t immediately identify any problems from your supplies. It all looks in order. You do have three different kinds of paints, so you are dealing with three different consistencies, three different drying times, etc.

      Decals: I know someone offered their method earlier, which was to put decals on after the protective spray. It seems to work for him, so I guess it should work for you. I personally put the decals on before I spray the piece with enamel, in hopes that the enamel will coat the decals as well and provide an extra level of protection to keep the decal on the piece. That works for me, so it should work for you. Sounds like it comes down to personal preference.

      You only need a little dab of decal solution where you want to put the decal. You may even want to dab it onto the piece and soak up any extra so that it doesn’t create a puddle. For example… when I apply decals to the wings of planes, I brush some solution over the wing of the plane, but I don’t want to put so much that the decal is swimming in solution when I apply it. Your solution application should be pretty localized. I don’t want to dip my piece in a vat of solution lol.

      posted in Customizations
      Spitfire38S
      Spitfire38
    • RE: John Brown's Painted Axis and Allies Pieces

      I’ll chime in with my two cents -

      @John:

      Guys, I did 4 more planes over the weekend, but I’m disappointed in them.

      When I put the setting solution and decals on, it smeared my paint jobs, and it is frustrating, because they looked pretty decent for a beginning painter, but now I don’t know what to think.

      The planes looked like they have been through a war.

      I just have to put the matte coating on it next.

      I did 2 more BF 109’s and 2 Stuka Dive Bombers.

      I will post them Thursday.

      I got some questions for you painters. Spitfire38, has answered some of these questions, but would like to hear others opinions.

      1. After you prime the piece, when you do a two or multiple camo scheme, do you paint your primary color first, and how long do you let it dry?

      2. Do you immediately start the second color or do you wait a day?

      3. Do you paint the cockpit, stripes and nose pieces first on the primer or after your paint job?

      4. How long do you wait to put decals on, after a paint job?

      5. How long after your paint job and decals, do you put your protective coat?

      6. What color primer is best for the different colors?

      7. Do you do anything special on camo striping?

      Getting these questions answered can help me show you better pictures. My ultimate plan is to paint OOB and all HBG pieces for a continuous global game and beyond.

      In order for me to be a better painter, I have to ask these questions, because of my inexperience.

      Your expertise will be valuable to me, because I want to get better and give you better photos.

      Thanks guys! I will be looking forward to your responses. :-D

      John

      1.) and 2.) I paint in assembly line fashion, so by the time that I am done with the current coat on the 20th piece, the coat on the 1st piece is usually dry. I wait for probably 10-20 minutes for my pieces to dry, but it would never ever take longer than 40 minutes for a piece I am working on to fully dry. A lot of the problems you describe sound like they have to do with the materials you’re using. Would you mind posting photos of the paints that you use and the decal solution you use? I think that would give some more useful information, since my experience is specific for my paints.

      6.) I use a gray primer on all my pieces for simplicity’s sake. What IWillNeverGrowUp wrote is true about the different base coats for different colors. I just can’t afford that, but if you can, there are a lot of specialty primers specifically for miniature war gamers that are out there. I know that both Warhammer and Flames of War offer these.

      posted in Customizations
      Spitfire38S
      Spitfire38
    • RE: John Brown's 96x48 Global 1940 Waterproof Metal Map

      I thought the same! I found it from Google Images, but it is from this website. http://www.nuklearforums.com/showthread.php?t=40820. The guy on the website gave credit to IL here on A&A.org.

      posted in Customizations
      Spitfire38S
      Spitfire38
    • RE: John Brown's 96x48 Global 1940 Waterproof Metal Map

      @Speed_Adict:

      Can this map be used to play games of '42 on?

      Or are the territories and sea zones different?

      As John said, the '42 map is different than the '40 map, so this is not compatible with any other version of Axis and Allies.

      Here is a photo of the '42 map.

      posted in Customizations
      Spitfire38S
      Spitfire38
    • RE: John Brown's Painted Axis and Allies Pieces

      Nice application of the decals by the way.

      posted in Customizations
      Spitfire38S
      Spitfire38
    • RE: John Brown's Painted Axis and Allies Pieces

      @John:

      Thanks guys, I appreciate the words of encouragement. Since you guys are so supportive, I will go ahead and show you, my only two paint jobs, I’ve done.

      I painted 2 German BF 109’s.

      The first one was a black BF 109. I tried to paint a simple white stripe by the side decals, the problem is, I don’t know how long you too wait for the acrylic paint to dry before you do nose coloring, stripes or camo. I used a gray primer, then I painted the main color black.

      If you want a crisp line or distinction between the two layers you have you should wait for the first layer to completely dry. This varies based on how thick the paint it, but generally I’d estimate 5-10 minutes. When in doubt, wait. At least we’re not using oils haha. You’ll come to know the properties of your paint the more that you practice. I try to paint thin coats, rather than globs, so that it dries faster and it makes it lookes crisper and less of a “glob of a mess”. :)

      When I tried to paint the stripe, I had problems, even worse when I tried to paint the nose of the plane, it would have black still showing underneath. It was looking like one big glob of a mess.

      This is a problem that you will run into when painting a lighter color over a darker color (especially). Well, really any color over another color, as your brush will leave a a streaked layer of paint, so the bottom often shines through the top. The solution? Multiple coats. I often paint a stripe, and then revisit it a few minutes later and go back over it to make sure nothing shows through.

      Plane noses are just hard to paint without looking globby. Use a small brush and spread it around as best you can, and then just accept the fact that it will often look globby :/ Especially on the Bf 109. Other models have better shaped noses.

      Can you all explain how you do those things and make look smooth?

      The second BF 109 was suppose to be a German Green Camo, with dark and light green stripes, here again, I don’t know when to add the next camo color, because I don’t how long you wait for it too dry.

      For some reason, it came out awesome, because I smeared four colors and made this affect on the plane. Now, it doesn’t have the distinct camo lines, as the German green camo, normally has, but I think it still looks sharp.

      Yeah, if you wanted distinct lines you probably didn’t wait long enough, but as you said, it looks pretty cool! I have never been able to blend colors like that, so maybe you can teach me a thing or two! :D

      I would fly it, LOL.

      HA!

      Also would have liked to had a yellow nose with yellow side stripes, but maybe, you all can give me some advice.

      See above advice on painting over another color. Warning: Yellow doesn’t have very much pigment, so it is notoriously hard to paint anything yellow. I normally paint two coats on the base of an infantry piece, but with the British (yellow base) it took 5 coats. Don’t let that dissuade you from using it; just know that you will probably have to put more paint over it than you’d expect.

      General rule of thumb: The thicker the paint on the piece, the more vibrant the color will be. For example: a thin coat followed by a follow up coat will generally give you crisper lines, but sometimes it helps to put more paint on the piece and make the layer thicker to make it cover the bottom layer more effectively. Does that make any semblance of sense? Sorry if some of this is intimidating or useless.

      Without further delay, here is my first works. Enjoy! :-D

      Nice start!

      John

      posted in Customizations
      Spitfire38S
      Spitfire38
    • RE: John Brown's Painted Axis and Allies Pieces

      Good luck John! May your paint be ever-so-smooth, your brushes finely shaped, and your fingers always nimble. Join the club. :)

      posted in Customizations
      Spitfire38S
      Spitfire38
    • RE: Found Union Jack Stickers

      I’ve attached two photos of the sticker sheets with some of the ANZAC planes for scale. As you can see, there are a lot of different sizes on each sheet. There is one larger sheet that has most of the sizes, and smaller sheet that has even smaller Union Jacks.

      Sizes: There is a large variety of sizes, so I don’t think you would have a problem finding something that you could use. Some of the smaller stickers are so small that they lose all detail and look mostly red. I don’t think those are very useful. However, I would not be using the Union Jack for something that small. I am not sure if this size would come out in a different design either, such as the RAF roundel. I doubt it, but again, there are not really any pieces that use stickers that small. There is definitely usable material here.

      Quality: The colors are great, and the image on the sticker is accurate and consistent from sticker to sticker. As I mentioned above, they become less discernible as they get smaller, but I think that is mainly the result of this particular design (Union Jack). Trying to squeeze a Union Jack onto a sticker that’s 2mm across will inevitably result in a jumbled image. The adhesive on these is very high quality. It makes them bond very tightly, and I don’t foresee them coming off very easily. That is awesome once you get it on the piece, but it makes it difficult to apply. With a decal, you can put it on the piece and slide it around a bit until it is straight and in position. That is out of the question with the stickers. Once it is on the piece, it isn’t sliding. With something large like a flag it isn’t a problem, but I found it difficult to center and straighten the roundels on something like an infantry piece or plane wing. I applied them using tweezers. I took them off using a wooden skewer to scrape up a side of the sticker to peel it off the piece. I was afraid that the sticker would pull up some of the paint, but that didn’t happen. It came off cleanly, but it required some scraping with the skewer, which might scratch your paint job.

      They are thicker than I-94 decals, but not bulky or unsightly on the piece.

      Price: I didn’t pay for these. John said they are $10 for two sheets. (The two sheets I have? or Two copies of what I have right now?) Everybody has a different price level that they are willing to buy A&A accessories at, so it is really your call on whether or not the price is a pro or con.

      Verdict: I prefer decals because they are a lot easier to apply and adjust. However, there are not decals in every design that we customizers might need. So, in situations like the Union Jack, RAF roundel, ANZAC roundels, etc, these would definitely work. The small ones are difficult to apply, but that’s just a hassle, not a dealbreaker. I would shy away from the small sizes of the very complicated designs like the Kiwi roundel or Union Jack, as they look bad in my opinion. Stick with the flags or simple designs like the RAF roundel.

      Thanks John!

      posted in Customizations
      Spitfire38S
      Spitfire38
    • RE: Found Union Jack Stickers

      I am away from home for a few days, but when I get back I will let you know. I can post an image of the sticker sheet with pieces for scale. Not all of the stickers are of a usable size, but I’m sure that he could print a sheet of one size that would maximize the number of stickers you could get on a sheet.

      posted in Customizations
      Spitfire38S
      Spitfire38
    • RE: John Brown's 96x48 Global 1940 Waterproof Metal Map

      Very cool! Since the Chinese and ANZAC will be done next, you’ll have something to face off against the Japanese.

      posted in Customizations
      Spitfire38S
      Spitfire38
    • RE: John Brown's Painted G1940 Set - by Spitfire38

      Thanks! These photos make it easier to see the true colors.

      posted in Customizations
      Spitfire38S
      Spitfire38
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