Posts made by Spitfire38

Gosh, Western Europe… I need to hold it for good  :roll:

I won’t be able to get to J3 until Friday…I’m sorry, but I’ve got a lot of school work as well as “work” work, so I’ll be busy all tomorrow.

Thanks for the pics!! I love em. I think I’m going to do a dirtied/brown-washed desert sand scheme and also a grey/brown scheme. I’ll get to painting next week.

I’m going with the standard 9 cities for victory. That’s the usual rules…

Very well, it seems that I will paint the FMG Italian ground forces next! I will have to do some research on color schemes and practice priming some of my other pieces before I spray my purchased FMG ones. I am slammed this week with school and work, so I will probably not be posting any news for a few days. I’ll let you know if I get any work done.

Well I hope you have a great time and good New Year!

Russia has reared its ugly head  :evil: I only hope G3 staved off the various attacks haha. I’m content with the results, although Egypt was a bit dicey and nerve-wracking!!

As I saw on another thread, “may the dice be fair!”

–Noncombat–
SZ12 FTR to Algeria, BMBR to Germany
West Europe plane to Eastern Europe
Belorussia FTRS to Eastern Europe
4 INF from Germany to Eastern Europe

–Income–
  2 IPCs
+37 IPCs

39 IPCs

–Placement–
4 ART, 3 INF, 1 FTR in Germany

endG3.AAM

Egypt

A:Rolls: 1@2 1@3; Total Hits: 11@2: (4)1@3: (2)
D:Rolls: 1@3; Total Hits: 11@3: (2)

SZ6
Attacking with 2 SUB
Defending with 1 damaged BB

A:Rolls: 2@2; Total Hits: 12@2: (3, 1)
D:Rolls: 1@4; Total Hits: 01@4: (5)If he gets hit first, disregard your BB hits

Egypt
Attacking with 1 INF,1 ART,1 TNK
Defending with 1 INF, 1 TNK

A:Rolls: 2@2 1@3; Total Hits: 12@2: (2, 5)1@3: (4)
D:Rolls: 1@2 1@3; Total Hits: 11@2: (3)1@3: (3)

G3

Purchase
37 IPCs
-35 IPCs (3 INF 4 ART 1 FTR)

2 IPCs

–Combat Moves–
Southern Eur to SZ12: 1 FTR (3)
Germany to SZ12: 1 BMBR (3), 1 FTR (3)
Germany to Western Europe: 3 INF, 1 FTR (1)
Eastern Europe to Belo: 2 INF, 1 TNK
Libya to Egypt: 2 INF, 1 ART, 1 TNK
SZ5 to SZ6: 3 SUB
Germany to Belo: 2 FTR (2)

–Combat–
SZ12
Attacking with 2 FTR, 1 BMBR
Defending with 1 CRSR, 1 DD

A:Rolls: 2@3 1@4; Total Hits: 22@3: (3, 5)1@4: (2)
D:Rolls: 1@2 1@3; Total Hits: 11@2: (5)1@3: (3)

West Euro
Attacking with 3 INF, 1 FTR
Defending with 1 ART

A:Rolls: 3@1 1@3; Total Hits: 13@1: (5, 1, 3)1@3: (5)
D:Rolls: 1@2; Total Hits: 11@2: (1)

Belorussia
Attacking with 2 INF, 1 TNK, 2 FTR
Defending with 1 INF

A:Rolls: 2@1 3@3; Total Hits: 32@1: (5, 5)3@3: (2, 3, 1)
D:Rolls: 1@2; Total Hits: 01@2: (6)

Egypt
Attacking with 2 INF, 1 ART, 1 TNK
Defending with 2 INF, 1 TNK

A:Rolls: 1@1 2@2 1@3; Total Hits: 11@1: (3)2@2: (1, 4)1@3: (5)
D:Rolls: 2@2 1@3; Total Hits: 12@2: (6, 3)1@3: (2)

SZ6
Attacking with 3 SUB
Defending with 1 BB

Surprise Attacks
A:Rolls: 3@2; Total Hits: 13@2: (2, 3, 4)
Assuming he doesn’t immediately die…
D:Rolls: 1@4; Total Hits: 11@4: (3)

Yes, I want to use it as an intercept. But it can still move on G3- the rules state that fighters participating can’t be in any other battles that turn…which means that if there was an amphibious assault or a ground battle, my plane could not participate. But it does not tie up my plane for MY German turn-just for the duration of the US turn. This is how it is in the other games as well (G40, Europe, etc).

If you can prove the rules otherwise, then I will keep it grounded.

Thanks!

attachment…

endJ2.AAM

Saikang taken with no causalties, Burytia taken with 2 INF causalty

–Noncombat–

Saikang to China: 1 BMBR, 2 FTR
Burytia to Manchu: 2 FTR
SZ61 to SZ60: 3 TT
SZ52 to SZ47: 1 SUB
SZ60 to SZ36: 1 SUB
SZ52 to SZ 60: 1 AC, 2 FTR, 1 BB, 1 CRSR

–Placement–
SZ60: 1 DD
Manchu: 3 TNK
Japan: 1 INF, 1 TNK

–Collect–
I didnt realize I had 34 IPCs, not 32, so i actually have 3 left over.
3+35=38 IPCs

Japan 2

42 IPCs
-41 IPCs (4 TNK, 1 INF, 1 DD)

1 IPC

–Combat Moves–
China to Saikang: 5 INF
Manchu to Burytia: 2 INF, 1 ART, 1 TNK
FIC to Burytia: 2 FTR (3)
SZ34 to Saikang: 2 FTR (3)
Kwangtung to Siakang: 1 BMBR (2)

–Combat Round 1–
Saikang:
Attacking with 5 INF 2 FTR 1 BMBR
Defending with 2 INF

A:Rolls: 5@1 2@3 1@4; Total Hits: 25@1: (4, 4, 4, 4, 2)2@3: (2, 1)1@4: (5)
D:Rolls: 2@2; Total Hits: 02@2: (3, 4)

Burytia
Attacking with 2 INF, 1 ART, 1 TNK, 2 FTR
Defending with 4 INF

A:Rolls: 1@1 2@2 3@3; Total Hits: 41@1: (1)2@2: (5, 1)3@3: (5, 2, 2)
D:Rolls: 4@2; Total Hits: 24@2: (5, 2, 2, 6)

@Tall:

Spitfire38,

I couldn’t help but notice you had left the entire bases for your Nationalist Chinese Infantry a solid blue. Were you going to eventually paint the
N.C. insignia on their bases? Here’s a pic of the ones that “Allworkandnoclay” painted for me. I hope it might assist you in your painting. Keep up the good work.

“Tall Paul”

Yes, I’ve looked at his work extensively. I’m thinking of trying the roundel bases on a few infantry for each nation… I don’t know if I have the skill, but it should come with practice. I’ll let you know if I ever do that.

@Rorschach:

@Spitfire38:

@Rorschach:

@Spitfire38:

I’ve thought about it before…do you think it gives a better product in the the end, and does it make the paint job easier or more professional? If it’s just for protection in the end I probably won’t, but let me know what you think of it because I’ve seriously considered it before!

I definately think using a flat base coat makes the paint job a little bit easier, in addition to making the paint a little bit more durable…  It gives you a better surface to work with instead of the semi-slick plastic (or slick gloss paint if you make that mistake like I did the first time when doing a base coat!) and I find the paint goes on better.

For the small cost (I buy Krylon Fusion flat spray paint … used an off white for my AA50 pieces) of about $7 you can do your entire set and then some.  Just if you do, make sure you do 2 light coats rather than 1 heavy coat or you’ll lose all the detail and end up with a mess.

I also strongly recommend a clear coat on top when you’re finished to protect the paint job.  Any matte varnish spray can will do the job (or satin/gloss if you don’t like the matte/flat look).

Wow, $7 for a whole set! I’ll look into it- sounds like it’s worth it. Thanks for the advice.

Don’t forget to vote on what you see painted at the top of the page.

Remember, that’s $7 for one spray can of Krylon Fusion (at least that’s the price at the WalMart here).  You still have the other paints, and then a clear coat on top.  But yes, one can should prime your entire set.  Or pretty close to it.

I already have the paints and I already use a matte spray on them when they are done, so yes, just the primer is left. I’ll be sure to pick some up!

@majikforce:

Great job Spitfire!  Really cool idea and i love the pics.  Just a couple things I have learned painting.  I also use the acrylics and I have found that after washing the pieces a light primer coat helps a lot.  My pieces get a lot of handling and peeling was always an issue.  I don’t use the infantry pieces from the game so when I buy unique infantry sets to paint sometimes I get variations in the plastic used so a primer coat is a must.  I also use a matte clear coat to protect. (sometimes 2 coats)  I have found Krylon is the best.  I love to use the pieces when we play but some people don’t like them when we play.  They say its to hard to distinguish the different powers.  So when planning a paint scheme maybe take this into consideration.  I don’t always go for the authentic look.  I like to have a scheme that is easily recognizable and cool to look at.  And most of all have fun doing it!!  I also run into problems with storage.  As of now I store all my painted pieces with the regular ones in the boxes from Global.  I have the boxes compartmentalized into unit type but I find that the outer extremities of the infantry (guns, arm, hands etc) tend to peel more easily.  Any suggestions for storage I am all ears.  Keep up the good work!

Well you’re the 2nd person recommending primer, so I’ll have to try it! The guy I play with most often knows exactly which pieces are which because I share them with him as I’m painting and he knows what they look like, but with other people I can imagine it becomes a pain. My painted pieces are more just a personal project of mine because I don’t really have anyone to play with that often, but yes, I take that into consideration and try to make things color coded with insignias.As for storage and protection, I find that spraying them with an matte enamel spray afterwards helps the most. There isn’t much you can do to prevent chipping and such, especially on the infantry. I will post pictures of my storage boxes I made later. Its basically a box(es) from Target lined with felt and divided with balsa wood; not practical for transportation, but again, I don’t transport them much and it makes the storage look professional.

Thanks for the feedback all!

@dangermouse650:

Great job there man  :-) Keep up the good work

Thanks!! I appreciate approval…it keeps me going sometimes  :-)

@Tall:

Really nice work!

And IMHO it’s very important to have FUN, too! A reference to you “Rambo-san”.

Keep up the good work.

“Tall Paul”

Thank you as well- I  couldn’t have said it better. In my 1942 set I painted a hot pink Panther/Tiger whatever it is, with a flower on the engine and flames on the treads. Fun!

@Rorschach:

@Spitfire38:

I’ve thought about it before…do you think it gives a better product in the the end, and does it make the paint job easier or more professional? If it’s just for protection in the end I probably won’t, but let me know what you think of it because I’ve seriously considered it before!

I definately think using a flat base coat makes the paint job a little bit easier, in addition to making the paint a little bit more durable…  It gives you a better surface to work with instead of the semi-slick plastic (or slick gloss paint if you make that mistake like I did the first time when doing a base coat!) and I find the paint goes on better.

For the small cost (I buy Krylon Fusion flat spray paint … used an off white for my AA50 pieces) of about $7 you can do your entire set and then some.  Just if you do, make sure you do 2 light coats rather than 1 heavy coat or you’ll lose all the detail and end up with a mess.

I also strongly recommend a clear coat on top when you’re finished to protect the paint job.  Any matte varnish spray can will do the job (or satin/gloss if you don’t like the matte/flat look).

Wow, $7 for a whole set! I’ll look into it- sounds like it’s worth it. Thanks for the advice.

Don’t forget to vote on what you see painted at the top of the page.

I added a poll at the top of the page on which pieces you would like to see painted. Let me know!

All right guys! I finished the Chinese infantry.

I finished the boots with a straight black. I used a thin point brush to get in between the legs on the inside of the boots. Afterwards I had to go back over the base a little bit to cover up any stray lines from painting the boots. That’s why it’s important to make sure you can replicate a pretty similar shade again when you first mix the base.

Then I just fixed up the uniforms with a straight dark green (that’s another bonus of using 2 coats of different colors… you can touch up with one straight color without mixing it and it doesn’t look bad)

For the base, I needed a green, but more of a bright, pastel colored green, not a dark forest or army green. So I mixed some blue and yellow (come on, back to the basic color wheel- 1st grade  :lol:) until I found a shade I liked. Then you just apply it to the base and wick off any extra that sticks over the top of the side of the base with your finger.

Then you wait for it to dry, sit back, survey your pieces, make any changes you want, and be proud of yourself!  :-D

Here are the pics of the final infantry.

One of those guys has a face defect-poor guy. must be hard missing half your jaw.
Every once in a while you have to have some fun as well. So here is an infantry piece with some “accesories”… Taliban infantry, Chinese Rambo…take your pick. haha. He looks a little messy, but I fixed him up later, don’t worry!

Hope you guys found this helpful! I’ll be doing some more pieces in the near future.

@dangermouse650:

Hopefully the link works, i didn’t paint the infantry, wasn’t till i found this site and seen allwork and virococha’s painted sets that i gave the infantry a try….
http://www.mediafire.com/?f6suo1dcadamm

Nice work! I like it.

@Rorschach:

I notice you don’t use a primer first.

I would personally highly recommend, after washing the pieces and letting them dry, using a Krylon Fusion, flat spray paint (black is my preference, though white would be fine as well) as a primer before painting.

The Krylon Fusion brand adheres to plastics and using a flat primer/paint beforehand provides a better surface for your acrylics to stick to (less chance of them rubbing off/chiping later on).

I’ve thought about it before…do you think it gives a better product in the the end, and does it make the paint job easier or more professional? If it’s just for protection in the end I probably won’t, but let me know what you think of it because I’ve seriously considered it before!

Lose the DD, keep the subs

make that EEU to UKR just 1, cause you killed the other. and take the arty with the 2 inf from southern europe. And I took back Norway…so really I have 37 IPCs now. (1+36 income)

gambitvsspitfireendG2.AAM