Posts made by sgtwiltan

Been looking to pull the trigger on one but Shapeways uses a more professional $40K+  3d printer and the product does not work well in
A&A board game scales. Possibly for larger A&A minis but you’ll have to spend a lot of time for cleanup to get rid of the layer striations.
You might create larger subassemblies as separate pieces but that would be so cleaning them up would be easier and still have to devote a lot of time for cleanup.

Then again there is the FORM1 at http://formlabs.com/
This uses stereo lithography and special resin at over $3K for just the machine.
Much nicer but the resin is even more expensive than ABS or PLA and it looks as if there is more waste resin as well for support
structures.

Based on previous Axis and allies games, the unit equivalents are Corps level units rather than regimental or divisional in scale.
I prefer more individualized sculpts but WWI was an anachronously fought war.
Many men died as in the American Civil War due to old tactics being used against modern weapons.
Cavalry was more important and more widely used than Tanks and should have been included but they were already found to be
better used as Dragoons rather than the napoleonic Cavalry who fought on horseback.
The machine guns and nonlinear tactics made that form of warfare obsolete and costly.
Expect this game to be mostly an infantry slogging match with not much maneuvering if history is to be repeated.
Even though there were were other newer arms of service, it was the infantry that made most of the gains rather
than the more mobile services. Stormtroopers broke the deadlock and gained miles of new ground in the west rather than
the yards prior.
Might not be as exciting as the WWII version as the use of new technology (those used in WWII) were just being developed.
Fighter planes began as observation planes with armed observers and then developed into dedicated fighters and bombers.
Naval combat should be more exciting as this was truly the age of the Capital ships before being eclipsed by Aircraft carriers
in WWII.
I wonder if the naval battle board could be made like the children’s Battleship game. The land game is going to be nothing more than
an attritional dice roll fest so I don’t see any exciting mechanics there. I also wonder how much Politics play into the game as well as
supply since the scope of the game consisted of which side had more resources to throw into the fight.

A-D-D and motivation are the determining factors. A specific group of ten can take months from scratch.
But it can also take a couple weeks if I’m really excited by the subject. I like the A&A units since I can mostly
just add details rather than start with conversions for scale, measuring plastic and sanding or shaping. An already built base
cuts the time easily by half as the shape is already there. That is why I’m excited by all the new A&A and HBG pieces
since the base models also make the models much more uniform in dimension. Like I said motivation is the biggest factor on how productive I am.

Nice till for the IPCs.

Me likey lots.

Herr Wittman,

I have added a spare wheel to that model and the additional frontal armor.
The problem with the model is that it takes 2 6Rad to make 1 8Rad.
The size is also a bit smaller but it works for me. I’m only making 6 for myself for the heavy schwadron
and might use the leftover parts from the second 6Rad to make some 222 for the leichte schwadron.

I promised a while ago to show some of my scratchbuilds for the original A&A.
Well, they are here. I’ve also added some work which grew out of the desire for more accurate pieces in
comparison with aftermarket models by HBG and OOB models from later A&A versions.
The new pics are on page 1.

Look for gambling supplies. If it’s what I think it is, roulette table oprators use it to push and pull chips from the different lines on the table.
http://www.pokergamingproducts.com/deluxe-roulette-set-with-chips.html
or
http://www.pokergamingproducts.com/Craps-Dice-Stick-36-inch.html

Those are the ones I built out of sugar and chocolate. They are for snacking.  :evil:

Sanding and rounding your edges will give you the benefit of less clothing snags as well as aesthetics.
The other advantage of rounding the edges is that you get less nicks and would need to re stain less.
You could also build your compartments out of balsa or basswood and get exactly what you want.

It’s really too bad you didn’t make the side piece so that it would fit into the inner portion of the main board where the map is.
You could even make a simple cover to keep the pieces inside from falling out all over the place. It’s a great idea you have there though.

I will be converting my HBG FW190s into Ki43s as the OOB FW190s are perfectly fine to me and scale well with the other pieces.
Like LHoffman, I prefer to use OOB units when possible since I already have the pieces. I’m thinking also of using the B25s as
USAAF Tac bombers by converting them into A20 Havocs since the land forces didn’t use Navy Planes.

It’s the same as the American version.
It’s the national recognition symbol painted on tanks and on wings of german aircraft in WW2.
It’s what RB has on the shirt on the second version.

Political correctness is a fact of life nowadays.
Good design but at least you removed the swastika.
The SS and the swastika however are a fact of WW2 as is the Japanese meatball
who my grandfather fought against. History is written by the victors so should we
censor all the realities of the war? West Germany and Japan contributed to the only
War I was involved in and their contribution did not include any troops. Germany
provided Motor T assets of which my unit benefited in the form of an extra German version of
our 5 Ton. The Japanese didn’t even go that far and only provided VCRs, Radios and other
electronic forms of entertainment. Those 2 countries are harsh about their parts in WW2 and
are making sure they do not turn to the path that destroyed their countries in that war.
Some people may get offended by your logos but barring the swastika, I think your design is
harmless enough in context. If you do not wish to have any controversy, leave out the offending
symbols. My family lost members to Japanese atrocities in WW2 but today I work with Japanese
colleagues regularly and am a black belt in a japanese martial art. I even brought a half Japanese
girl to my senior prom even though I knew my grandfather would have disowned me for doing so.
Too bad the game has all those links to what happened in WW2 but A&A IS A GAME about that war!!
Ignorance about the symbols of the war is as bad as Nazi propaganda and the burning of books to me
since I would rather have the truth, no matter how ugly be truly represented rather than swept under
the rug like it never happened. We were the victors that brought down Hitler, Tojo, and Mussolini so we have the
right to take their symbols as war trophies instead of glorifying them as some groups do nowadays.

@Viracocha:

@sgtwiltan:

It’s been weird warm here in NC. 71 Saturday and 73 yesterday. Almost had to turn the AC back on.

Why do you have to be that way?  That’s just spiteful.

Love those mods Sgt!  Wow… it’s gonna take a steady hand and trick brush.

NC Weather!! That was last weekend. It snowed the following Friday.  !!!

Thanks V, and those are just the current models.
The HBG Stuart can be made into more variants with a bit more work but the hull is just fantastic.
What is with the HBG pieces? They have great and fantastic hulls and equally horrible turrets.
It’s like the sculptor for the hull is not the same as that of the turret.
Their M18 Hellcat is the only exception I’ve found to be great all around but it has a telephone pole for a gun.

Stuarts for Pauls A&A Army

HBG Stock Stuart in Green, Marine M3, Army M3A1, and Commonwealth Stuart Honeys

It’s been weird warm here in NC. 71 Saturday and 73 yesterday. Almost had to turn the AC back on.

Yeah, can’t wait to see what you do with them. Judging from your detail on ships, they might be hard to let go after you paint them.
Check out track link or missing-lynx for painting ideas. Of course you’ll have to translate them to 1/285th or 1/300th scale from the original 1/35 scale
models.

That’s what I hate about acrylics. You end up wasting a lot that doesn’t reconstitute like enamels. It does have a much better flatness for a surface.
The advantage of blending with enamels can also be it’s downfall when you need color separation. Each coat has to dry enough so I would do large batches
so that by the time I came back around to the first figure, the coat is pretty much dry. The other advantage though with acrylics is you don’t need to worry about the fumes from the thinner. I’ve heard so many airbrush problems and the PITA setup cleanup process that I’ve only gotten the spray can type
airbrush and have not even used them after 2 years. Model masters spray cans and Krylon Camo sprays have been pretty good for me. I’ve not yet used
Krylon camo on such small pieces as A&A game pieces though. Paint and brushes are a whole investment in themselves.

Yup. I added more details to my 105mm prototype. Don’t tell Paul. 6 more steps. I’ll post on the nest update.