Posts made by robert t

there is a reason the company is referred to as “Has-borg”.

It consumes smaller companies and assimilates their products.

Every large company (and there aren’t that many independents)  is profit driven today. The customer’s wishes are secondary.

This product will succeed/fail as a result of a younger generations interest.
WWII is another generation removed from being well known/remembered.
Just as WWI, the Boar War, the American Civil War before have now been remembered by history enthusiasts and wargamers.

Thanks MR, it was also because I had all the bits needed just sitting in a box.

If it catches on, I’ll move to Anniv. or 1942.2 and use the extra 1942.1 pieces as needed in those games.

I’m not a huge fan of unique/individual sculpts in the first place.
So getting 1941 for the sculpts isn’t appealing to me.
(I like the Pac. 1940 1st ed. ANZAC sculpts over the 22nd ed. ones-except the infantry)

To each their own.

The great thing about A&A is both sides need to roll low.
This, to a great degree, negates bad dice.
If the dice keep coming up 5-6’s, then this will effect both sides the same. Misses.

With all games using dice, there is a probability of skewed results.
This is why if you need a territory, put a lot more than needed into the battle.

I did get the sense you liked the vertical alignment when naming territories. It does make things easier to read and nicer to look at.

There were just a few instances where “bending the rules” might help with seeing IPCs clearer.  :-D

Fonts are tricky, too many options. What about reversing the fill/stroke so they are the same font just outlined with no fill?

Very nice, interested in seeing the printed version.

A couple of things to consider before printing though.  :-D

1. PUT “Southeast Mexico” and “Central America” names in the sea zones and the IPC numbers on the land.
       It will be consistent with everything else done and easier to read.
       “West Indies” number could also go on the other island.

2)Venezuela’s number could be moved to the top right corner  so it is also on land.

3. Just cosmetic points: Scotland “2” could be nudged left a slight bit to be totally on land, lower Novgorod/roundel/number to be inline with Achangel and nudge left a bit
       (Leningrad might need to be lowered too), Denmark lowered slightly so the “2” shows clearer.

4. Mongolia doesn’t have the “beige” circles in the territories like other neutrals do.

5. This is just me. The capitals have stars but it might be nice t have "Germany, France,UK,… in a larger font size or even a different font.
       Like I said, just me.

This is an amazing map which will really pop once the pieces are placed on. Great choices in colours and creating that period feel.
The extra room will definitely help when playing.

smart, that would work and leave you with UK markers if needed.

Will remember this if I need more of any country.

I will use roundels from my  Classic spare parts game(s).

Agreed, but my 11 year old might find it enjoyable and not too long time-wise.

Doubt he’d take to Global 40 right out of the gate. :-o

https://www.boardgamegeek.com/boardgame/55829/axis-allies-pacific-1940/trading?status=hasparts

https://www.boardgamegeek.com/boardgame/1262/axis-allies-pacific/trading?status=hasparts

I’d PM people and ask.

BGG “has parts” section of an A&A game with them in it?

I thought I’d just put adhesive dots over the original numbers and renumber the ones that have value.
I see that not all territories have IPCs.

As for pieces, I thought I’d be safe doubling up and then using chips.
It is the 1942 map, so chips are a must. Don’t know what they were thinking making such a small map.
Guess it was the first of the cut backs/saving money games.

Like I said, it  is a project to see if the kids like A&A.
I don’t think it will last if they like A&A. Probably go  Anniversary or 1942 2nd.
I do like revised though, it was fun and fairly quick once you know the rules.

no elephant here.

I have extra copies of 1942 1st ed. and want to make a copy of 1941 from those.
Don’t see the need to buy a copy when I have everything already.

As to why, well, I want a short game which I can introduce to my kids.
Even a revised game will go on for a long time.
I heard 41 plays a lot faster.
Therefore, consider it a gateway to longer versions if it is a hit.
I believe that was its intended purpose anyway.

Pieces are sorted, double everything of the original 1941, just in case.
I’m now going over the map to renumber the IPC values in the 1942 1st ed. map.

whats a 46x24 map cost if you don’t mind me asking

Ah, I see. Then I’d recommend spray painting as it is faster and dries faster.
You would eventually need to touch up chips but with the new
sprays which adhere to plastics…

Interested to see the results.

Hit dice speed up the dice rolling process.
Each level is a different colour and only shows the numbers needed. So if you have four 1s, three 2s and one 4 attacking, you grab the appropriate dice and roll them all at once.
You can at a glance see what hit and what missed.
All game dice are suspect/unbalanced. This is balanced by both players using the same dice.
Vegas or Backgammon dice are balanced and truly random. The ideal for any game of chance. The corners are square as well.
Rounded corners make the dice look better when rolling as they move more.

Check Hilltop Pillbox videos on youtube to see hit dice in action.

Faster = time from lining up the dice to alter to using them in a game.

I’d like to to see anyone paint pips in a few seconds BTW.  :-D

I actually pondered painting in the pips.

In the end, using the deemed was faster. Even using 3 different tips so as not to remove the body material, it took 1 - 2 hours for 10 dice.
The 1 hits took longer as more paint had to be removed and the 4 hits took under an hour. I also sped up once I had the technique down.

Now, finding all the dice was where the real time was spent. I now have a “dice bucket” for all my large dice.
Thankfully Chessex has those containers for the small dice. :-)

Thanks, worked out very well for hit dice.

I picked up blue dice today and made the 4s.
Since it is for fighters and BBs, the colour worked well. (sea and sky)

A fast and inexpensive solution for getting battle dice IMHO.

I picked up another copy of 2nd edition from Amazons boxing day sale for &30 CDN.
You might keep an eye out for sales on major holidays like Memorial Day/the 4th of July/Thanksgiving/…

Thrift stores are also good places for deals as are local conventions.

Tabloid (11"x17") would save you a lot of work when assembling and aligning the colour copies.
It might run you a bit more but the work saving would be worth it.
I always have issues aligning sheets when assembling “proof” copies.

Looking forward to seeing the full map with pieces in place.
Please post pics so we can see the contrast.

With these dice, included in various A&A games, I think removing the paint helped rebalance the dice a bit.
The weight of the paint was removed from the 5-6 pips lightened those sides.
This countered the material loss from the 5-6 “holes” on those sides.

All in all it is a more balanced solution to the removal of material of just one side.
Hilltop Pillbox battle dice are probably the best solution as the “hit” symbols are painted on the surface and not inscribed.
I just don’t have the $75 to spend on them, hence my “poor man” solution.