Posts made by P-Unit

@LHoffman:

@P-Unit:

I printed and play on a Global 1940 2e map I heavily edited from an export of the TripleA 1940 map. I have it sitting under a piece of plastic identical in material to the post above, an anti-glare P-99. It works REALLY REALLY well for our group. Some pics are below. I can supply you a link to a huge psd Photoshop file if you like, or a png image file if you can’t use the Photoshop file.

I think this is pretty cool… I, for one, would love a link for this file. Nice job P-Unit.

Thanks, I’ll post it after I correct a couple of minor items.

I printed and play on a Global 1940 2e map I heavily edited from an export of the TripleA 1940 map. I have it sitting under a piece of plastic identical in material to the post above, an anti-glare P-99. It works REALLY REALLY well for our group. Some pics are below. I can supply you a link to a huge psd Photoshop file if you like, or a png image file if you can’t use the Photoshop file.

• My plastic sheet is 95" x 48".
• My Global map is 94" x 47".
• I ordered my print from “http://www.bigphotohelp.com/”. I chose the “Standard Matte” material, 7 mil, and the total price was $135.15 with shipping.
• My plastic sheet is about 1/4" thick, was purchased locally for ~$100, and I transported with a van.
• Whatever you do, maintain the X/Y ratio when resizing any map you plan on printing, otherwise you’ll get odd looking skew effect.
• This P-99 anti-glare plastic sheeting MUST be placed on the correct side facing down or you will get LOTS of reflections. The anti-glare only works if the sheet is placed with the correct side down.
• The little metal thingies you see in the pic below are neodymium magnets, holding the plastic down. They aren’t needed to keep the plastic in place but I keep them there to use for other game boards. You should be able to see a sheet of sheetmetal under my map. I have that there to adhere items to my table, like A&A victory city flags, or terrain for RPGs.

jluna1273, that is awesome. And I thought my magnetic victory city flags were cool!

Fantastic rooms!  Looks like great atmosphere for playing.

I’m very excited about the updated rules, but I’m not fond of the new map. In the closeup of the South America pic the text around the coasts and the graphics inside the territories are very busy and distracting. My group prefers a cleaner look. The extra graphics are interesting to look at, once, then they get our way during play. Just constructive criticism. :)

@jluna1273:

Any plans for a global version?

I sent them a Global version months ago but they haven’t published it.  I’ll post a link to my online version soon if they don’t post it.

There are no official bidding rules so the debate doesn’t even belong here.  Make up whatever China ruling your group agrees to, even if you agree to allow a Chinese battleship in the Caspian Sea!!  :-D

@vonLettowVorbeck1914:

I don’t think letting Germany go first in this setup would be devastating to balance at all.

Except for the ~1/3rd chance at a Russia takeover on G1!  Not good for tourney play, or non-tourney play.

If change were to happen I’d like AA to fire before every round, one attack per AA unit, similar to subs Surprise Strike round. Still, no combat move. Still simple and works well within the existing rules.

Flashman, any news from that dice maker?

Remember, this 1942 scenario needs to be completed within a reasonable tournament block allowance, something 1940 Global can’t do.  I’m sure this is why the number of units may need be as many as some were hoping, which is fine by me. I can’t wait to try the scenario with my group. I won’t comment on it’s balance until then.

@Flashman:

Would anyone also need 5 hit sided dice, maybe in black?
Also, what numbers are needed of each colour, as there’s usually a minimum order for custom made dice.
1914 has sold me on 10mm dice, but I’d be happy up to 14mm.
Don’t like the idea of national symbols, want these to be suitable for any game.
Maybe if they’re popular a number of designs for hits, such as medieval with swords.

• Yes, a d6 with 5 hit sides would be good, not only for A&A (jet powered fighters) but I’m sure there are other games that hit on 5 or less.

• My prototypes collection consists of: 30 x 1s, 30 x 2s, 24 x 3s, 20 x 4s. My group has used these dice in ~6-7 A&A games so far, ~4 global, ~2 1942. Most of our Global games have been with 4 or 5 players, but one was with 2 players. Our 1942 games have been 2 players and 5. We split the dice evenly between the 2 sides, so Axis receives 15 1s, 15 2s, 12 3s, 10 4s. The same for the Allies. This has been a good amount but occasionally the sides had to share dice for the large battles, but not often. Having played with these quantities I would purchase ~50% more of each die, assuming the cost wasn’t too crazy.

• I also would not prefer nation symbols for the hit sides. You would have to purchase 8-9 times more dice to play Global and that would be insanely expensive for most folks. And, as Flashman stated, it’s best to keep the symbolism generic so they can be used with other games.

Flashman, keep us informed on your research. I’m glad this may be taking off. EVERYONE in my Axis & Allies game group loves playing with these dice, and trust me, it’s NOT easy pleasing everyone in our gaming group. Lots of difference personalities and play preferences.  :evil:

@Flashman:

I’ve asked this site if they’d be interested in producing sets along these lines:

http://www.em4miniatures.com/acatalog/Custom_Dice.html

Thanks, let us know their reply.

@Flashman:

Amazon sell them in batches of 24, but you’d need to use black instead of green.

However after playing with 1914’s 10mm dice the 16mm versions now seem huge, especially rolling dozens at a time.
http://www.amazon.co.uk/s/ref=nb_sb_noss?url=search-alias%3Daps&field-keywords=blank dice
Has anyone tried burning designs into the dice with hot metal?

Unless you are the worlds faster etcher it would take forever to engrave ~100 dice.  Certainly not worth the cost in time. It took me several hours to just apply the labels.

Thanks guys, I’ll pass along the interest to the guy starting the other WW2 dice kickstarter.

Others, please post here if you are interested, I’m going to send him this thread so he can see the level of interest in dice like the ones I posted above.

A couple of months ago I completed a custom dice project that my group has been using for Axis & Allies games and some other games that utilize 1 and under d6 rolls, 2 and under rolls, 3 and under, etc. We’ve found these dice GREATLY speed up Axis & Allies combats and make the combats easier to run. There are 4 different colored dice, white, blue, green, and red.  White has one side with a hit symbol (the rest are blank), blue has 2 sides with hits symbols, green has 3 sides with hit symbols, and red has 4 sides with hit symbols. See the image below:

Here’s an Axis & Allies combat example using these dice.

In a A&A global game Germany is attacking the USSR with:

• 5 Infantry

• 3 Mechanized Infantry

• 6 Artillery

• 7 Tanks

• 2 Fighters

• 4 Strategic Bombers

Instead of rolling each of these unit types separately and looking at the numbers and then figuring out which numbers rolled under that units to-hit number, I instead collect up the following dice and roll ALL of them at the same time. I then only need to count the dice showing the “EXPLOSION” hit symbol. No need to look for certain numbers on some dice and other numbers on other dice. Just count the “EXPLOSION” symbols and you have your hit total.

• 5 Infantry (5 blue dice)<all 5=“” supported=“” from=“” artillery=“”></all>

• 3 Mechanized Infantry (2 white dice, 1 blue dice) <1 supported from artillery>

• 6 Artillery (6 blue dice)

• 7 Tanks (7 green dice)

• 2 Fighters (2 green dice)

• 1 Tactical Bomber (1 red dice)

• 4 Strategic Bombers (4 red dice)

All at once I roll: 2 white die, 12 blue, 9 green, 5 red.

Here’s what I did to create these dice:

• Purchased ~100 blank d6 dice

• Printed “EXPLOSION” symbols on transparent laser label paper

• Cut the “EXPLOSION” symbols out

• Stuck the cutouts to the blank dice

Unfortunately, the label stickers are slowly wearing off and I’d rather not have to always be checking all of my ~100 dice to see if any label needs replacing. Very tedious.

My question is, would anyone be interested in supporting a Kickstarter for these dice?  I’m sure they can also be used for other games that roll 1 and under, 2 and under, etc.  My group uses these dice for A&A and some home games I created.  I probably won’t be the one starting the Kickstarter. I contacted an author of a Kickstarter that’s creating WW2 dice for some other game and asked him if he would consider adding dice like mine to his Kickstarter. He said not for his current Kickstarter but he may start another one if there was interest. Would anyone support something like this?  I’m going to send this thread to the author of the original Kickstarter so he can gauge interest.

@Imperious:

Then print the version before w/o the images. Alot of people PM’ed me and wanted those pictures…for whatever reason

But that version doesn’t include the most recent changes you made.  :-(

Oh no, the dreaded background images are back.    :wink:

Any chance you can create a pdf with layers for these background images so they can be toggled on/off? I’d like to print this map out but not with background images please.

Guys, this is the global FAQ thread. Unrelated TripleA discussions should be in a different forum.

Awesome Imperious Leader. Do you use Photoshop to create your maps?  I just completed a monster global map in Photoshop, that I’m looking for a home for, and many of the objects are layers so they can easily be toggled on/off.

I’m surprised most folks like the backdrop images. They certainly look cool but during play I find they get in the way and wished they were gone. I’m looking forward to your v3 map, that seems like the one I’ll have printed out. We still use one of your AA50 maps that I printed out.