Posts made by Nowhere Man

*Condensed for Forum topic
@taamvan:

1941   2-3 hours
1942.2  2.5-4 hours
Classic  3-4.5 hours
Anniversary 5-7 hours more if you’re drinking
Global  7-8 hours during tourney, more in open play

all times are averages for games where people actively play and not argue or go out to smoke every 5 minutes

Where you getting the numbers from (the box or personal experience?). I mostly agree, but I can’t see Classic taking more time than 42.2, and a 42.2 game that lasts under 3 hours is only if someone quit early due to some really bad dice. My personal experience, I’d switch Classic and 1942.2 around, otherwise keeping the numbers in the time slots the same. I know you used the disclaimer of #Tourney for Global, but 7-8 hours is but a fraction of the time a typical proper “at home” game of Global would last.

@calvinhobbesliker:

Hmm, why is 1942 quicker to play? Is it just because it’s 5 players instead of 6+China?

That’s going to add to game time, there’s no way it wouldn’t… Italy (small as it is) is simply going to add more game time, even in a two-player game, because it’s an extra round of purchases, moves, combat, etc, etc… multiplied by however many turns are in the game… the more complicated China rules plus the more territories in eastern Europe will also add to game length over 1942.2… not necessarily by a significant amount (like Global compared to any other A&A game), but I would say Anniversary with the extra territories and extra nation will be at least the same amount longer over 1942.2 as 1942.2 is over 1941.

Having said that, once again, it might add an hour or two to gameplay over 1942.2, but like Wittmann stated, I’d personally still rather play Anniversary over 1942.2… its just a better rounded game.

I actually kinda agree with all three previous posts, including the OP, as they all make valid points. There is a clear evolution (not revolution) between each “modern” edition of A&A… 1941, 1942.2, Anniversary and Global… each version is cheaper, less-complex and shorter in-time to play than the next, which will appeal to different groups of people.

The thing about Anniversary, it’s a closer-kin of 1942.2 than it is to Global, which is really hands-down the most complex, biggest and longest-to-play version of A&A by a long shot (which kinda goes along with what calvinhobbesliker said), but it is still a step inbetween 1942.2 and Global (like CWO Marc mentioned). Obviously 1942.2 also has a pretty established user-base, both by affordability, playability and time on market (like zoooma mentioned).

My personal opinion, Anniversary is the end-all-be-all version of the Classic/1942 standard formula of A&A gameplay. Global is a beast of its own, and certainly the most detailed and rewarding version, but man, the cost and time-commitment of Global is massive compared to the Classic/1942 style of gameplay. Like calvinhobbesliker suggested, I can totally see some people (self-including) preferring Anniversary over 1942.2 because they do share such similar styles of play, but 1942.2 is cheaper and has an established base, and is quicker to play, so it will always be preferred by some I imagine.

@Bob77:

So on the HGB item description, oob doesnt really mean oob?
When i read oob, i think original thinner card board.

I can’t access their site at the moment, but in a nutshell, HBG offers different types of roundels… they sell the OOB sheets from the games themselves (exact same as if you bought the game), they also sell custom roundels that are basically the same size/quality as OOB ones, but with unique markings (like neutral country markers, or Italy with fasces instead of the tricolor), AND they sell the IMPROVED roundels (often with custom print, like Italian fasces or German Swastikas) that are a much thicker marker of sturdier material and easier to pickup… these are the expensive ones of the bunch, but they are qualatively superior to the OOB ones.

@GeneralHandGrenade:

@Nowhere:

I thought he was just trying to show how the aircraft movement-remaining tokens work… I didn’t think he was trying to showcase the Hawaii invasion scenario…

That is correct. However, if you watched the video to the end you will see that if you answered the question that I posed during the scenario you had a chance to win an awesome prize.

And I actually watched the video, but I guess I wasn’t playing close attention… oh well… oddly enough, I just placed a new order with HBG this weekend.

@Bob77:

What!!! Dont do it!!!
No offence to HGB, but those roundels are way too expensive.
You can buy global for twice that price and get the sculpts as well.
You only need chinese and union jack roundels to track income.
You could get spare roundels for major powers from 41.
You could probably find a few french italian and or anzac roundels on ebay for a better price.

Umm, my 2 cents

Ya, people are buying them for the quality, not the quantity… there is a SUBSTANTIAL quality difference in what HBG offers… they are of better material, and much easier to pick up. I’m planning on upgrading my tokens to the HBG ones after I recover from the holiday spending frenzy on my family.

@Midnight_Reaper:

Lack of cash hurts both ways, though - it takes a while to build a navy at 12 IPCs, whether it’s the UK or Germany rebuilding their fleet from the first turn battles.

Lack of cash hurts both ways, but what I was getting at, building a fleet from nothing (for Germany) is very expensive and easy to spot coming, while defending England from a Sea Lion doesn’t require a fleet, it only requires far cheaper ground units (a bunch of English soldiers is a lot cheaper than trying to build a big German fleet)… it’s far easier for England to build infantry than for Germany to build a fleet with capital ships transports AND the ground troops to fill the transports, when all England has to do is build ground troops to defend against Sea Lion… yes, Britain will need to rebuild their fleet at some point from initial losses, but if Germany is trying to go Sea Lion before Moscow in 1941 (which was the initial question I believe), the money situation far favors the UK over Germany… unless the UK player is just daft and doesn’t defend England while Germany builds a fleet. As zooma pointed out, the more realistic method for the Axis to win would be to eliminate Russia first, then, using the funds from a dead Russia, build a fleet to attack the western allies.

The price of a Risk game which ends-up giving you a bunch of tiny Napoleonic infantry that are too small, and wearing funny hats from the 1800s in pastel colors is a very poor choice to supplement A&A with… for the same price or less of a copy of Risk, you can buy an awful lot of proper A&A infantry from HBG, considering most infantry from HBG are in the 10cent to 20cent range.

I thought he was just trying to show how the aircraft movement-remaining tokens work… I didn’t think he was trying to showcase the Hawaii invasion scenario…

@SS:

Other option if you need to keep that 5 icp tank in game reduce Japan tanks to A2 D3 C6.

If you’re trying to be realistic with Japanese tanks, make them A2 D1 C10.

That’s about where they would be in reality to Japanese tank design and cost value.  :wink:

There’s a much simpler answer to China… instead of changing turn order and everything else… just allow the Chinese player to place the Flying Tigers where he wants on initial deployment, and my guess is they won’t be where they will be destroyed on turn-1 every single time Japan nukes them before the Chinese have a chance to use them once. Having access to the Flying Tigers for both offense and selective defense is critical to China, and almost never ever happens, because Japan ALWAYS kills them on turn-1 before China even moves once. This one minor change on setup changes the entire dynamic in China without people having to change turn-order or use selective bids.

Amazon sells flight stands perfectly suited for A&A as well…
https://www.amazon.com/Acrylic-Flight-Stands-Circle-Clear/dp/B01GW5I8XC/ref=sr_1_4?ie=UTF8&qid=1511359750&sr=8-4&keywords=flight+stands

@calvinhobbesliker:

Is there somewhere I can get the German trucks from Bulge? HBG is out of stock.

At this point, E-Bay is your best bet.

@warTorn:

I want it to be that cheap in Canada is what I want

Axis and Allies is more expensive in Canada to subsidize your free health care!

Very nice setup with those bins!

@Midnight_Reaper:

I figured I would point that out. I think it makes a difference in how you approach winning if taking Moscow does not net you the game, just some cash and territory value.

This also ties into the viability of doing Sealion as Germany - as I don’t think Japan is going to take Washington for the win…

It’s a good catch, my-bad I didn’t see that, but that doesn’t invalidate the fact that short of the UK player just leaving England open for invasion, this is STILL 1941 we’re talking about, and my point of income problems of just magically making a fleet appear out of thin air for Germany is very, VERY hard to do with the income levels of this game.

It’s a LOT easier for the UK player on a fixed income to defend England than it is for the German player on a fixed income to build a fleet in-being from nothing and have the forces to invade England without first securing income from territories Germany doesn’t already start with.

Sealion in-and-of-itself is not the problem here, the main problem with 1941 is, and always will be, the complete lack of a reasonable income to build expensive things you don’t start the game with.

Dirt cheap on Amazon… it’s under $13… how much cheaper you want?

And I just paid $80 for mine a few weeks ago… oh well… at least I have mine.

@vodot:

Seriously, freaking WinRAR!? For what

Nobody I know uses WinRAR to archive anything, I certainly don’t, I ZIP files if I want to archive something… no, I have WinRAR only to open RAR files that someone else archived, and nothing more.

@Argothair:

Historically, countries in WW2 tended to field about 500 infantrymen for every tank. In this board game, the ratio for the Axis is more like 2 infantry per tank! Obviously you can make allowances for what a “tank piece” represents – maybe a tank piece just represents a infantry division that happens to have an armored brigade – but I still think that the starting Axis forces are over-stocked with tanks at the beginning of the game.

Impossible to argue number ratios in a game that doesn’t specify how many men or how many tanks a unit actually represents… you can’t even have an educated guess, because there’s absolutely nothing (that I’m aware of) that says what any unit in Axis and Allies actually represents in manpower or equipment.