Posts made by Nowhere Man

Well that depends on what you consider you need and what you will and won’t put-up with reality-wise.

While 1941 does indeed have new sculpts not in any other version of the game, there’s a LOT of repeats for countries that never used said-equipment…

Let me clarify… 1941 has one tank model (IS-2) FOR ALL ALLIES… one fighter model (P40) FOR ALL ALLIES… one tank (Tiger) model FOR ALL AXIS… one fighter model (FW190) FOR ALL AXIS… so on, and so on.

So you’ll end up with British IS-2 tanks and Japanese FW-190 fighters for example. I’m not sure what you’re looking to get model-wise out of 1941, but I just thought you should know, not all the countries get sculpts of units they should even have in the first place (like German battleships made in Japan).

@CWO:

On the down side, they have quality-control issues like warped ship hulls and they’re out of production, which means that in terms of convenient availability there’s no contest: Europe 1940 2nd edition wins easily, with the Anniversary reprint being usable as a supplement to provide a few other unit shapes (though mostly of non-Italian origin).

What he said… good luck finding FMG Italians to begin with… much easier to get your hands on 1940SE Italians, which are unique Italian sculpts of the same quality as other OOB units. As for AA50 “Italians”, I think aside from the infantry and tanks, everything else is just German or Japanese equipment recolored in brown plastic… not very Italian at all.

Ahhh, there it is… wish this were stickied in AA50 like the other games map files are… I imagine with the re-release of AA50, more folks will be looking to reprint their maps for home use.

@Imperious:

Ok RAR is heresy. The worst thing to ever infect your computer. Once you download that stupid free program, it destroys every thing on your computer as it without your input CONVERTS every freaking jpeg you got into RAR for mat and you can never ever fix it. Just get CS3 and do your work in that.

I have WinRAR on my computer (the free version) and with any freeware, i’m always very cautious about auto-setups… there’s options to basically disable everything in WinRAR and have the program ONLY work with RAR files, which is exactly what I did.

I’m no fan of RAR… I don’t like the format, but sometimes you gotta deal with people that live by that, and if they have a file you really want that is RAR-compressed, you gotta do what you gotta do. If you get WinRAR, just make sure you do a customized install and disable the program from everything but RAR files.

@zooooma:

Hello.  I’m looking forward to trying this version, but have some questions:

1 - Is the “Optional Shorter Game” balanced (1 captured capitol to win).

I figure this version is probably balanced if it is nearly impossible for either side to recover from the loss of any capitol.

2 - Is Operation Sea Lion viable in this version?

That is, can it be done at all (given reasonable Allied play)?  Also, if so, can the Axis still win the war if Germany does take England?

Cheers!

1. You’re probably looking at giving this option as a quicker win for the Axis than the Allies… what this really spells out is “The Axis wins when Moscow falls”… for the Allies to take either Berlin or Tokyo will be more of a chore than for Germany to take Moscow.

2. I’d say no. At least not as a Kill Britain First strategy. Operation Sea Lion pretty much means you need Germany to purchase a fleet… the problem is the key-word “purchase”, which is pretty-much a non-existent thing in 1941. Money is very hard to come by in 1941, its probably the #1 factor that makes this game’s playtime much shorter than other versions because you can’t replace losses like you can in other games, and you can’t fundamentally change the nature of your nation’s setup with purchases (like turn Germany into a naval power).

@warTorn:

Why do these always show up as a rar file for me? Is it a Mac thing? I have the same trouble with Siredbloods setup charts and cash too! I absolutely want a copy of these!!!

Try a free download of WinRAR… should solve your problem.

@LincolnsTopHat:

Just curiously, how do you plan on getting it printed? I’ve been looking around, and so far most printing sites are almost as expensive as getting the game itself.

Oh, printing the map isn’t about saving money (unless it was 2016 and you were trying to “make” AA50 without spending $500+ on E-Bay for an out-of-print used copy of AA50).

TBH, I’d be surprised if you could print a map for under the price of the game… the purpose of printing the map is usually to make a BIGGER map that is a single piece without creases or separate board issues for a more enjoyable way to play the game (I have printed maps for all my versions of A&A… I like bigger maps without the creases).

If you’re looking to save money, by all means, buy the game and play on the board that comes with it… that’s the cheapest way to play AA50 (at least in 2017).

To be honest, I almost question why I even bought AA50… I mean I do love the game and I am playing it, but it almost feels like I spent  $80 for the new rulebook… lol.

I already had more than enough pieces from my other AA games (including Italy and China) that I don’t need the pieces that comes with the game, and I could print the map from the files on this site… of course it’s nice to have it all in a box (that’s kinda too big, lol), and I’m happy to throw my money at WotC to support them, but after I get around to printing the map (and using the armies I already had) I won’t be using most of what’s in the box! Great game though,  feels great to have AA50 after missing it first time around  (and I certainly wasn’t paying the  $500 cost on Ebay… I wonder how much they’re going for now?).

@Bob77:

Todays my b-day. Send them to me!!!

Oh, I’m terribly sorry… I missed your birthday… I would have sent you all my unoponed AA50 pieces, but now it’s the 10th, and your birthday is past… :-(

Sorry friend, I guess I’ll just keep holding onto them till I figure out what I’m going to do with them!

Combat move is to move into territories you wish to attack/take-over. If you wish to seize Karelia, you must move units INTO Karelia during the combat-move phase (in your example, you would move the german infantry and/or any other attacking units into Karelia).

In a nutshell, you’re using the combat move phase to more or less declare all your planned attacks for that turn, and yes, units (land/sea/air) will have to move into the intended zone to conduct said-combat.

@zooooma:

@LincolnsTopHat:

Any reason you can’t just insert the updated AAA rules? With cost adjustments I’m pretty sure there’s no real balancing issue.

Replacing all AAs with AAAs in the set up would likely affect the opening strategies.  I figure if AH/LH had made this update the initial unit placement would be modified.

The people I play with prefer to play with official version of the rules and tend to shy away from house rules anyway.

I am playing with official AA50 rules, but I did remove all the grey generic AA and replaced them with national AAA for looks if nothing else (actually, I’m using my units from my other A&A games for AA50, since they are more accurate anyways [like actual Italian ships instead of German ships for Italy])… to be honest, I’m playing AA50 but haven’t even opened my AA50 unit bags… still wondering what I will do with them.

@Caesar:

Does anybody know the actual size of units in Axis and Allies? I heard it was 1/72 but I am not sure.

There isn’t a consistent scale with A&A OOB units… aside from infantry roughly being 1/72, any other units would be approximations, not an actual scale size, because in OOB units, unit class trumps unit scale, flat-out.

For example, OOB tanks are all roughly the same size on your game board, including examples like Panthers, Shermans and Type 95 Ha-Gos…  three wildly different sizes of tanks in real life, yet all roughly the same size in-game… because they’re all tanks, they are all roughly the same size in-game. This applies to pretty much everything else in the game too… Battleships of vastly different sizes in real life are basically all the same length in A&A OOB units (such as comparing the Soviet and US battleships being the same size when in reality the size difference is massive). Fighters and Tac Bombers much the same, as the P-38 fighter would be larger than a lot of the tactical bombers in real life, but is in fact smaller in-game because CLASS TRUMPS SCALE in A&A OOB units.

HBG units are scaled more correctly than OOB, but still suffer somewhat (though less) from this scaling problem of class over scale.

Liberating a capital only allows the liberated power to start collecting income again as normal… you don’t get any money from anyone else for retaking a capital.

@evmiller:

Hey everybody, need some advise here.

Truthfully, I was a bit on the fence about getting this myself because I had some concerns how AA50 fits into the current lineup because it seems a bit “Last Generation” as far as rules. 1942 even has more territories. If I’m training up a group with 1941 to one day hopefully play 1940 Global, where does AA50 fit into this? and is it still worth it to pick up AA1942 se?

1942.se and AA50 are very similar… the differences are mostly flavor, though the core game experience is essentially the same.

1942.se and AA50 are both a big improvement over 1941 and both are more-or-less halfway points on the road to a full G40 game. AA50 is probably a little closer to Global in feel, if not specifically in rules refinements… for example a MUCH MORE involved China (in both territories and rules) and a separate Italian power, neither of which are features of 1942.se.

Should you get 1942.se? Really depends on what you’re looking for… I’d say it probably plays a tad quicker than AA50, it has a few rules refinements (though nothing massively drastic)… but I don’t think its going to fill a massive whole in your lineup… its really if you want a slightly faster game, are a completionist, and/or want more unit sculpts to use with other games… if you view 42se/AA50 as a step towards the ultimate goal of mostly playing Global exclusively, I probably wouldn’t bother with 42se if you’re looking to save money… if money isn’t a problem and you’re a completionist, go ahead and pick it up.

AKA: Hit Dice… there are already many options like this out there, including different colored dice for which are 1-hit, 2-hit, 3-hit, etc… both IWNGU and Young Grasshopper offer Hit Dice as an alternative to the national battle dice.

@Variable:

So have we come up with a solution to the purchasing problem? Or do I just bin it all and teach my 9 year old 42.2 or 50? I’d love to make this version work as it would be great for a pub battle. I’m tempted to do the +1 to every territory.

IMHO, 1941 is more a learning tool to introduce people to the game than a staple of the series. Once someone has the basics down, you’d be better-off moving-on to either 1942.2 or the new Anniversary Edition, then you don’t have to worry about “fixing” the money issue in 1941.