Best posts made by Midnight_Reaper

Midnight_Reaper

@Eisenhower Off-topic, but Eisenhower you really should claim your prize: 20th Anniversary Give Away, Winners for October 23, 2030. It’s yours for the taking…

-Midnight_Reaper

Midnight_Reaper

I regret that I only have 1 thumb/heart to give this picture.

-Midnight_Reaper

Midnight_Reaper

That’s good for you. My question to you is simple: are you asking a question of some sort or are you just giving us your take on 1942, Second Ed?

-Midnight_Reaper

Midnight_Reaper

Assuming anyone is still wondering, HBG has put their wrong color pieces up for sale, at blow-out prices: $2.50 to $2.00 for a set of 10 pieces, twice the usual amount. The wrong color sets came in for Axis Minors in German Grey and Italian Brown, Russia Early War in Russian Maroon, Japanese Sets 1 and 2 in Burnt Orange, and Neutral sets in Blue, Green, and Grey. Links below, and happy hunting!

And now you know.

-Midnight_Reaper

Midnight_Reaper

@mike-m said in Combat Pressing the Attack?:

Hi, first time player question, combat, how many “Times” can you “Press The Attack” per turn? Combat and only One Press, or Combat and Press the attack as many times as you wish? Thanks

In Axis & Allies Anniversary Edition, you can press the attack as long as you wish, until either the attackers or the defenders are destroyed or you decide to stop.

The option to Press an attack gives the attacker the option to quit combat early if the attackers decides to. If the attacker quits the attack before destroying all of the defenders, the attack “fails” and the attacking pieces will have to retreat in Non-Combat Movement. Any pieces, either attacker or defender, that were destroyed in combat before the end of the attack remain destroyed after the end of the attack.

Does that answer your questions?

-Midnight_Reaper

Midnight_Reaper

Thank you for posting your video. Two quick thoughts, worth what you paid for them:

Who said MB A&A (Milton Bradley (edition of) Axis & Allies) needed defending? Who was attacking it?
Your link doesn’t go to your video, it goes to your home page. Your video is available from your home page, but I was expecting to go to your video. Up to you what to do with your new-found knowledge.

-Midnight_Reaper

P.S. I don’t watch anybody’s video without what I think is an extremely good reason. So I didn’t watch yours. Sorry. Next time, transcript or go home. :-)

Midnight_Reaper

This is brilliant work!

-Midnight_Reaper

Midnight_Reaper

Re: Looking for a G40.2 set or all of the unique units
For what you want (everything that makes the 1940s games the 1940s games in the first place: mech inf, tac bombers, France, ANZAC, etc…), HBG will be pricy. You aren’t the first person to have this idea. So let me give you some places to look that might be off your radar: Amazon - normally pricy, but now is the time for sales. eBay - a bit of a crap shoot, but bargains to be had. And not just buying game sets - people part out Axis & Allies games all the time on eBay, so with patience and luck you might find just the pieces you want without paying for extras.

Finally, I suggest you look on BoardGameGeek (BGG). Look up Europe 1940 and Pacific 1940, either directly on their marketplace or look up the games and then see if they have one for sale at a price you like. With time and luck, you could walk away with with a set of the second editions for both Europe 1940 and Pacific 1940 for less than $100 for the both.

I wish you all the luck and patience in the world. But: good, fast, cheap - pick two. In this case: cheap, fast, convenient - pick two.

-Midnight_Reaper

P.S. If you run into issues with BGG, send me a PM and I’ll see if I can help.

Midnight_Reaper

@Panther I remember seeing eBay auctions for Anniversary from before they announced the re-release at $1500, before shipping.

In fact, it was the crash in price for Anniversary, after the reprint came out, that enabled me to get a decent price for a first-run copy (which was something I wanted to have because of the sculpt changes (minor though most were) from the first-run to the second-run. Around January 2018, somebody put up a first-run copy for $100 and about $10 shipping, buy it now. I jumped all over that. Shortly afterwards, I found a copy of Guadalcanal for $50 and with that, finished completing my collection.

But yeah, I remember seeing those prices and shaking my head.

-M_R

Midnight_Reaper

I don’t have much to say about everything you wrote about, but I thought you might be interested in some work posted a couple years ago. Fellow axisandallies.org forum poster Wolfshanze decided that in his version of Anniversary it would be better for the Italian units to be painted metallic silver and the ANZAC units to be painted a shade of nutmeg. His thread below lays out his thoughts and has some pictures he posted of how well his experiment turned out:
https://www.axisandallies.org/forums/topic/31369/the-great-italian-anzac-recoloring-project.

I hope that helps you out.

-Midnight_Reaper

Edited to correct the version of the game in question.

Midnight_Reaper

@kballenger141 Another great resource for A&A is BoardGameGeek.com. In the picture section of the page they have for Battle of the Bulge is a clear picture (looks like a straight scan) of the Allied Reinforcement Cards: North, West, and South. It looks like this: A picture of the Allied forces setup cards for Battle of the Bulge

-Midnight_Reaper

Midnight_Reaper

@Imperious-Leader said in Axis And Allies Anniversary Now Out Of Print:

They are stale leftovers. Nobody with a brain bought that silly game. The game progression is alot of killing with a few pieces left near the end because the reinforcements are too few. So the board is mostly empty spaces, which is not realistic.

You know, that has absolutely nothing to do with whether the game is still being made or not. If you don’t have anything nice to say, go roll some dice instead.

-Midnight_Reaper

Midnight_Reaper

@Imperious-Leader said in Pieces of World in War for A&A Global:

Oh no not this game…

Would you care to expand your thoughts on the matter? As a source of new units for A&A I agree they don’t pass muster. As a new idea on how to fight a WW2 combat game (with the casualty / attack battle board idea) I think they might be on to something.

-Midnight_Reaper

Midnight_Reaper

@juggernaut said in G40 MAP:

WHERE CAN I BUY A G40 GLOBAL MAP

You’ve got a couple options, besides just buying A&A Europe 1940 and A&A Pacific 1940 and getting the maps along with the rules and the pieces.

First, you can find them on eBay, as some people break up game sets and sell the pieces. You will need to use some patience, as there is no guarantee what you want will be available when you search for it.

Secondly, you can buy them second hand. If you are in the US, I recommend Historical Board Gaming. If you are in Europe, I recommend Stratak.

Historical Board Gaming has the following:
The boards from different Axis & Allies games, to include A&A Europe 1940, Second Edition and A&A Pacific 1940, Second Edition.

Stratak has the following:
The boards from A&A Europe 1940, Second Edition and the boards from A&A Pacific 1940, Second Edition, combined into a four board set.

I hope that helps.

-Midnight_Reaper

Midnight_Reaper

@barnee said in Churchill-Bradley Hypothetical Incident:

@CWO-Marc also interesting how Ike has his elbow parallel to the rifle as opposed to Churchill who has his perpendicular which offers better control. Churchill did see combat though against the Boers or at least I think he did. Got captured anyways

I’ve fired an M1 Carbine, as well as other weapons of war. Proper form for control of an M1 Carbine doesn’t take near the effort as proper form for control of an M1 Garand rifle. The .30 Carbine cartridge is a piddly little thing and it isn’t going to cause the carbine jump anything like the .30-06 Springfield going through the Garand.

Just my 2 IPCs,

-Midnight_Reaper

Midnight_Reaper

One color that some gamers have used for Canadian units comes from the old A&A Revised game. When that game was first released, the UK’s units were in a shade of green, lighter than what the US’s pieces were in. This color is sometimes referred to as seafoam green, sometimes as celery green. See below:

UK pieces in light/celery green, picture 1 (source: https://boardgamegeek.com/image/76919/axis-allies)

UK pieces in light/celery green, picture 2 (source: https://boardgamegeek.com/image/88496/axis-allies)

UK pieces in light/celery green, shown with in mass with pieces from other powers in mass (source: https://boardgamegeek.com/image/72417/axis-allies)

The same UK pieces in tan, to show the difference (source: https://boardgamegeek.com/image/1006268/axis-allies)

While “official” A&A pieces in this color were only made for the Revised version of the game (and not all of the Revised games came with green Brits, only the earlier editions), new pieces in (roughly) this color is available from Historical Board Gaming (HBG). Sort their battle pieces by color, and take a gander at what is available in what HBG calls celery green. You can also buy some of the old A&A Revised pieces in celery green, but it’s not cheap.

I hope that helps.

-Midnight_Reaper

Midnight_Reaper

@PiecesAndParts said in A&A Pacific different box variations.:

I didn’t find a pic of it in my google search but I once saw A&A Classic with French writing on the box for sale on ebay from a Canadian seller.

Of the pictures you posted, the only one I consider plausible is the French language edition of revised. I only find that plausible because I have also seen those French language versions of A&A Classic. I have never actually seen any boxes of A&A Revised in any language but English.

Krieghund knows what of he’s talking about. I know for a fact that the “1942” cover for A&A: AE 50 was a promo picture and that only “1941” covers were ever released. If he says they didn’t make “385” covers for A&A Pacific, I would take him at his word any day.

To me, it sounds like your collection is about as complete as mine, i.e. only missing a copy of the Jedko version of the NGD Axis & Allies.

The only thing I would ask about your collection would be to ask if you have all of the mistakes made across certain batches of games in manufacturing of those game:

A&A Classic, batches of US infantry pieces molded in German grey and in the same games batches of German infantry pieces molded in US olive green;
A&A Guadalcanal, batches of US cruiser pieces molded in Japanese burnt orange and in the same batch of games batches of Japanese cruiser pieces molded in US olive green;
A&A Anniversary Edition, first printing, a batch of some of the British tanks molded in Italian brown and included as Italian tanks.

I hope that helps you out (or, gives you something else to shoot for).

-Midnight_Reaper

Midnight_Reaper

I seriously doubt that the Red Army would have trouble trouncing the IJA in a second round. The major issues would 1) whether the Red Army could spare the manpower and supplies to carry out a proper fight against the IJA and 2) the possibility that the Red Air Force would lose access to their aircraft pipeline from the US: the ALSIB.

But I am sure that if the IJA made actual progress into the Soviet Union, it would be because the Red Army let them, so they could deal with more pressing issues.

-Midnight_Reaper

Midnight_Reaper

I think you have some very interesting ideas and I can’t wait to see what comes of them.

Refighting WW2 by starting all the way back in 1919? That sounds cool. How are you going to stop the victorious Allied Powers from just picking up where they left off and steamrolling a defeated Germany and Austria?

As for specific feedback…

On your planes (fighters, tac bombers, etc…) will you have early war and late war variants? The P-51 was a great fighter but wasn’t available in 1941. The P-40 was available at the time (and could hold its own when flown well) but was outdated by 1944. Since you could have war break out in 1935 or so, I would consider that.

As for the case of the French Strategic Bomber, I’ve always preferred the Farman F.220 and its descendants. It was a unique design and a four-engine bomber used in the strategic role in the early months of the war. HBG will sell you a 3D print of the F.222 model if you like:
https://www.shapeways.com/product/GTB2NBVVR/farman-f-222-220-1-700-scale-qty-1-french

My 2 IPCs,

-Midnight_Reaper

Midnight_Reaper

An earlier post, now with pictures…

I didn’t find a pic of it in my google search but I once saw A&A Classic with French writing on the box for sale on ebay from a Canadian seller.

A picture of the French A&A box:
Source

The only thing I would ask about your collection would be to ask if you have all of the mistakes made across certain batches of games in manufacturing of those game:

A&A Classic, batches of US infantry pieces molded in German grey and in the same games batches of German infantry pieces molded in US olive green;

A picture of the mis-molded American and German Infantry, along with other pieces from Milton Bradley A&A:
Source

Also, that whole thread of knp7765’s, Evolution of Axis & Allies pieces – Take 2, is an excellent primer on the pieces of Axis & Allies and their variations.

A&A Guadalcanal, batches of US cruiser pieces molded in Japanese burnt orange and in the same batch of games batches of Japanese cruiser pieces molded in US olive green;

A picture of the mis-molded American and Japanese Cruisers Source

A&A Anniversary Edition, first printing, a batch of some of the British tanks molded in Italian brown and included as Italian tanks.

A picture of the mis-molded British tanks in Italian brown Source

That should make my points crystal clear.

-Midnight_Reaper