If you are looking for just map boards, you’ve two options. One is to scout eBay for people parting out games they have. The other is to check historicalboardgaming.com for their stock of map boards: https://www.historicalboardgaming.com/Axis-Allies-Game-Boards_p_1969.html. Right now they have 1941 but not 1942, 2nd Ed available.
As for rule books, you can find them digitally on the Avalon Hill website: https://avalonhill.wizards.com/rules.
I hope that helps.
-Midnight_Reaper
The simplest and easiest tech rules I’ve seen (This assumes a five power game (e.g. A&A 1942)):
At the start of the game, all powers but the Soviet Union roll one die against the tech chart. What ever result they land on is now theirs, even in the case of repeats. Jet Fighters for all four rollers is possible, if statistically unlikely.
Short, sweet, random, and the tech is used for the whole game. Why not the Soviets? “Should not have purged your scientists, Stalin!” Real reason: letting the Soviets roll would allow the Allies to have an extra tech over the Axis.
One could even use this in the bid process: I’ll take the underdog, but I get (two rolls | targeted roll | I get to pick my tech) for doing so.
-Midnight_Reaper
P.S. Minor text edit.
@majordisaster I can’t speak for AADude, but I’m interested. I’ll send you a PM.
-Midnight_Reaper
@NinjaEskimo012 Sure thing, once everything calms down.
-Midnight_Reaper
This was a little before my time. So, I’ll give my “today” answers.
(7) Number of Players: 3-5 players.
(8) Categories / Setting / Period
(A.) HISTORICAL: (U.S.) Civil War
(B.) MODERN: WWIII
(C.) SCIENCE FICTION / SPACE: Battle of Alien Races
(D.) FANTASY: King Arthur Knights & Castles
(9) Chose one category: (C.) SCIENCE FICTION / SPACE
That’s what I have.
-Midnight_Reaper
@IKE:
What happened to the videos?
Use the links on the original post to get to his channel, then watch his Channel Update #1. It explains things.
Link for his Channel Update: www.youtube.com/watch?v=-2hV-wwlWas
-Midnight_Reaper
Another, even bolder way to avoid Infantry blobs - hard limits.
Let us build a system where infantry stats are the same, but a power can only have so many of them. I would think that using the same number for all powers would not work right, so different levels it is. The following numbers are just for example, using A&A 1942, 2nd Ed. In this case, I will take starting infantry and gave the allies x3 and the axis x2. This is most likely not the best system, just the one I came up with.
USSR: 21x3=63
Germ: 29x2=58
Japan: 25x2=50
Unit.K: 15x3=45
USofA: 14x3=42
Whether this is better system or worse would need to be tested. But I think it would give that rare synergy between historically appropriate and game balancing.
-Midnight_Reaper
@ipoulin My one piece of advice for playing World at War has to do with the fact that some special units (e.g. US Mech. Infantry, German Panzers) are only allowed to be had in limited numbers.
I would figure out how many of what and then set aside a reserve of pieces just for those roles. I would then mark those units in a distinctive way: many people use paint or a marker pen to add a bit of color, you could also set aside appropriate WaW pieces just for those roles.
If you do that, you won’t have “too many” of a certain unit and it’s easier to tell them apart from regular units.
Once, when I was playing a game, a few turn in:
German player: “How many US Mech Inf have you bought?”
US Player “All of the infantry I’ve bought have been Mech Inf…”
Good luck telling that apart!
-Midnight_Reaper
To add to the esteemed SS Gen had to say - stickers. Stickers and clear coat sealant. Take those blank dice that SS Gen showed us. Get some dot stickers (I will give an example below) in three colors of your choice. Color one, hits. Color two, misses. Color three, one per die. Use your color three dots to label how many hits on the die (1 or 3 or 7). I would use black for hits, white for misses, and red for the identification dot. So, a “4 hit” die would have 12 sides, with 4 color ones, 7 color twos, and one color three with a “4” printed on it.
The clear coat? After dots are applied and the color three dots are labeled, evenly coat the dice and dots with sealant to keep them together and stain-free.
Another 2 IPCs,
-Midnight_Reaper
@thrasher1 said in Axis and Allies MB edition: inquiry form included in the box:
{snip}
Question: I am not from US so please explain to me… why Civil War is so much ‘popular’ then the American Revolution.
I can’t tell you why it’s so dominate in the U.S. market. I can tell you why I’d rather see a new U.S. Civil War game (Civ War) than a new U.S. Revolutionary War game (Rev War).
Is that what everybody who prefers the Civ War to the Rev War thinks? Heck if I know. I can speak for myself alone.
-Midnight_Reaper
I think your best bet is going to be eBay. People buy game sets and “part them out” (split the game into its components and sell those components separately) on eBay. I’d search for either “axis allies 1942 second edition part” or “axis allies chips”.
If your searches come up empty, you can set up a search and then click “Save this search”. What this does is uses eBay to search for you: if a new auction comes up that fits your criteria, eBay will send you an email. The rest is up to you.
Good Luck!
-Midnight_Reaper
@Argothair Funny thing is, this is a example of an idea coming along early - Oztea’s Garrisons are mostly the same thing as A&A&Z’s Recruitment Centers. Main differences being that Garrisons can make more than just infantry and when Recruitment Centers make infantry, they do it at normal price. Of course, the fact that this thread is 10 years old may mean that it’s just you and me in here for now.
-Midnight_Reaper
There’s a decent page for it on BGG (https://boardgamegeek.com/boardgame/13016/white-death). I don’t know anything about it but if you have questions the fans there should be able to help you.
-Midnight_Reaper
@SS-GEN said in D12 Battle, or Hit, Dice:
You would still pick through dice looking for the number to hit number. I’ve played with colored hit dies. For me looking for a color die is easier. Oh black 1, green 2, blue 3, red 4, white 5 but just me.
You could do a variation on that, which would simplify the whole operation: black for hits, color dots on the misses for what number. Say “3 hit” dice with 3 black dots and 9 blue dots, “5 hit” dice with 5 black dots and 7 orange dots. You use a chart to correlate your hit numbers with the colors or you could write the number on all 12 sides. If all sides have ink, then none of the sides are off due to ink. Something like “4 hit” dice with 4 black dots, 8 pink dots, and a “4” written on all 12 sides.
Yet another 2 IPCs,
-Midnight_Reaper
@thrasher1 said in Axis and Allies MB edition: inquiry form included in the box:
@midnight_reaper I prefer a space game of alien empires.
What setting you had in mind?
Something like “Masters of Orion (I’m thinking more like the original computer game rather then the later board game.)” or “Twilight Imperium (which dropped its 4th edition a few years ago.)”. In short, let’s make aliens ALIEN. Do something wildly different from WW2 or WW3 or Humans vs. Martians vs. Venusians.
Use ground unit rules and amphibious attack rules from A&A for landing troops, attacking space stations, and dirt-side action. Use naval unit rules and associated amphibious attack rules from A&A for fleet-to-fleet combat and for getting troops where they need to be. Use air unit rules from A&A for fast-striking raiders and fleet defenders. Use the initiative system from Shogun (Yes, the linked game says Ikusa. The name got changed for a reprint in 2011) for suspense - who knows who will go first in the next round? Use the cities and roads building from Conquest of the Empire to build stations and wormholes, to support the fleet and move it around more quickly.
Something like that, I suppose.
-Midnight_Reaper
@wieguy said in Submersion:
@Midnight_Reaper ok. I get all that. Thanks. Funny, we interpreted the surprise element of the submarine as a one-time thing. We thought it wasn’t possible to surprise anyone in second or subsequent combat rounds. Thanks for the help.
You’re welcome. I’m glad I was able to help.
As for, “We thought it wasn’t possible to surprise anyone in second or subsequent combat rounds”, that is a common misconception with these rules. I don’t know of a better way to phrase it so as to make it more understandable. I will say that in both the first edition and the second edition rules, if you keep reading the rules for combat you get to a point where it says: “Step 6. Press Attack of Retreat - Combat rounds (steps 2-5) continue unless…”. That is on page 18 for both editions. As step 2 of a combat round is the Submarine Surprise Attack of Submerge step, it follows that any surviving subs can continue their sneaky ways until sunk or driven off.
Have fun and enjoy A&A!
-Midnight_Reaper
So, to use the rules in A&A Europe 1940, Second Edition, (AAE '40 SE) as an example - the current rules do not call for rolling from the 1 column to the 4 column on the battle board. That said, those rules do call out certain actions as taking place before others. The AAE '40 SE rule book (which is available, along with all the current A&A rule set, at avalonhill.wizards.com/rules), pages 16 to 21, describe how combat goes down in the new rule set.
Don’t assume that combat works the same as back in the Milton Bradley-era A&A. First, the bombing raids happen - with the counter-fire from AA Guns and Fighters taking places before the bombs start falling. Then, the Amphibious Assaults take place - first the naval battles, then the ground battle (assuming the naval battle is successful for the attacker). After that, the “pure” naval and ground fights take place. In the details for naval battles, either before an Amphibious Assault or just as a part of seizing a sea zone, submarine, their casualties, and their continued presence on the surface is taken care of in a special part of the naval combat round (assuming a destroyer on the other side of the fight hasn’t neutered the submarines’ special abilities).
But yes, in a single round of combat, every unit eligible to shoot can be rolled up all at once, provided there is a way to tell the infantry hits from the fighter hits. Whether that is important or not, and whether the people you are playing with would like to do something about that, is up to you and them.
-Midnight_Reaper
HBG recently announced a re-print of their game Amerika. The difference between the first print and the newly-announced second print will be the color of the pieces. To quote HBG: “… new Amerika Game with [T]an Allies, Black Germans, and Yellow-Gold Japanese” (Source)
What I elided out of that quote is that if you have a copy of Amerika and just want the new pieces, HBG will accommodate you, but only for a short while. The full quote goes: “Pre-Orders on Tan Amerika Allies Sets will be available for 4 weeks only (Ends July 16), after that they will only be in the new Amerika Game with [T]an Allies, Black Germans, and Yellow-Gold Japanese.”
So, making the Allies Set in in Tan allows one to get HBG Centurion tanks and Meteor Jet fighters in British Tan. But only for the next 2 to 3 weeks. (Recently, HBG announced that their French Set would be available for pre-orders in a “light blue” or “Free French” color until the 5th of June. Only pre-orders were cancelled before then, and if you were too slow, you missed out.) So, if this sounds like something you would like to have, you will want to move sooner rather than later.
One thing to point out, these Pre-Orders on Tan Amerika Allies Sets include not only the Allies Set pieces from base game pieces but also the Allies Set pieces from the Amerika Expansion Set “Bring in the Heavies”. Well worth it if you already have Amerika and the “Bring in the Heavies” expansion and you just want the new pieces, worth it if you already have Amerika and you just want the new pieces, and also worth-while if you just want to equip your late-war British in a game of Axis & Allies or Global War '36 or '39 with some awesome new tanks, mechs, self-propelled guns, jet fighters, and jet bombers.
For the visually-inclined, a picture of some of the pieces is available here:
Source
For those that want to know what all you get, here is a listing of what you are pre-ordering for when you put down your $38 ($32 for the pre-order, $6 shipping in the US):
Unit / (US Green Pieces) / (British Tan Pre-Order Pieces)
Base Game
B-48 Jet Bomber / (6) / (4)
Centurion Medium Tank / (10) / (4)
M19 SP AA Gun / (8) / (6)
M43 SP Artillery / (10) / (6)
M75 Mechanized Inf. / (8) / (4)
Meteor Jet Fighter / (10) / (4)
Rangers (Elite Infantry) / (20) / (12)
T-29 Heavy Tank / (8) / (4)
Bring in the Heavies Expansion
B-47 Jet Bomber / (5) / (4)
M6 Heavy/Medium Tank / (5) / (4)
M36 Tank Destroyer / (5) / (4)
P-59 Jet Fighter / (5) / (4)
T-28 Heavy/Super Heavy Tank / (5) / (4)
And if you’re ready to pre-order some awesome Brit pieces, HBG is standing by: http://www.historicalboardgaming.com/Battle-Pieces--Amerika-Set-Tan-Pre-Order_p_3425.html
-Midnight_Reaper
P.S. Edit to correct spelling.
@CaptainNapalm Tank Designer: “We don’t need armor on top of the tank. Who is going to hit the top of the tank?”
Two years later, an anti-tank gunner is lining up to nail the engine and halt the tank - from 20 meters up…
-Midnight_Reaper
@barnee said in Axis and Allies PC game:
@tjw0099 right on yea I’ve heard of it but never played it. I thought there was a thread for it here but … ? Lets ask @Midnight_Reaper he’s quite knowledgeable about all the games
I thank you for your confidence, but the computer A&A games are not my strong suite. Ask about the physical board games and I’m there, though.
Good luck getting your answers all the same.
-Midnight_Reaper