Best posts made by Midnight_Reaper

To add to the esteemed SS Gen had to say - stickers. Stickers and clear coat sealant. Take those blank dice that SS Gen showed us. Get some dot stickers (I will give an example below) in three colors of your choice. Color one, hits. Color two, misses. Color three, one per die. Use your color three dots to label how many hits on the die (1 or 3 or 7). I would use black for hits, white for misses, and red for the identification dot. So, a “4 hit” die would have 12 sides, with 4 color ones, 7 color twos, and one color three with a “4” printed on it.

The clear coat? After dots are applied and the color three dots are labeled, evenly coat the dice and dots with sealant to keep them together and stain-free.

Dot Stickers Example

Another 2 IPCs,

-Midnight_Reaper

@Tizkit said in Which is the best sea unit?:

{snip}
So, to make a long story short, if you want to make an incremental change to your usual navy mix, probably get more subs. If you want to up your strategic game, study how great players use their aircraft carriers. Apologies for how long this got.

No need to apologize, I think you wrote Clegg’s essay for him… (j/k Clegg).

The only thing I would add would be to “foot stomp” on a point you made early on - “Transports are arguably the worst individual unit, but even a single transport changes the threat level of a navy completely.” Transports turn an expensive collection of steel on (or in) the water into a force that will bring an enemy empire to ruins. The money is on land, and transports are how you get to that land (and money) from elsewhere.

-Midnight_Reaper

@Patchman123 said in G40 Redesign (currently taking suggestions):

How about we have the Empire ships serve as the United Kingdom player’s transport ship class?

How making a seperate British transport ship piece?

There is a separate British transport. You get 12 in every copy of A&A 1941. Mind you, only 4 are in British tan, the rest are 4 in US OD green and 4 in Soviet Maroon.

The allied transport ship in A&A 1941 is based off of Canada’s “Fort Ships”, which were a class of 198 ships made in Canadian shipyards during the war. They were essentially the Canadian answer to the US’s Liberty ships. All of the Forts were for use by the United Kingdom, those built for Canadian use were named the Park ships.

All that said, WotC has provided separate, Commonwealth-origin, British transports. They just put them in a different game.

-Midnight_Reaper

On the bright side, this means that Google is looking to put on their map…

-Midnight_Reaper

@Avner Not to tell you that you won’t find an opponent from this post, but we have a dedicated thread just for finding online game partners: https://www.axisandallies.org/forums/topic/3761/find-opponents-here/393

I hope this helps.

-Midnight_Reaper

@SS-GEN said in D12 Battle, or Hit, Dice:

You would still pick through dice looking for the number to hit number. I’ve played with colored hit dies. For me looking for a color die is easier. Oh black 1, green 2, blue 3, red 4, white 5 but just me.

You could do a variation on that, which would simplify the whole operation: black for hits, color dots on the misses for what number. Say “3 hit” dice with 3 black dots and 9 blue dots, “5 hit” dice with 5 black dots and 7 orange dots. You use a chart to correlate your hit numbers with the colors or you could write the number on all 12 sides. If all sides have ink, then none of the sides are off due to ink. Something like “4 hit” dice with 4 black dots, 8 pink dots, and a “4” written on all 12 sides.

Yet another 2 IPCs,

-Midnight_Reaper

@AAdudeCPHDK1981 said in Just Got Axis And Allies Nova:

@Playing-Kid I have one as well :) and I am currently on the hunt for the Australian released version of the same game (the letovers that didnt sell went downunder and were reboxed - as far as I know (please correct me if someone knows something else)).

So, there is a story to all of this. I don’t guarantee that I know the whole story. I do promise that this version is what I understand to have happened.

Larry Harris sold Nova Game Designs his idea for a game about WW2. This game was called Axis & Allies. While Nova Game Designs printed more games than just this one (even more games designed by Larry Harris than this one), we will concern ourselves with just this game.

Nova Game Designs (NGD hereafter) did a print run for 5000 sets of components (sheets of colored cardboard chits for pieces, sheets with the unit stats and initial setup, map sheet, rule book, dice, box, what have you). The NGD version of the game was first sold in 1981. Sometime between 1981 and 1984, Milton Bradley bought the rights to A&A and hired Larry Harris to be a game designer for them. When Milton Bradley bought the rights to A&A, NGD could no longer sells A&A. At least, not in the US. This apparently left NGD with about 1500 sets of pieces left.

By all appearances, what NGD did then was set up a deal with JEDKO, selling the down-under games producer everything they had left of the A&A print run. JEDKO made a new box and stuffed all of the old guts into the new boxes. And so, 3500 NGD A&As (roughly) and 1500 JEDKO A&As (roughly).

If you have questions, I’ll try to answer them.

-Midnight_Reaper

You have my interest and I am willing to subscribe to your newsletter.

-Midnight_Reaper

@djensen

I was looking at a couple posts today and I noticed that I had no idea what game they were referring to. Namely:
Home Brewed Pacts/Treaties
and
Did Chile declare war on Germany?

There used to be a line that explained that the post was in, e.g. Axis & Allies Discussion & Older Games folder, Axis & Allies Europe subfolder. You could place a line about where to find the post between the top of the page and the title of the post, so that we can tell if this post is about AH’s G40 or HBG’s G36 or some other game, or perhaps a discussion about actual history (as opposed to the alternate history we sometimes create in our games).

Just a thought.

-Midnight_Reaper

I would definitely get a laptop if you want to play TripleA. Trying to do so with a Chromebook is asking for trouble and you would be mostly by yourself trying to troubleshoot what was causing problems between ChromeOS, whatever brand of Linux was on board, your Windows emulator, and TripleA. And if you lost me in that last sentence, you really do not want to try to play TripleA on a Chromebook.

-Midnight_Reaper

@CaptainNapalm Tank Designer: “We don’t need armor on top of the tank. Who is going to hit the top of the tank?”

Two years later, an anti-tank gunner is lining up to nail the engine and halt the tank - from 20 meters up…

-Midnight_Reaper

In this case, Germany would take Russia’s money. This would enable Germany to produce units next turn if it controls a factory somewhere. Mind you, Germany won’t go far on one turn of someone else’s production if it can’t retake Berlin - especially as the UK and the US will come gunning for Germany now.

Clear, or clear as mud?

-Midnight_Reaper

With the benefit of mulling all of this over last night into this morning, I hope you find these new critiques of mine to be helpful.

@Imperious-Leader said in 1942.2 House Rules Draft 1.1:

1942.2-- House Rules
New Units:
Light Tanks: 2-2-2 costing 5 ipc

I would ask that you consider applying the “Cavalry Withdrawal” rules that Ralph Boerke dreamed up in the '90s to your Light Tanks:

[Light Tank] Withdrawal: After one round of battle the Defender may withdraw one surviving Light Tank unit to any adjacent friendly territory. The Defender may continue to withdraw one surviving unit per round of battle so long as the battle continues. It is always allowed to take its defensive shot before it withdraws. If it is to withdraw, then it must do so before the Attacker starts the next round of battle.

This rule would help your Light Tanks work more like armored scouts, in my opinion. Whether you want your Light Tanks to work that way and whether the above rule is how you would do so is certainly up to you.

Fortifications: May be built at the cost of 3 ipc for the first level and 2 ipc each additional level and limit on build to the IPC of the territory (example: France at full capacity will be 6 levels costing 12 ipc.)

If the first level of a fortification costs 3 IPCs, wouldn’t fortifying France to six levels cost 13 IPCs?

Also, is there a limit on how quickly a territory can be fortified? Say, only 1 or 2 levels of fortification per territory per turn? In real life, the Atlantic Wall wasn’t built in just 3 months.

Technology:
Super Subs: Your subs now defend at 2, costing 7. Instead of combat and while adjacent to an enemy territory may perform an economic disruption attack by rolling two or less and if succeed, they cost the player 1 ipc. The attacks are capped by the ipc value of the area.

If your Super Subs have a different defense value and a different cost, should they be distinguished in some fashion from your regular subs? Perhaps with a special marker (maybe using HBG’s Sub Propulsion Markers) as opposed to a dedicated piece?

Heavy Bombers: 4-2-6 costing 15 ipc. These can SBR with a bonus of +2 ipc lost for each successful bombing run.

Again, if your Heavy Bombers have a different cost, a different defense value, and different SBR damage, should they be distinguished in some fashion from your regular bombers?

Jet Fighters: 4-5-4 costing 15. These units can

This rule appears to have not fully joined us today. Also, differing values and price, should they be distinguished as well?

Other Rules:
Setup Changes: Under LHTR “Gen Con Setup” Move the German Bomber to France.

Does this mean that your rule set uses the LHTR “Gen Con Setup” for setup other than the above listed change?

Also, there are a number of places where you designate that players, “Cannot have more than 6”, of a certain type of unit at any one time. While I have no problems with piece limits in general or with a limit of 6, I would consider lowering the limit to 5. I suggest 5 instead of 6 not for game balance but because HBG sells markers and pieces in sets of 5 instead of 6.

Players encouraged to maximize their opportunities may have to choose between buying too many or having too few of something when the limit is 6. I acknowledge that 6 sets of 5, split 5 ways, give all player 6 markers each. I would also point out that if players purchase nation-specific pieces, they would be back to having to choose between 5 and 10 for 6. I will concede that if you are buying sets of nation-specific pieces or markers for your A&A gaming then you might consider buying 10 of something anyways.

My 2 IPCs,

-Midnight_Reaper

@Panther
Hold the phone, I just reproduced the behavior. And, it’s repeatable. The issue is that on my laptop, if I pull up a page while my browser is in windowed mode, the top menu bar, with the AandA.org logo and the page counter, flows over top of the line with the post location.

If I then put my browser in “full screen” mode, the post location line comes back (the menu bar isn’t smushed and doesn’t need to bunch up over the post location line). If I go to “full screen” mode and then back to “windowed” mode, the post location line stays put.

It’s probably an issue with the underlying software, but at least I know what’s going on now.

Let’s see if we can get some pictures:

First picture, windowed mode in Firefox 67.0 on a laptop running Windows 7, no post location line

Second picture, full screen mode in Firefox, post location line

Third picture, return to windowed mode, post location line

The first picture, in windowed mode, without the "Home/Website/Forum Discussion / Adding post location … " line, that is what I’m now calling a bug.

I hope the pictures help explain things.

-Midnight_Reaper

Well, that’s a start, but it’s blurry. Let’s see if we can do better … let’s see what BoardGameGeek.com (BGG) has on offer:

An A&A Battle Board from the BGG photo files:
picture source

While we’re at it, BGG has a National Production / Weapons Development chart available as well:
picture source

And lastly, BGG as a picture of the National Control Markers from an unpunched sheet of them. That could be handy as well, if you need more:
picture source

I hope that helps you on this holiday season!

-Midnight_Reaper

Also, HBG has a full-up list of everything that you need to play 1936v3, as a three-page pdf file linked from their website:
https://www.historicalboardgaming.com/assets/images/HBG/GW1936v3/Accessories/Needed Units for Global War 36V31.pdf

That should let you know exactly what all you need to get started with 1936 v3.

-Midnight_Reaper

@jagdpanther69 I do not know of any such rules. I’ve looked and looked. I have never found anything. I’m planning to gin some up in the new year, but they would be strictly house rules.

If you do find anything, please let me know.

-Midnight_Reaper

@nolimit said in Global 1940 2nd Edition Standard Units but with Altered Costs:

{snip} for Cruisers I give the option of upgrading them to capital warships at a cost of 5 Ipcs off a coastal Factory in placing unit phase, they would take an extra hit!!!

How do you tell the capital ship Cruisers from the regular Cruisers?

-Midnight_Reaper

@djensen I made sure to pick my prize!

-Midnight_Reaper

@dark_avenger,

If you do not attack the transport off of the coast of India, nothing happens to it. It will sit in that sea zone and be a transport until such time as it is moved or destroyed. An attack on a land territory from other land territories has absolutely no effect on any ships at sea.

I hope that helps.

-Midnight_Reaper