Posts made by MeinHerr

R1,R2,R3 Buy 6 Tanks = 18 Tanks

• 3 Art+ 27 Inf  + 2 FTR+ Tac Bomber+ 2 Mechs

Attacking
German Ukraine forces on R4
3 AAA+ 25 Inf+ 5 Art+ 11 Mech+17 Tanks

Without low- luck is 99.4 % Win for Defense

I would love you to do that, if I were Germany.

@Cow:

Major ic is lose money. 30 ipc is 5 tank. 5 tank is better.   Think about it, g2 is when you buy all mech and armor if you spend 30 for a major you place 9 or 10 mech at most germany. Better to place west term move two spaces right next turn and it is as if you had a major anyway. Later you going to buy air to attack into Moscow same turn all yonr stuff hits. Usually bomber then bomber then hit.

If USSR does Tank+Art buys… on G4 Ukraine, USSR can theoretically kill Ukraine German forces.
A Major IC in Romania on G1/G2 … prevents that from happening.

Again, that is provided US is going KJF… and US1 build is all Pacific… this is important.

Japan must defer to J2  or J3  if possible.  Moscow should fall on G6

Yes Cow, 5 tanks are better… but they will be a turn too late to get to Ukraine…  all hinges on G4 Ukraine being able to hold against an USSR kill attempt on R4

If US goes KJF building in Pacific on US1 … consider buying a Major IC in Romania on G2
Or upgrading a minor IC (bought G1)

G3 buy of 10 Units in Romania… all reach Ukraine on G4…
Bryansk G5…
Moscow on G6 (along with 3 Units bought in Ukraine on G5)

G2 buy of say 6-8 Units in Germany will also get to Bryansk on G4
Via G3 - E. Poland
G4 - Ukraine/W.Ukraine

Italy buying Tank+Mech on Italy1, moving Albania and N. Italy Tank on Italy 1 to Romania… and keeping its SBR in range of hitting Bryansk on Italy 4 … means USSR has to defend Bryansk with everything…  or keep at least 6 Units there.

USSR must Land it’s planes in Moscow on R4… if it has to have a fighting chance…

If not … Italy 4 Can opens Bryansk with 3 Tanks+ Mech + SBR…

Germany can take Moscow  on G5 with  (9 Tanks + 3 Mechs - start) + (G2 Buy of 3 Tanks+ 3 Mechs) + (G3 buy of 5 Tanks+ 5 Mechs) + Luftwaffe

Lol, so you are saying throwing 4 times and clearing the box 4 times is faster then throwing only once and clearing only once?

And yes 3mm dice are the way to go the huge dice that came with the game are just way to large to be properly used. Any accendental bounce on the board is end of game with those huge dice 3mm dice hardly move pieces around.

If you cant read the result on 3mm dice how do you see the difference between cruisers / destroyers /transports anyway.

But it isnt only the dice but also board upkeep that saves time, big multi round combats require you to constantly remove pieces from the battleboard ( if you even use it ) and swap chips out because you have a red chip but need to remove 3 units from it.
Say for instance you got a stack of 6 inf ( red + unit ) and take 3 hits.
In your situation you have to get the chips and replace them with the right amount, then pick up 3 dice and throw them
in my situation i just take 3 dice from my hand and roll the next round.
I dont have to move to the board, i dont have to put pieces in the trays i just remove dice from my hand.

Or a real situation, germany attacks yugoslavia, in my case the defender takes just 5 dice for 2s and we can go, no need to swap in pieces we can do that if germany pulls out of not no pieces ever get on the board for the neutrals.

Teflon called it “The Boneyard “ 😀

As long as you go for a total fight to death - Combat, it’s fine doing this. Applies to most cases. The few exceptions would be …

1. If as USSR, you want to do a tactical strafe and retreat… or
2. With Naval Combat , as US you just want to tip Japanese CZvs… so that UK/ANZAC/France can deal the 2-3-4 blows… etc

Then actual unit damage/removal is necessary to know when to retreat.

But all in all… at some point, someone will have to do a YouTube video of 2 identical combats… One with Colored Dice… One without… then extrapolate the time saving to about 80-90 more and we might be able to convince those who doubt the time savings with
Colored dice …

The whole world came to an agreement on the Colors of Traffic lights.
Red means Stop! Green means Go! Yellow means Slow, it’s going to Change.
People conceded their right to have their favorite color , in the interest of prevent chaos and so that traffic can goo smooth and fast. Correct?

While playing Triple A, the computer does dice rolls super-fast, so you see how fast the game progresses.

In real life live-games, when both sides roll and re-roll… laboriously…  and even separately…(1,2,3,4) combat by combat… do you guys not see how much longer the game takes because of this single decision?

Most combats are going to go usually through 2 rolls and use 2-3 different strengths of units…

Do you not see how this stretches out the game?

Seriously, we are intelligent people here and can figure out that repeatedly throwing and collecting dice to roll 4 times per side -usually twice- per Combat  is going to take much longer than 2 rolls of multicolored dice…

That is the first point .

Then comes the second… our elementary school hang-up about colors!!!

Let us be adults about this…

We have our favorite colors granted, but come on… these are not sacrosanct.
They are just dice with varied colors.

Yes, common sense is important too… like Not voiding a roll that is made with the obvious combination.  (As Krutzfeld has described).

That being said… it is the exception to the rule.

Once we agree to even tryout common color convention  … (every tournament can have its common color standards to start… at least to try this out)…  things will go much faster.

Folks, I know Iam not talking to people of average intellect here. To play A&A well… you have to have the ability to think faster and more complex than an average person.

Just look at the results of voting above… and other comments on rolling separately…

Surely you understand why we should at least try it out.

Exactly my point. But not everybody has Sired Blood’s custom dice  …. though I do like the concept of the Sired Blood Dice.
Just that we should come to an agreement on color at some point to have a common standard going forward at most tournaments.
Hence this post.
I mean, when we play , it ought to be superquick and we ought not to be wasting a single moment thinking about what colors are 1, 2, 3, or 4.
Be it whether we play A&A in Canada, Japan, Europe or US.
It should be automatic.
  And colored dice with an agreed convention will really speed things up.
At present the Combat phase in live games takes up way too much time… much more than it really should.

This is not a very hard thing to do…  just that folks should grasp that
A) Colored dice do speed things up
B) A single color convention agreed by all makes it easy for everyone.

AAgamer-

It does take longer when you do them separately.

If your hand cannot hold that many dice, you use a cup , close the top, shake it and throw. Done.

Maybe only when you use an actual timer , will you understand how much the me is consumed picking up each set of dice, adjust quantity and re-roll for the next number.

That is for the attacker…. imagine then the defender going through the same process.

The more complex the battle, the longer it takes with multiple rolls.

This is time wasted for an absurd reason.

In timed games… time should be used in planning moves, Buys , Combat and non-combat… than … but should be used efficiently during the Combat phase.

Yes, the timer/clock “stops” during Combat phase… but… the actual time taken can be significantly reduced.

Just take an example of 2 simple battles and you will get what I say:

1. Attack by Germans on Paris , on G1
2. Attack on SZ111 by Germans , on G1

Compare the times used for single number rolls versus color dice rolls.
You will understand the difference.

Bought mIC in Alaska

The separate rolling of the 1s, 2s, 3s, 4s  makes it that the game only goes for 5-6 TURNS a day.  ( A TURN =  Germany start to France ending in Global game)
Reason is that one spends an average of 10 seconds- extra per roll….  and average rolls involved about 3 different “strengths” (1,2,3 or 4)
  Looking at it, a couple of rounds of combat rolling… separately …makes it take at least 1 minute extra per combat.

In tournaments, you could play players you have never met before.  They may want to do the 4s,3s,2s,1s,  rather than 1s.2s.3s,4s,

And some players tend to be very obstinate on how they go about their combat rolls…  even if they are told that the separate multiple rolling is going to results in Less TURNS being played in the game.

I have seen it this happen for 5 years.  This post is mainly for players who are not familiar with each other.

If you look at the mechanics of dice rolling:
A) There are about 15-22 combats the first turn, about 12-18  combats the second, and then about 14 combats on an average every turn. Lets keep it to 16 combats a turn for 6 TURNS  - average.
B) Hence if a standard game for 6 TURNS , you are looking at 96 combats… let us round it to 100 (for AAA shots and Strat/Tac bombings)
C) Hence a saving (1 min per combat) is  100 minutes , that is equivalent to playing 2  EXTRA TURNS. 
D) We are not even talking about MEGA- combats  like Pacific Fleet battles or a Bryansk/Moscow battle, or a Sealion or J3 India crush battle.  These could add-up to using even more time for that turn.

Should players be of good caliber, and evenly matched , with the bid/handicap , then a 7-8 TURN game on an average is better at predicting the winning side compared to a 5-6 TURN game.

There are miscellaneous factors that i have not mentioned as a J4 / Allied Pac DOW on Japan scenario,… where US does not get into the game till US4… and then when the game “ends” 2 TURNS later due to lack of time…  it makes for a very dubious result.

Also, this prevents players/losing side  from “running out the clock”…

In tournaments, you play a completely different game the next day, maybe with different players.

Hence to get a better conclusion as to which side “won”  , saving time using multiple colored dice , AND ,  having ONE standard colored dice convention goes a Long way.

1. Cruiser
2. Battleship
3. AAA gun

Hello Mates,  (seek your pardon if this has been discussed before)

When playing a Global game (in person), one of the simplest ways to expedite the game is to roll dice as few times as possible.
The problem I have encountered is that different groups tend to have different color codes. Some players go for fancy combat dice. Doing this really really slows the game.
Opposing teams in same game have different color combinations!

When each team is using a different convention, there is likelihood that come “hits” could be missed  by the players… or … conversely, be counted, when there were none.  Even a single wrongly counted hit could influence the final game result .

So each time the dice are rolled, each side has to use precious time to consult the color code and this leads to needless waste of time.

I think, it is time to come to a consensus on a single convention for dice colors.

We can vote here on this forum and discuss pros and cons, but once done, we go with the majority vote.  Makes life easier for everyone across the world.

Few things to remember BEFORE YOU VOTE!

There are some demographic groups that have a greater number of color-blindness.
The highest propensity is for the red-green color blindness.
But, please keep in mind traffic lights across the world still use Red and Green.

Black and White dice seem to have the least problems associated with them.
Followed by Blue and Yellow.

Most commonly owned and used dice colors I have seen are Black, White, Red, Blue and Green.

Most commonly used dice rolls are :2 followed by 1 followed by 3 … then 4 (2>1>3>4)
(At least in games I have played) or it could be 1>2>3>4

So logically, in my humble opinion,  we should go for (For counting as “hits”)
White as 1
Black  as 2  (and 1)
Blue as 3 (and 2,1)
All other colors Green or Red or Yellow etc as 4 (3,2,1)

But, lots of people may tend to have lots of opinions… and color blindness may be completely absent from our playing group.

Please vote as well as please voice your opinion.

Cheers,

Mein Herr

PS: My favored convention was always  White(1), Blue (2), Red (3),Black (4)

PSS: To simplify the discussion , the “order” of colors indicate the “order” of hits…
eg: White, Blue, Red ,  Black  — means the above… 1,2,3,4

@Karl7:

Hey MeinHerr, just for fun I checked out your meet up post from November 28, 2014.  Didn’t see the Sneaky Karl/Mahatma Gambit/Anzac Steamer/Gargantua’s Bane being played…  Did I miss it?

Karl….
Meetup forum does not discuss move-by-move. The purpose of Mertup is different. But on Nov 28,2014… I mentioned the fact I played the move there and WROTE THIS…, you will see it as you scroll down half-way:

[“ If at all you guys remember this game for…. you have seen something truly historic , that in my opinion has never ever been played.
I call the " Ram’s Mahatma Gambit". You know the details.
I was made fun of, and it was belittled, but on inspection, esp. against an unsuspecting opponent it is very devastating.
In my opinion it will change the game forever.
Despite everything, do take comfort in the fact that you saw it being played for the first time ever!”]

And on Nov 30th, 2014 … put that info here on the aforementioned thread.

So, hope I have connected enough dots for you to comprehend.

So, yes Harris may have called it BS… (maybe he himself was not aware)… and you and others have renamed it or even back then called to rename it.

Obviously, so some reason… my chosen term was for some unknown reason… not pleasing to some people.

However, since you brought it up in this thread earlier… in BOLD FONT Letters… I had to correct you… to just keep the record straight.
So what you choose to call it now, is up to your conscience.

(BTW, in event you did not read the whole plan… there are 2 variations… one only with UK DD… one with the UK BB and DD!)

That move (I named Mahatma Gambit)… where the UK DD or BB is places with the Japanese Navy, (in peace - hence the “ Mahatma”)  and Anzac declares … screwing up the Japanese Transport Combat … was played on the Day-after-Thanksgiving game on Frin Nov 28th,2014 in Seattle, WA. There were 7 people who played that day.

Details are here:
https://www.meetup.com/Tacoma-Axis-and-Allies-Meet-Up-Group/events/204823582/

Some of those players are members and contributors here.

No mention of such a move was ever mentioned in this Forum before then, and before you know it… there were people trying to “rename” it…

Just for the record.

Karl/AV … that move and another subsequent move was already described in detail on Nov 30, 2014.
Check it out here Bud…
https://www.axisandallies.org/forums/index.php?topic=34893.0

J3 is almost as good, if you are set up on J2 .
Especially so, if you know UK+ Anzac will Attack on their turn 2. 
I can see the Italians and Germans dancing a little jig at this… 😃

Is this situation not similar to the Flying Tiger (Ch FTR)seeking refuge in Burma.
  It has always been that Japan could not attack Burma , only pursuing the plane. It automatically means a DOW on UK India.

So, to check…

A)  all players play 2 games…
9 rounds each.

B) All games are No Bid… correct.

C) So how does the first tie-breaker work?
Is it like this
2-0 > 1-0> 1-1>0-0  ?
Or
2-0> 1-0>0-0>1-1 ?

Need clarification for C, please.

Thanks
MH

Are Bids going to be “negotiable” between the Axis n Allies…
or is it set as Standard at 16 for Allies?

Confused as to the rules of the tournament…. please post the rules … once and for all…

http://gameon-con.com

Feb 8-11  Strategic War Games (4-day) Conventional in Seattle ,WA