Posts made by mastermind93

@Yavid:

aahhh ok i get it now. I’m a cheapo so I would set the other half on an index card and the units on the card with it. Overall I like them alot. oh and each nation only gets 3? one army, one airforce, one naval? is that correct?

If you’re cheap like that, I just thought of something else you could do. Just use those handy setup cards.  :P  In answer to your question: no, they are not nation specific. I didn’t have that many poker chips handy, or I probably would have. The only distinction I made was between sides (eg. one set for the axis and one for the allies). Each side has two land groups, two naval, and one air (to be used if you need/want three of land or sea).

Yeah, I used to use those task force markers that came with revised, but I wanted something that looked cooler. Later, I decided to get rid of the pieces that came with revised. And then last week I saw some stuff on Ebay with task force markers, and I decided to make my own. I’m glad you like them, though.

Thanks!!!  =)

@Yavid:

So those go on the map? Where the part that lets you put what’s suppose to be on the map on? And how to you tell what task force marker go with each task force? They look good just seems like it’s missing half of the Task Force Marker concept.

If you notice, each marker has a twin. The point is to put one on the map and put one off the board with the pieces next to it. I was thinking about making some cards or something similar to hold the pieces on, but I’m not sure what exactly I want to do with that.

I think I get what you’re saying, but I would ask you to clarify.

A couple things that I will point out, though: First, that sounds like it’s going to use up more chips than I care to buy. With what I made, I just used spare poker chips that I had lying around and revised pieces that I don’t need anymore. (plus, I already implement other colored poker chips in the game) Second, I often run into situations where I have multiple nations in the same territory/zone, so the only differentiation I made were between Axis and Allied forces.

Saw an auction on ebay for task force markers. Instead of buying them, I decided to make some of my own using poker chips and pieces from Revised (won’t be needing them anyway, since I now have 1942 2nd Ed). What do y’all think? Any other suggestions? I have four more chips. The basic idea is that you stick one on the board space that’s uber crowded, and the second one goes off the board with the miniatures next to it. For each side (Axis, Allies) there are 2 naval, 2 ground, and one air, which can be used for either ground forces or naval. The only other thought I had was to make one with a transport and a couple ground units, but I’m almost thinking that what I have now is good enough. Thoughts?

Have you found those files yet, IL?

@Cmdr:

Sharpeeing a map is sacriledge!  Why not melt your figures down and remold them into different pieces while yer at it?  Eh?  Burn some books too!   :roll: :cry:

I have to admit. I do agree. Especially with the Anniversary Edition…

I like Imperious Leader’s new maps. They retain much of the aesthetic appeal of the newer maps, while (more) clearly defining territory borders. I have plans to print out the 1942 (2009) version.

Shout out to Imperious Leader. I love the maps you’ve put up, and I have plans to print out a couple of them. I was wondering though if you still had the files for Risk Napoleonic Edition. I came across an old thread in this forum with most of the stuff, but not everything. If possible, I think it would make a good addition to your map files thread. Thanks  =)

How did it pan out in Africa? I know that usually in Revised and 1942 1st Ed that taking Egypt first turn has been pretty standard. Maybe Germany could land more units in Libya and proceed to attack on G2? Thoughts? I haven’t had time to play mine yet.

Check out the resource page on this website. Here’s a link: http://www.axisandallies.org/resources-downloads/

You’re playing the 2009 version right? That means that the UK can move those first before Japan’s turn. I’m a little confused.

The second edition is a whole different setup and strategy, so it’s really up to you, although personally (if you don’t have any of these), I’d buy 1942 2nd Ed first.

As to your second question, 1942 (1st Ed) is pretty much revised with cruisers and some updated rules, so if you have the option, 1942 (1st) is probably the better of those two.

Personally, I have Revised and now 1942 2nd Ed, and I’m keeping the revised map and charts, printing out the charts for 1942 1st Ed, and of course keeping 1942 2nd Ed. That way I can play all three. Four actually, since I found Classic at a rummage sale for $0.50. Anyways, though……      =)

@Make_It_Round:

Planes can fly over multiple territories / sea zones, but are only permitted to ‘search’ the one they rest in during the combat movement phase.

You are not allowed to ‘peek’ into adjacent land territories. That would defeat the whole purpose of playing blind! If you want to see into enemy territory, you need to commit at least one land unit to enter it during the combat movement phase.

In the war, though, weren’t planes sometimes used for recon. I think a good rule might be that if the planes weren’t participating they could look into territories (still subject to AA fire, of course), but only see the number of units there, not the types. The player declares what path the fighter takes, and if there are any AA guns, they fire. Then if the plane(s) survive, the contents (limited info) of the territories they passed over are revealed. Might make the game more interesting, also, if AA guns are hidden.

The closest story I think I have is one game where I was playing A&A1942 as the Allies (one-on-one) with a friend. For US, I decided I would try something different. Every turn, I just stocked up on subs and threw them at Japan. The first wave died. The second wave broke through, and tadaa, all his transports were gone. And there was no way, with only 35 IPC that he could break through 20-25 subs, whose hits are opening fire casualties. Not the best strategy, but it was fun watching Japan flounder about in the Pacific.  =P    Then Japan made a last ditch effort to capture moscow with 2 inf, 4 figs, and a bomber. Unfortunately for them, 3 of their figs died to AA fire. That marked the end of the Japanese empire.

@Gargantua:

A digital application of this, would be the best method…

But there would have to be rules for scouting and spying included.

A TripleA variant… Talk to Veqryn, he can do crazy things for money.

Have any of you heard of Supremacy 1914? It’s an online game for WWI (hence the date), but it is almost a simulation, like what you’re talking about. It also takes into account morale of troops and cities, fog of war, and many other things. It’s also RTS, so it takes forever to play. The only reason why I quit is because I didn’t have nearly enough time. It’s a great game, though.

@moralecheck:

It may hurt the Russians in the long run.  May I suggest, that when captured, a factory is given full 6 damage.  The captor can’t use it (as a variant to your house rule), so they won’t fix it, but at least the Russians only have to pay to repair, rather than replace it when and if they retake it.  Heavily damaging a facory on capture also reflects the heavy fighting in the cities that contain them.  Or maybe just do the 6 damage thing and allow the captor to use it if they fix it (perhaps they should be seen as reforming destroyed units there, as opposed to making new builds).  Whatever route you try, I’d be curious to hear how it goes.

That was my first thought also. Even in the old games where ICs didn’t take damage, you could make a house rule stating that ICs, upon capture, take damage equal to half the territory value (rounded up). I also like the new dynamic of A&A 1942 2nd Ed. where AAs where specific to that nation.

@cebrickey:

Good point. The key is for players to stay involved in the game and maintain a high level of interest / excitement. I believe A&A 1941 will do just that with its faster playing time per game turn.

Yeah, this version is really for less experienced players. I remember pulling an A&A all-nighter with some friends, and because the turns took so long, one of them actually fell asleep. Meanwhile, as the mastermind of the bunch (heehee… get it?) I thoroughly enjoyed every minute of strategizing and trying to outsmart my opponents. I’m just not sure if I could take the simplicity. Either that, or my fellow players would get so fed up with me because I’m taking so long to finish my turn.  :-P

@kcdzim:

It’s the US Naval hull classification symbol for a transport vessel.  Generally A stands for auxiliary. P likely stands for Personnel.

Refer to the following for a more complete list:

http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Hull_classification_symbol

Thanks for the info and the article. Very helpful.  =)

Also, I have a question. (Pardon my ignorance here) You used the abbreviation AP to stand for transport. I was just wondering why. I don’t get it. My mind is drawing a complete blank. I’ll probably smack myself in the forehead when you tell me, though.