Posts made by Hepps01

bed fellows.

Also true.

However I can see it happening easily enough.  Generally as a rule when you learn a game like this with a group of friends only one person (the purchaser) reads the rules (remember I am saying generally).  Form there everyone else tends to learn from him/her (her! lol).  Firmly established misinterpretations of rules could easily be played out for the remainder of their gatherings.  Unless you reach out to find others you could potentially play on forever using the same wrong rule.

lol.  I was thinking the exact same thing!  20 some odd years.

I’m trying to imagine how I’d ever have played for that long given the huge impact the way you were playing would have had on each game.

moilami, you still out there?

I got the confirmation e-mail but not the newsletter?  Has a news letter e-mail already gone out?

Great work Veq,  as always.  Good addition.

After looking at the discussion I have to agree with some of what a couple of you have said…

1)  Not Quite sure I’d want to play 6 hours of a game only to have it end immediately (Meaning that if the assassination is successful, whatever the odds, the game is over for the Germans regardless of how many territories change or do not).  While this could add a certain historical flare to a game, it is one that would ruin the entire game experience.

2)  I also agree that having the outcome benefit the German nation economically is equally silly to having an instant end to a game.

All in all while a neat theoretical idea to incorporate a historical situation into the game I’m not sure I would ever even consider playing with such a rule.

Signed up.  Strangely did not get the confirmation e-mail.

EDIT  Got it.  Just took a while.

I would assume Rio De Oro is included in most maps because it was a holding of Spain.  Therefore realistically you could not travel down the coast without Spain being involved in the war.

In some games there is the option to either ally with Spain or declare war on Spain, there-by making it possible to move from North Africa to Central Africa or the other way.

One last thing for you.

Before you start on the table itself…

I highly recommend you take some of you excess materials (or go buy one more good sized piece of pine if you were left with no good off-cuts) and do testing of stain applications.

This will allow you to get a feel for how the stain is taking to the material.  It will also allow you to see how many layers of stain it will take to get the desired shade.  What “Iwillnevergrowup” said is completely and 100% true… 2 or three light coats will ALWAYS yield better results than trying to do one heavy coat.

Good luck.  Look forward to seeing shots of the finished table.

No not necessarily.  Most stains can be applied in any position.  I have applied stain in all positions.  Of course it is always easier to be working on a horizontal surface simply because you are above the material with gravity working for you and can see clearly.  But it is not necessary.

The only real keys to success are: surface preparation(sanding and cleaning), controlling the amount of stain being applied during each pass/application,  duplicating the application process (amount applied and the time to remove excess) each time, and lastly but most importantly… always applying stain with the grain of the wood.

The stain conditioner is not expensive at all.

All staining MDF will do is take on some of the colour characteristics of the stain.  But much darker than the surrounding pine since it starts so much lighter.

I would recommend you paint the MDF.  Maybe in colours to suit each nation.  Then as you say, roudels would finish it off nicely and make each compartment very destinctive for each nation.

All good advice.  The preparation with sanding is paramount.

The other thing that is important with Pine (as well as other softer woods) is the sap and moisture content.

There is a product called “Wood Conditioner” that can be applied to woods like Pine to help make the wood take the stain more consistently.  I also know some painters that prefer to dampen the material slightly prior to staining.  Going to a good paint store and talking to them would set you in the right direction from a preparation standpoint.

Sorry still getting a handle on this.

Did you get an e-mail with my original move?  If so use that.

The reason I did my move is that I only noticed after the fact when I checked back here that there was no updated save.

I redid the move just in case.

If you received the first version I’m sure you would prefer to use that since I got totally diced in that version.

TripleA Turn Summary for game: 270BC, version: 1.3.1

Game History

Round :1

Purchase Units - Parthia
            Parthia buy 1 city, 2 horsearchers and 1 spearman; Remaining resources: 0 PUs;

Combat Move - Parthia
            1 spearman moved from Ctesiphon to Seleucia
                  Parthia take Seleucia from Seleucid
            3 spearmen moved from Cyropolis to Sanina
            1 archer moved from Cyropolis to Ctesiphon
            1 cataphract, 1 cavalry and 1 horsearcher moved from Ctesiphon to Sanina
            1 cataphract moved from Susa to Babylon
            1 cataphract moved from Persepolis to Babylon
            4 spearmen moved from Persepolis to Babylon
            2 spearmen moved from Susa to Babylon
            1 horsearcher moved from Susa to Babylon
            1 cavalry moved from Susa to Babylon
            3 archers moved from Susa to Ctesiphon
            5 spearmen moved from Susa to Ctesiphon
            4 spearmen moved from Ecbatana to Ctesiphon
            1 horsearcher moved from Ecbatana to Sanina
            2 horsearchers moved from Cyropolis to Sanina
            1 archer moved from Ecbatana to Ctesiphon
            2 archers moved from Persepolis to Susa
            1 cavalry moved from Persepolis to Babylon
            1 bireme moved from SZ 86 to SZ 85

Combat - Parthia
            Battle in Sanina
                Parthia attack with 1 cataphract, 1 cavalry, 4 horsearchers and 3 spearmen
                Neutral defend with 2 archers and 4 cavalrys
                Parthia win, taking Sanina from Neutral with 1 cataphract, 1 cavalry and 4 horsearchers remaining. Battle score for attacker is 15
                Casualties for Neutral: 2 archers and 4 cavalrys
                Casualties for Parthia: 3 spearmen
            Battle in Babylon
                Parthia attack with 2 cataphracts, 2 cavalrys, 1 horsearcher and 6 spearmen
                Neutral defend with 3 archers and 7 spearmen
                Parthia win, taking Babylon from Neutral with 2 cataphracts remaining. Battle score for attacker is 1
                Casualties for Neutral: 3 archers and 7 spearmen
                Casualties for Parthia: 2 cavalrys, 1 horsearcher and 6 spearmen

Non Combat Move - Parthia

Place Units - Parthia
            1 city placed in Ctesiphon
            2 horsearchers and 1 spearman placed in Persepolis

Turn Complete - Parthia
            Parthia collect 51 PUs; end with 51 PUs total

moilami, did you receive my turn?  I made my moves but there was not run summary posted.

I’m wondering if it emailed it to you directly.

lol.

Apologizing for going “off topic”?  Shouldn’t say " I apologize for going back on topic". :-D

I have to say that PBEM is quite possibly the most boring way to play a game.

I feel like I’m playing by myself, and playing one turn every day or couple of days is very unexciting.

Apparently purchases do not carry over.  Something I was unaware of.  So if you are good with it, I will simply refund the lost P.U. to the Greeks on my turn with the Persians.  That way I’ll simply have 7 more P.U. for purchases on the Greeks turn.  (Which is what I would have done anyway had I known that units do not carry over between turns).

I have every roundel known to mankind.