I used both a Tiger and a King Tiger in a “tank fight” battle for kicks. It was rediculous how effective they are. Granted, I don’t own any Crocs, but I do own E8s and plenty of Shermans (and lighter tanks). The Tiger was awesome. The King Tiger was amazing. If used properly (ie: stalking behind terrain until ready to shoot) they just don’t die. Heh.
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Why not buy singles jester?
I probably should have been a little more clear: I really want 6 AB, but also don’t have enough Chinese, Romanians, Japanese, or Polish and thus still buy set 2 over set 1. :-D Plus I can’t buy singles online. I don’t have a credit card. Blegh.
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A waste? Who says that? bloody heathens! :mrgreen:
Axis and Allies Minis is a mix between a boardgame and a tabletop wargame. It’s more boardgame than Flames of War, but more wargame than the regular Axis and Allies (IMHO). The game is simple to learn, but complex to master as each unit often has its own special rules and abilities. The game can be tactical without being a headache, and simple without being boring. Personally, I’m very happy with the game. I play Flames of War, so I sometimes need a game that isn’t so detailed and complex- enter A&AM. The models are really cool too. Granted, it takes buying a handful of booster sets after the core set to get enough pieces to not field a multi=national army but the game is so much fun to play I didn’t mind shelling out the cash.
A&AM is also a great way to introduce non-wargamers and non-history buffs to the wargaming hobby. Kids can figure out how to play it, but adults can still enjoy it. The average game takes about an hour to an hour and a half when I play it, but we field bigger armies than the core rules tell you to use (I even bought a second core set to have the extra maps so we had the room to play these units and still maneuver). No, this game isn’t a waste at all. I think it’s a great way to spend an evening with friends and loved ones (my girlfriend is a vehement German fanatic- she’s wicked with that Brumber!).
And those who want a little more complexity: this game begs to be houseruled!! We’re already adding in observers, calling in off-board artillery, morale, etc. And the next set will have even more rules added to it (and a Flak 8.8mm I hope!).
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It also depends on what armies you like to play the most. I mean, it’s hard to impossible to get a decent Chinese or Airborne army going using the base set. If you’re actually collecting I’d agree and say finish Set 1. If you’re concerned more with fieldable specific armies being complete, then go with the set that has the armies you most need. For example, I’m really trying to get at least 6 US Airborne units (I’m getting close) so I started buying only Set 2. Otherwise finish the forst one first. Especially since you need more base infantry.
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yes you can. its in the rules. look under the " Transport" in the glossary section in the back!
Whoa! This changes everything… now I need my halftracks even more. Thanks for the info.
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It costs a movement action to enter a jeep, so I would say no. Not unless they make a unit that gets a free move before the game begins.
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No guess as to how long THAT will take…
I don’t know how the game is doing elsewhere, but it seems to be picking up momentum in my neck of the woods. That’s good to know. Of course, there’s only so many units you could make before you’ve made everything historical.
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I asked WoTC and the ruling is that the disruption counter comes off on the casualty phase of the following round. It comes on as a face-up counter, so the logic of the wording apparently is intended to avoid taking it off at the end of the turn it comes into play.
Whew. That’s the way I interpretted the rules for it, but then as I read this thread I started to get worried that the german Sniper was horribly powerful (and that I’d been playing wrong). Thank’s for the clarification Lotus.
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“I would be willing to trade in a trading forum provided by www.axisandallies.org”
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I don’t believe Jeeps could be effective combat vehicles.
Except that they were in WWII. Which is what I’m basing this on. A .50 cal mg that’s mobile is better than a .50 cal foot-slogger. Or how about when the jeeps were outfitted with mortars? Are they somehow less-effective than the same mortars carried by mortar teams? If jeeps aren’t effective combat vehicles, then the infantry carrying .50 cals or mortars must not be effective either? Or is this just presupposition that they weren’t effective combat vehicles?
:roll:
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I am too.
On the KenzerCo.com forums there’s an experiment to have a trading part of the forum called “Hackbay” (you’d have to read “Knights of the Dinner Table” to get that name), and it works well. People said it’d fail and that people would screw each other, but the fan enthusiasm and sense of community weeded out the bad seeds and we now have a viable gaming trade zone.
Just my two pence.
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But you must remember the hexes are 100 meters from side to side, so even if an infantry squad approaches a tank “from the front” there is a lot of room to maneuver in the hex itself, so your infantry can ostensibly be approaching from the side, around trees and hills, in the FOG OF WAR as bullets are flying and the tank is preoccupied with other things.
Which is the point I was about to make. I’d also like to add to it that though the hex might be a clear, grassy field as far as game mechanics, you gotta keep in mind that the grass is usually very high, has some scrub and trees scattered about, rocks, gullies, maybe even a cottage or two… they’re not flat and empty. So at 100 meters and having some clutter (but not enough to warrant making cover rolls) and such it isn’t unrealistic for infantry to be able to avoid defensive fire from a tank. It’s only when the infantry gets close to the tank (ie: in combat) that the tanks machine guns defend it. Otherwise the infantry isn’t visible to the tank regardless of how many peepholes it has.
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I’ve been looking at Ebay’s prices for these models and they aren’t bad at all (especially since I need uncommons and commons as opposed to rares), but I was wondering if anyone knows of any other good online stores where I can nab some singles. I know that alot of my friends that play the D&D miniatures game have a whole bunch of websites that tarde singles at muchn cheaper prices than Ebay, so I was hoping some people here knew of sites for Axis and Allies Miniatures’ singles.
Oh German halftracks, how I need a handful of you… :mrgreen:
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Man… I was totally off in how I was running Superior Armor: I like how it was pointed out that you need to think in terms of hits not damage counters. That really clarified things for me.
Alot.
OK, so maybe now that King Tiger won’t we such a game stopper anymore. W00t.
:mrgreen:
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Hopefully one of them will have some new maps, maybe a Battle of the Bulge type maps (snowy hills, rozen rivers and one seriously bombed out Bastogne), perhaps some maps that have beaches and the sea for some good ol’ Nomandy battles (hey, they could release the Higgins Landing Craft finally!), etc. I just want new maps. I’d rather spend my cash on A&AM than on Memior tiles. Mmmm, new maps.
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I’m all for the Inspiring LT. The extra move is really, really sweet. I usually slap two on the field when I do a large British or Allied force.
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If you go to Boardgamegeek.com they have hit counters you can print up. Here’s a link to them:
http://files.boardgamegeek.com/viewfile.php3?fileid=13170
I actually bought another starter set for extra maps, counters and cards, with the minis within a second priority at the time. Ahhh, expendable Xmass cash. 8-) It’s nice having spare counters, especially if you start pulling 200 pt. battles and stuff. This URL should help.
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Interesting rule but I think it’s too cheap at 4 points.
Well, yea. That’s why I said:
…but I also didn’t want to upset the balance of the unit or make it too much more expensive so this is what I came up with…
…I’m unsure of (what) to charge for it in it’s combat mode though. Do I make it cost about the same as a Sd Kfz 222? Hrmmm. I dunno.
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:mrgreen:
I’m thinking of making it be +8 points in this mode. I probably should clarify that you would have to choose how the Jeep will be before play begins: once you choose it to be a combat vehicle it can’t suddenly become a transport and vice-versa.
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I’ve been pondering the US Jeep’s lack of combat ability in A&AM and wanted to houserule the thing, but I also didn’t want to upset the balance of the unit or make it too much more expensive so this is what I came up with:
A jeep may be outfitted for combat support or transport. Moving that one figure represents moving a whole squad, so I figure that if it’s doing one thing it won’t have room to do the other. With a .50 cal mounted up on top, I gave it a 10/7/4 versus infantry and 4/-/- versus vehicles (it’s hurt a 222 but not a panzer). In it’s combat mode it has the Fire and Fade (2) ability since it was often a recon unit. When this game finally had artillery pieces besides a few tanks I’d give it the “forward observer” ability too.
I’m unsure of to charge for it in it’s combat mode though. Do I make it cost about the same as a Sd Kfz 222? Hrmmm. I dunno.
Of course, the .50 cal on a jeep was used as AA fire too, so once planes come out this bad boy might be a good unit to have on the field…
Opinions?
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In general, you’ll spend less money on a game like this than something like Flames of War.
As I look over at my unpainted, unused FoW models I can only sigh and agree. :)
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