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    2. GrimJesta
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    Posts made by GrimJesta

    • RE: What's Your Favorite 2-Unit Combo?

      I’ve been  playing with that very combo m’self, and it’s expensive but nasty. I started playing with 3 mortars, but now I toned it down to 2 mortars and a spotter. As long as we don’t use planes they last a decent length of time… it bears mentioning that I use Der Leiter’s rule about “chatting on the radio” being an optional SA each turn, allowing the Spotter ro move if it gets rushed.

      -=Grim=-

      posted in Miniatures (Original)
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      GrimJesta
    • RE: Axis & Allies Miniatures Set 4: D-Day

      I could weep I’m so happy to see that frickin’ HLC! Ah man, I’m so stoked! I think it’s total BS that it’s a rare though…

      -=Grim=-

      posted in Miniatures (Original)
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      GrimJesta
    • RE: Just a quick question

      The miniatures on the checklist are all of the miniatures that came out for that set. Each of the three sets out have their own checklist. You have to buy Booster Packs of more miniatures to get there. Where you bought the game itself ought to have the boosters as well. As for the maps, I fold them in the opposite direction of their crease and they stay perfectly flat. All it takes is a few folds. There’s other maps out there, and you can start with the Wizards of the Coast website: they release scenarios and new maps to play with every month I believe (maybe it’s every 2 months).

      To find a bunch of maps and other forums that discuss this game, Click Here. That’s where alot of people get their new maps. I’d suggest getting a second Starter Set just to have enough maps, since the 4 they give you isn’t enough to play on (in my opinion, but we also play 150 to 300 point battles instead of 100).

      I hope this helped some.

      -=Grim=-

      Edit: Just to clarify, I mean that each set has its own checklist of totally different miniatures. Set I, II, and III all have completely different (but compatable) miniatures.

      posted in Miniatures (Original)
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      GrimJesta
    • RE: What's Your Favorite 2-Unit Combo?

      I just want to quote myself here, since this is technically a game/challenge.

      @GrimJesta:

      …but I’m curious as to what your favorite multiple unit tactic is not including commanders or transports like jeeps and halftracks. Part of the beauty of this game is coming up with a nasty, sneaky combination move. But it doesn’t have to be sneaky; it can be obvious… all that matters is that it’s effective.

      No transports. No commanders. That’s the trick.  :mrgreen:

      -=Grim=-

      posted in Miniatures (Original)
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      GrimJesta
    • RE: What's Your Favorite 2-Unit Combo?

      @djensen:

      The absolute most broken is the Cossack Captain on the KV-1.

      Oi, the rule was no transports or commanders… cheater.  :-D :-D

      -=Grim=-

      posted in Miniatures (Original)
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      GrimJesta
    • What's Your Favorite 2-Unit Combo?

      I’ve noticed that alot of units in Set III have some cool abilities, especially when coupled with other units’ special abilities or stats. Set I and II also have quite a few. Everyone knows about the Commander types affecting the battlefield, but I’m curious as to what your favorite multiple unit tactic is not including commanders or transports like jeeps and halftracks. Part of the beauty of this game is coming up with a nasty, sneaky combination move. But it doesn’t have to be sneaky; it can be obvious… all that matters is that it’s effective.

      My favorites:

      • MG-42 + Brumbar: I’ve noticed that MG-42s are great at disruption, almost always doing so if they don’t outright kill. With two shots they can hit two separate units in a hex. The Brumbar, with it’s blast ability, also hits every unit in a hex. A tactic I’ve been messing with lately is fielding a Brumbar and an MG-42 on each side of the field. When enemy infantry tries to sneak up the flanks, I drop a Brumbar shell on them… BOOM! The MG-42 then comes into play: if anything survives the Brumbar, even if it’s both guys in the hex, the MG can fire on both of them, almost always scoring that needed second hit. And if the Brumbar does the job beforehand I have the MG-42 free to disrupt (and thus pin) the enemy so that the Brumbar can fire on them next round.

      It’s a nice combo thus far, especially if I position them where the middle of the field can’t fire on them.

      -=Grim=-

      posted in Miniatures (Original)
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      GrimJesta
    • RE: Printing maps

      Now I have to make a decision… buy a crapload of T-34s and Mosin-Nagants and start my Red Hordes, or print up new maps. It’s a hard decision, that’s for sure.

      -=Grim=-

      posted in Miniatures (Original)
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      GrimJesta
    • RE: How long Does your game Last?

      I’ve found that past 300 points the games all run around the same amount of time. I think it might have something to do with the fact that the game starts wrapping up at turn 7 regardless… otherwise, I dunno. But the 350 and 450 point games all ran the same amount of time as the 3 hour game: 3 1/2 hours. Which was way too long. Hehhehe. Usually the standard 200 point games we play last around 2 hours, or a little bit more if there’s a rules hitch or joking around instead of playing.

      -=Grim=-

      posted in Miniatures (Original)
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      GrimJesta
    • RE: Printing maps

      Dude, I had no idea about that. So lemme get this straight: this is basically emailing or forwarding what you need printed to the Kinkos instead of having to go all the way there (the nearest one is a bit distant in my area)? If that’s the case, that’s frickin’  beautiful. The main reason I haven’t printed out the new maps is for the same reasons you haven’t.

      You’re an everflowing font of Axis and Allies Miniatures knowledge…  :-D

      -=Grim=-

      posted in Miniatures (Original)
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      GrimJesta
    • RE: Spotters: Do They Die Too Easily?

      @Der:

      As a House Rule I’ve changed Chatting on the Radio to be optional; if you chose not to use it then for the rest of the turn you can’t use the Spotter SA and don’t count as a spotter.

      I played using this rule and it worked amazingly. The FO units acted like real Recce units: they moved around alot, skulking about, and calling in the artillery strikes as needed. Excellent house rule, dude.

      -=Grim=-

      posted in Miniatures (Original)
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      GrimJesta
    • RE: Belated Intro

      Agreed. Commanders would be a bit much unless the scale of the game was increased. I can’t imagine Rommel leading anything other than the entirety of the Afrika Corps, or Patton anything other than VII Army, Monty with VIII Army. I would imagine those to be 300-350 point armies at the least. But people would revolt if commanders like that were introduced, unless they kept them low-key like the generals in Flames of War.

      -=Grim=-

      posted in Miniatures (Original)
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      GrimJesta
    • RE: New to the game, what to do?

      Oh man, I hope he gives you a Tiger I or an IS-2 (if you plan on doing those Reds!) for that Croc. The Croc is one of the best units in the game for the Allies, at least in my humble opinion. It’s cheap and nasty and most Allied armies use it. Yea, that dude owes you some good stuff!

      :-o

      -=Grim=-

      posted in Miniatures (Original)
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      GrimJesta
    • RE: New to the game, what to do?

      That’s all a matter of preference. If you never want to play Allies, then trade them off. If you do, keep them.

      If you do trade them, make sure they’re fair trades. This means that you might get stuck with a few Allied pieces for a while or something, but then again you might not care about even trades and just hand over all your Allied for your friend’s Axis.

      -=Grim=-

      posted in Miniatures (Original)
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      GrimJesta
    • RE: Modeling Techniques: Removing Paint

      That’s actually really helpful, since I’ve decided to repaint a crapload of A&AM models. My first project is my German halftracks… I hate them in Afrika Corp colors! So I’m going to do them up in grey, possibly with a grey-black-white camo scheme, but maybe not. My biggest concern was painting over the existing paint since I didn’t want to lose any of the details sculpted into the model.

      Awesome tip. Thanks.

      -=Grim=-

      posted in Miniatures Painting & Modeling
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      GrimJesta
    • RE: Transport and Cover

      @Rikolus:

      That’s funny Grim, because our group has also been playing that the attacker has to roll 4+ afterwards to destroy the transported unit.  However, if it survives, we do put an immediate face-up Disruption marker on that unit (which gets removed of course at end of the turn if he’s still around…)    But we were not aware of the HHR you mention.
          Is it one composite set of suggested optional rules?    If so, could you post where the HHR would be found?

      Ask And Ye Shall Receive

      @Rikolus:

      1)  Hidden Deployment.  After agreeing on the map and Objective hex, we put a divider through the middle and set up forces having no idea what the opponent will select or where he’ll deploy.

      We used to do that for Warhammer and Flames of War, but now we use pennies we painted white and marked with the name of the unit underneath. This is so that we can play with a Fog of War sometimes as well, since we can move them around the board and the enemy still not know what’s there until LoS is determined. It’s cool for night battles too (or a good ol’ fashioned “dawn raid”).

      @Rikolus:

      2)  Four Hexes In, instead of Five.  Seems rather small and innocuous, but after a couple plays, everyone agrees that the advance into combat is more strategic and interesting with that two extra hex separation.  To make up for it, we play you can win on Turn 7, but game ends after T 11 (instead of 10).

      We play on 8 maps (I bought a second starter just for more maps) and up to 3 hexes in. The tactical maneuvers before any shots are fired are way more complex than the 5 hexes on 4 map pieces. Blegh.

      @Rikolus:

      3)  Paratroopers cannot land in Forest Hexes.

      We play with a rule that a Paratrooper must “target” a hex. On a 4+ he lands in the hex he wanted to land in. On a 1-6 he lands in an adjacent hex (it’s a hex and the game uses a d6, so it’s easy to determine where he lands). If he lands in a forest he lands disrupted. If he lands in a lake he’s removed from the game.

      -=Grim=-

      posted in Miniatures (Original)
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      GrimJesta
    • RE: Complaint about Set 3

      Most of these suggestions would go well with the House Rules sets on the other A&AM forums; most of the sets have one common idea when it comes to planes: only units with the SA: Anti-Air should be able to shoot them. Me? I think MGs should too, but that’s just me. But a Garand shooting down a Stuka? Silly. Infantry never did enough damage to planes to warrant how easy it is in the game rules.

      From the HHR:

      Air Rules

      HHR uses the Flak Only Rule. Only Flak and other planes can shoot at planes. The four flak units so far are

      1. the 20mm Flak 38
      2. the Quad 50
      3. the Bofors 40mm
      4. the Wirbelwind

      The Luftwaffe Inf has been stripped of its AA ability, further changes subject to a full review of that unit (coming shortly). Although the Wirbelwind hasn’t been formally reviewed, we have already voted to give it Double Shot. Any other units that are going to be recognized as Flak units are either future releases or may be introduced on a case by case basis.

      All Flak units get a 4 hex zone of defensive fire. During defensive fire, if a flak unit scores a disruption on a plane, and rolls 3 sixes while doing so, then the plane is Aborted and is immediately removed from the map to the off map area with a face up disrupted counter. It may come back onto the map the following turn with its face up disruption counter if the owning player so desires.

      Yes, the Soviets don’t have a dedicated AA unit – but their standard AA gun was a knockoff of the Bofors weapon.

      From DerickRL’s House Rules (different than HHR):

      Aircraft:
      When attacking aircraft, all ground units, without the SA: Anti-Air, use their long range infantry attack as a medium range attack, and their medium range attack as their short range attack(with -1 to each die). No long range attacks against aircraft are available to units without the Anti-Air SA.

      All soldier units get +1 on each die to cover rolls from aircraft in town or forest hexes.

      All short and medium range hexes are considered to be adjacent for purposes of defensive fire attacks against aircraft by Anti-Air units

      Artillery & Assault gun’s can not attack aircraft unless they have the SA: Anti-Air.

      All units with SA’s: Blast and/or Bombardment cannot attack aircraft.

      I think a mix of the two would be nice, since I like HHR’s, but I also like how in the latter units get +1 cover in towns and forests vs. planes.

      -=Grim=-

      posted in Miniatures (Original)
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      GrimJesta
    • RE: Custom painted peices

      What he did that impressed me most was:

      1. Adding soldiers into the halftracks and repainting the whole models.

      2. Adding soldiers to the artillery pieces and repainting the hell out of 'em.

      3. His Jeeps… oh the Jeeps…

      I wish he lived next door to me. I’d shoot him with a tazer and drag him into my closet-turned-painting station. Then I’d shout things like “It puts the lotion in the basket! It does what its told!” under the door.

      :lol: :lol:

      -=Grim=-

      posted in Miniatures (Original)
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      GrimJesta
    • RE: Suggested builds and stratagy for a 150 point axis army

      @argarus:

      i personally take a para or 2.

      The German paratroopers came out!?! I keep throwing out my friggin’ list each time I buy a set III box, so this is quite a serious question.

      Anyway, the Oberlt. is really one of my favorite commanders right now. I wound up scoring him in my first set III booster, so I got lucky. He shows up in every game now (much to my chagrin).

      -=Grim=-

      posted in Miniatures (Original)
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      GrimJesta
    • RE: Spotters: Do They Die Too Easily?

      Keep in mind that I play historical armies, so the Red Army spotter isn’t an option for me unfortunately. Heck, I don’t even have the MAerican one technically, but we use the regular jeeps as spotters. But they die like there’s no tomorrow. And people target them like they’re the objective of the game, not that little white disk! Sure, that one turn that they draw some fire is nice, but an MG42 or two will put a stop to your mortars firing behind cover REL quick. Then you have to spend time moving your mortars up, where they’re promptly whipped. Argh!

      Considering how Recce worked in WWII, I might actually give them a camoflauge ability similiar to the snipers (if not exactly the same); maybe it’ll not work against planes or something, just to shake it up a bit. Mental note: playtest this next game.

      -=Grim=-

      posted in Miniatures (Original)
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      GrimJesta
    • RE: Transport and Cover

      I’ve become a big fan of the HHR version of transports, in that the unit is destroyed on a 4+ if the transport is destroyed. It makes it less devastating and more unpredictable. Which we like.

      :)

      -=Grim=-

      posted in Miniatures (Original)
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      GrimJesta
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