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    Posts made by Granada

    • RE: 100 IPC Sea Battle

      The question is so funny it reminds me of a joke. On the quiet Black Sea surface there is a Soviet cruiser. The captain calmly walks the deck and watches the horizon. Than he comes coolly to the deck phone and yells into it: “How much?” After a while a response comes from the underdeck: “Fourty!” The captain bobs his head with a renascent calm and resorts to walking the deck again. After a while he shakes his head and returns to the deck phone to yell: “And what Fourty?” The response comes again after a while: “And what how much?”

      So given the nature of your question, I think I would get myself 16 subs and for the rest an art to be deployed on the banks of the sea to watch and enjoy what my subs would do with your aforementioned fleets.  :mrgreen:

      posted in Axis & Allies Spring 1942 Edition
      G
      Granada
    • RE: The Norwegian Gambit

      @MrMalachiCrun <br:< small=“”>> It would be an interesting game to review.  You guys played on TripleA I guess?  I just installed tripleA but have yet to do anything with it other than play with the user interface.  It seems there is no way to download saved files for games that are complete?  If this is the case, the game file for this would be interesting and educational to review.

      I am still undecided on this as a ‘typical opening move’.  Personally, I tend to avoid tactics that require the allies to commit to fixed moves in the future to support said tactic only as it limits flexibility.  Obviously, many situations require and benefit from this future commitment, however, telegraphing allied future moves does have its pitfalls.

      If Hobbes can tell me how to post a file here I can attach the complete game. Or alternatively, if you see me at TripleA, I can open the file there for you to save.

      I dont think NG limits your options in terms of further moves. I do go after Japan if there is an opportunity. But I really wanted to try a classic KGF on Hobbes.

      @Hobbes:

      @Granada:

      Had I recognized the danger i would have put 2UK dds SZ6 which of course would cover the US fleet sufficiently for the J4 and after moving the US ships to SZ5 the joint fleet would be unsinkable for the rest of the game. This would cost me the 2dds of course. But with Germany forced the leave UKR because of the R Cauc stack, removed of water and expelled from Africa, with the Atlantic shack of 16 Units a turn rolling, Africa in Allied hands and Japan only starting to contest it and still several rounds from Mosc, I felt a I had a real chance. But after the ships SZ6 went down the pressure was lost.

      I agree with most points, but I kinda saw things a bit differently - G had to pull back from Ukr, but I wasn’t planning to hold it much longer. I had already thought of retreating on G3, I only kept there to prevent the Russians from going after the Japanese IC on India. All together, from the Axis point of view I was doing good - W. Eur, E. Eur and G were stacked against any Allied landing, Japs had taken Novo/Kazakh/Evenki and the IC on India was starting to pump units while the fleet was positioned to recontest Africa.

      Grenada could have bought the 2 DDs to protect the US fleet on SZ6 but he’d only have 8 IPCs left for UK ground units.  Considering that G was building 10+ units each turn this would mean that the UK was falling behind the German buildup.  I think that it is also another important factor since the Allies need to have sufficient offensive power and the UK ended up buying a lot of infantry, during this phase of the game, to be able to build 8 units which afterwards limited its attacking options.

      Well, I am happy to see we both were happy with our positions. The UK was a bit lighter on units primarly because I have built 4 trns a top the one i had SZ2 which i think is handy, because it increases the pressure on the Germans. After the 2dd build R4 there would be only 8IPCs left true, true, but there would be two more units coming from EC. So that is 4 UK units for R5 and 8 from R6 on. Also US shack would start hitting Europe with 4inf, 4tnk only R6 so that is not such a big deal.

      But you are right. In nutshell you did very well in forcing me to build more protection ships than I really wanted. It leads me to a conclusion I need to review the process of managing the Atlantic traffic a bit because I of course do not want to buy extra dds R4 in the first place. And I think I have some ideas on that already.

      As for contesting UKR with R, lots of armour would not got G out of ukr, I checked that already. It seems G really can keep UKR R1-3 if he really wants it even if R buys all arm R2. But that should not be such a trouble unless the J figs get the chance to hit too light allied fleet R4.

      But we will test that someday again, I am sure  :-D</br:<>

      posted in Axis & Allies Spring 1942 Edition
      G
      Granada
    • RE: The Norwegian Gambit

      @Hobbes:

      Well, me and Grenada had a great game last night where he used the Norwegian Gambit.

      I replied with a 5 inf, 5 arm buy, took Caucasus (along with the other usual attacks) but then stacked Ukraine with 7 inf, 6 arm and 2 ftrs (1 of them Japanese, flying from Indochina). With the Japanese fighter the odds turned 75% for axis, without them they were even.

      The Germans then kept the stack on Ukraine until G4, with the help of the Japanese airforce, with the Russian army tied up in defending Caucasus while the Japanese advanced on Asia. I liked this solution because it pins down the Russians while denying them the income from Ukraine. Losing Caucasus on the first turn limits Russia for turns 2 and 3 because they have to retake it and can’t build anything until turn 3, which helps in keeping the German stack there.

      In any case, the game lasted until turn 12! Great game :)

      This is funny, there was a warning, there was a new post while I was typing mine. I should have guessed this would be your report on the very same game!  :-D

      posted in Axis & Allies Spring 1942 Edition
      G
      Granada
    • RE: The Norwegian Gambit

      Well, this could maybe go to the “Why I lost to Hobbes” thread, but since I lost with my very favourite Norwegian gambit I think I should share the experience here.

      I think Hobbes would agree I did not lose because of the Norwegian gambit. Actually I believe it gave me very good position in the opening. But Hobbes as you would expect of him reacted deftly stacking UKR and using it as the airport for the japanese air so he did have 5figs and bmb at J3 there. Since I wanted to prove I really can move SZ5 R4, I did it without realizing that the jap air can kill my SZ6 US fleet consisting of cru, dd, AC, 2 fig and 4 trn and land on WEU. A silly mistake.

      Had I recognized the danger i would have put 2UK dds SZ6 which of course would cover the US fleet sufficiently for the J4 and after moving the US ships to SZ5 the joint fleet would be unsinkable for the rest of the game. This would cost me the 2dds of course. But with Germany forced the leave UKR because of the R Cauc stack, removed of water and expelled from Africa, with the Atlantic shack of 16 Units a turn rolling, Africa in Allied hands and Japan only starting to contest it and still several rounds from Mosc, I felt a I had a real chance. But after the ships SZ6 went down the pressure was lost.

      There is a point for a startegic discussion though: Is there a way for Russians to prevent Germany from considering UKR a safe place R1-3 in the Norwegian gambit?

      Hobbes of course was more skillful in the midgame and won R11 taking mosc with japs while berlin really was not really threatened. But it was a good game nevertheless.

      posted in Axis & Allies Spring 1942 Edition
      G
      Granada
    • RE: Lets talk Germany Round 1

      @Paulzy:

      Since G1 has been comming up lets revive this post for interested parties.  Some good ideas and strats on this thread.

      Questions speaking in the language of Dice.

      1. Is sz2 still the best option ?… if G looses this battle to a competent Allied player it is potentially devistating, furthermore; some believe The Norweigan Gambit R1 is the way to go.  Effectively eliminating the sz2 attack.

      2. Could attacking sz10 be worth comparing odds and values to the sz2 attack ?  Some think this a huge G advantage and still this move seems not so popular, why?

      3. Attack sz1 sub remains for G2.

      If G looses either sz2/sz10 battle uk/usa will not loose a tranny.

      This is dice … anything can and will happen.

      Thoughts ?

      I think I can give you a feedback, since in my Norwegian gambit games i tend to leave my oponents just with the three options: SZ1 UK sub, SZ10 US cru + 2 trn, SZ 13 UK cru.

      Interestingly enough, even if I sometimes fail to kill the norwegian fig R R1, I see only about 50 % of the attack on the SZ2 UK BB. I see those doubts here too and I am amazed to be honest because this is the best attack by far of the four options. You have 91 % to win. You inflict demage of 27 to UK, you usually lose 16. What a trade! You will not have many chances like this in course of the game with a good player.

      Out of the other three options, people usually do either SZ1 trannie, or use the sub to support the attack on SZ13. I see very little SZ10.

      Personally I think it might be because US player quite often sends the 2trn suicidal to Africa which shows that US does not really need those trannies that much to be effective. The US economy is huge and replenishes loses with relative ease. Since UK economy is much tighter it appears to be more effecient to inflict demages on UK.

      Hence Germany player risks more by avoiding the 100 % secure kill of the SZ1 trannie then by the very fact of 50 % chance of not killing anything in the SZ 10 attack. In other words the SZ10 atack is not just 50 % chance of losing the sub. Anybody would be willing to take the risk on its own I guess because it is 50 % you lose 6 value of units vs. 50 % killing 26 value of units if this was the only option for the sub. But avoiding the other options with much better odds is what really matters.

      Also in the case of succesful Norwegian gambit Russians have 1-3 units Nor, 1-2 units Kar, a unit Cauc and a stack on WR. So Germany needs 1-2 air AE, 1-2 air Nor, 1 air Kar if it does not want to start trading tanks R1 and we are not talking about an extra fig to give cover for the BB SZ15. So at the end you often see the Germany player being forced to use in fact the sub on the cru SZ13 because he is not willing to send only two figs which might really turn terribly ugly for G – just three misses on 3 and two hits of the defence on 3 and the game is almost over since the cru will then take a part in the immediate killing of BB and after a retake of AE Germany presence in Africa is gone together with 3 of its starting figs.

      Thus you really see sending the sub SZ13 many times.

      To sum it up, my advice for the G sub SZ8 would be:

      1. Always attack the SZ 2 UK BB (provided of course you give the cover to the bmb and fig off Nor).
      2. If you can send 3figs SZ 13, go to kill SZ1 trn.
      3. If you only send 2 fig SZ 13, go to give them the cover.

      posted in Axis & Allies Spring 1942 Edition
      G
      Granada
    • RE: Allies Strategy - SZ 5

      I did a little count of the most favourable standard situation for Axis. This would be 2bmb 5figs Germany and 1bmb 5 figs jap in WEU R4. Still against the fleet of bb, 2dd, cru, 2AC, 4fig it gives just 4 % to the combined attack if UK is able to send an extra fig to reinforce between the G and J moves which is likely and 20 % chance if you cannot reinforce the fleet at all.

      The thing is Germany with all its planes has just 1 % chance to win with 6 allied units remaining, this of course would be 2AC,3fig and bb. Now tell me, would be a reasonable Germany player willing to risk all luftwaffe for creating 4 % chance of sinking the fleet? Surely not, a reasonable Axis would not attack.

      Od course things may change significantly with a 2bmb German buy R5 which might look like turning the SZ5 into a trap for the allies. But still all the UK needs to do is to keep itself 4 extra figs then. If Germans would be bullish enough to send 4bmb and 5fig against your aforementioned fleet they would help themselves to manic 18 % chance of winning with 2.91 units of defenders remaining. If the defender just takes care of the fact that the 2 last units alive are his ACs and lands 4 UK figs there Japs would have just 39 % chance of winning with 5fig and bmb then.

      In the absolutely worst case scenario there are various opportunities for a reasonable retreat sacrificing some of the UK ships in the process. I will not go into much details but trust me it can be done safely without losing more then the 2 UK dds most of the times.

      Still worse for Axis: if Norway goes to US which I will try to do from now on, US can build an IC on Nor R5 in case Gerrys do a 2bmb build so that US could put a ship if necassary to SZ5 directly. The 3fig buy with UK and IC buy with US should make SZ5 safe for the rest of even the most competitive game. But honestly here it gets a bit speculative since in a typical KGF R5 German player has ussually not a remotest chance to dream of buying something so sumptous as 2bmbs.

      As Zhuk mentioned the UK BB really makes all the difference which is of course the logic behind the Norwegian gambit: to get Allies into SZ5 as soon as possible.

      :mrgreen:

      posted in Axis & Allies Spring 1942 Edition
      G
      Granada
    • RE: Allies Strategy - SZ 5

      @MrMalachiCrunch:

      Germany can defend WEu without too much trouble in the face of 8 allied transports.  4-6 Jap fighters and 4 german fighters and about a dozen infantry roughly without looking at a battle calc should do it.

      You are absolutely correct.  I do it myslef this way if I can. This is the famous Hobbes’ Fortress Europe after all. But can you make it there with 4-6 jap fighters by R3? The thing is that WEU might be in danager of a heavy attack as soon as R3, sometimes even R2. If you are able to allocate sufficient inf on WEU and Berlin at the same time it should mean you are not that strong with air and also it must be a huge relief in Moscow to see a dozen inf on the Atlantic coast. And it should not be any risk to leave your trannies SZ 2 with the cover of the US BB anyway, possibly with a cover of 1-2 dds. The thing is it is never a problem to give the ships SZ 2 extra cover with UK if needed since it plays after Germany.

      Moreover Allies usually should not offload heavy at WEU anyway, the aim is to trade WEU not to take it because you are likely to be anihilated without a chance to retake by a good Axis player. It is much better to offload NOR-KAR-EE thus incresing pressure because you combine the units from previous rounds with the newly offloaded. And by creating a stronghold in KAR you also position yourself to help russians if needed.

      If you are that strong in WEU with inf R3-4, surely it must be safe for Allies to offload safely NOR or even KAR. Once they reinforce there with just one more offload, there is nothing pushing them out.
      :mrgreen:

      So it is always a matter of choices. While I do agree it is possible for Axis to keep WEU long into the game and I agree it is a way to go in most cases, I cannot see this stopping Allies getting SZ5 R4-5.

      posted in Axis & Allies Spring 1942 Edition
      G
      Granada
    • RE: Allies Strategy - SZ 5

      @LMD:

      I saw a recent post suggesting SZ 5 is the best place for UK landings in Europe.  However, even if the UK battleship survives Round 1 and even if UK buys an AC and 2 destroyers, it seems like a very long time before UK has a large enough navy to do this.  Can anyone comment on what your navy typically looks like to make this work?  If Germany is buying a fighter or bomber every other round or so, this UK navy will need a lot more naval support and leaves Germany the option of leaving its air force just about anywhere it wants.  Conversely, if UK focuses landings through Norway, Germany is forced to divert its air force to Western Europe, which also helps keep the air force away from Russia.

      The recent post was mine I guess. In most of my games when I play KGF I have the Allied fleet in SZ5 in R4 or R5. The trick is that I play Norwegian gambit which preserves the UK BB SZ2. I never move SZ5 without the US covering and without 4 Uk + 4 US trannies in the fleet. A possible round by round development can be as follows:

      1. UK Buy AC, 2dd,  US buy AC 3trn,

      2. UK buys 2-3 trn or moves SZ12 and buys land units, US buys 2trn, to meet SZ 10 with the bb and the trn off Pacific. US merges the 5 trn, AC, dd, cru with the UK fleet at SZ12 or SZ 8 or moves it SZ 1 or moves there just the AC and dd in case the cru operates with UK fleet since R1 already.

      3. UK completes the 4 trn and positions the fleet in SZ 3, 6, or 7 and should have gets units on Norway or/and WEU if the opportunity opens. In any case there should be 8 land units UK/Nor. US comes to merge with the uk fleet with AC, dd, cru nad 4 trn and lands 8 units on Norway too. The US BB and other 4 trn should be SZ 1 and 2.

      4. At the beginning of UK4 you have to do the evaluation of the Aixs air power. Germany should be out of water by now. Typically they would have 2bmb and 5 figs. Say you lost one dd sinking the Gerry subs. So your fleet consists of BB, 2AC, cru, 2dd, 4 fig (and 8 trn). That would give germans exactly 0 % chance to sink it if it moves SZ5. So there is no chance sinking this fleet even with some Japan air covering.

      Provided G has nothing on the sea, Germany would need 6figs and 4bmb to increase the chance of sinking your fleet to 39 % And 7 figs and 4bmb gives them 64 % finally. This would of course require 68 IPCs on air provided only 1 fig was lost R1 which is rather rare. This means Germany is 23-26 inf weaker then it would be otherwise or 19-23 less  (provided the 1 bmb buy is pretty standard). This on the other hand means Russians most likely have stacked UKR or KAR.

      And there is no rush for the allies who can easily wait for the US BB and/or build an extra AC. In case there are 2 bbs in the fleet G would need 5bmb and 8 figs to prvent it from moving SZ5 R5 and if there is the extra loaded AC which everybody would build seeing such a obsesion with air in Berlin Germany would need 10 fig and 5 bmb to give itself nice 43 %.

      In other words there is no way of stopping a good allied player going SZ5 R4 or R5 if this is his priority and keeps the UK bb alive on R1 which is what i discussed in the article on Norwegian gambit.

      If you have 16 allied land units on norway/UK with 8trn in the fleet, G should not consider WEU a safe place for its bmbs so you have no trouble operating the second supporting US fleet of four trannies SZ 1-2 WITHOUT ANY COVER at all. From R5 on Allies can be pumping 16 units a turn to Europe.  :mrgreen:

      posted in Axis & Allies Spring 1942 Edition
      G
      Granada
    • RE: Unofficial spring '42 league

      @Zhukov44:

      This is all very interesting…I’m not terribly intuitive when it comes to math so I’ll have to try come back with a pot of coffee and digest all this.

      To people who use or might use the Spring 42 league…would you prefer if you just use a numerical ranking system for competition instead of W/L records?

      Naturally the nice thing about an automated ladder is it does the math for us.  But if it’s not TOO much maintenance then maybe we can do the math for ourselves until somebody comes along and programs an automated ladder system for us.

      This also reminds me of a post Bung made recently in the TripleA War Club where he was interested in created a global A&A rankings system that went beyond just TripleA, but would incorporate the data from all the clubs.

      I am definitely willing to prepare the illustration of how the rating might work with the manual counting after lets say first 20-30 games of the league are played and at least ten players are involved.

      posted in Axis & Allies Spring 1942 Edition
      G
      Granada
    • RE: Does Japan need to be house ruled to weaken them?

      I have experimented with going after Japan in several recent games. Although I still consider my startegy far from perfect – Pacific is really messy! – I think Japan can be really squeezed into corner quite easily, but there has to be one condition met. And this is at least one of the battles does not go for the Japan well.

      If Japan fails Pearl or does it heavy and loses some ships, or has very light presence in China or – most often – exposes some of its ships to counters, there are two stretegies you can really follow with success: 1. US IC build on Sink R1 and UK IC build on India R2 plus naval buys US or 2. just naval buys US which is the way to go if Japan lost or is about to lose 2 of its capital ships.

      If Japan does not make mistakes R1 and does not hit bad luck though, I think it is very difficult to break it. But then still you can slow it most of the times sufficiently to get to Berlin the same round japs get to mosc which should be sufficient.

      Japan definitely does not need to be house ruled to weaken them.

      posted in Axis & Allies Spring 1942 Edition
      G
      Granada
    • RE: Unofficial spring '42 league

      @Bunnies:

      Regardless, the game winner should report whether Axis or Allies were used by the winner, if a bid, to whom and for how much, and whether Low Luck or dice - that, and date.  Tracking these statistics by player matchup is the only thing that’s going to support claims that Axis or Allies have an advantage, and we may as well keep good records considering it isn’t much more trouble.

      I do agree on this.

      @Bunnies:

      @Granada:  Re:  “publishing a new complete ladder” - what’s the rush, Gran?   Sounds like you really wanna get moving on this!  Also, what was that about a “perfect world”?  I think you meant to reprimand me for something, but I’m afraid I missed your meaning.

      What I meant was, that unless you have computer doing it for you, you have to do it yourself. So lets say we would start a thread here called Bunny and Granny Unofficial Ladder. As the start you would publish the starting ladder after lets say first 50 league games are included and counted. After then, when any two players would play a game, they would count the points change themselves and include it into the the new ladder.

      So lets say you would be 3rd with 1250 points, I would be 14th with 1050 points, you would win so you would get 6 points plus and I would get 6 points less. We would post the outcome of the game, who played what, whether ther was a bid, LL etc… and we would include it into the new edition of ladder: Bunny ovecomes Zhuk with 1256 and moves to 2nd , while Granada gets down with 1044 to the 16th. Does it make sense?

      As for the other thing I did not want to “reprimand” you. I just say that it needlessly complicates things to squeeze two games into one result.

      @Bunnies:

      As far as FICS or whatnot - I’m TOTALLY AGAINST IT.  Weak players will be very popular as stronger players try to boost their ratings, and stronger players will have a harder time finding opponents.  Any rating system that always rewards a winner with points risks this happening.

      This is correct. It can be resolved easily by including a ninth category, that in fact is included in the FICS counting – when the difference between the players is so large that if you win as the stronger player you get 0 points, while when you lose, you lose 16; with your opponent’s rating changing respectively.

      So after this change the proposed system would look like this:

      1. difference less then 40. Winner 8 / Loser 8.
      2. difference 41-100. A. Higher ranked player wins: Winner +7 / Loser -7 B. Lower ranked player wins: Winner 9 / Loser -9.
      3. difference 101-180. A. Winner 6 / Loser -6; B. Winner 10 / Loser -10.  
      4. difference 181-280. A. Winner 5 / Loser -5; B. Winner 11 / Loser -11.
      5. difference 281-400. A. Winner 4 / Loser -4; B. Winner 12 / Loser -12.
      6. difference 401-540. A. Winner 3 / Loser -3; B. Winner 13 / Loser -13.
      7. difference 541-700. A. Winner 2 / Loser -2; B. Winner 14 / Loser -14.
      8. difference 701-880 A. Winner 1 / Loser -1; B. Winner 15 / Loser -15.
      9. difference 881 and more. A. Winner 0 / Loser 0 B. Winner 16 / Loser - 16.

      Where the option A. describes the situation when the player with higher rating wins, while option B. describes the situation when the player with lower rating wins.

      I think it goes in the direction of the Elo-like chess rating system, but experts like Herr KaLeun must know much much more about this then I do. Would the system I propose make a sense to you?

      posted in Axis & Allies Spring 1942 Edition
      G
      Granada
    • RE: Unofficial spring '42 league

      @Bunnies:

      1.  The point changes count be calculated by computer instead of manually.

      In the perfect world, surely. The best would be of course if it is directly included in the TripleA software. But before we get there I don´t think there is a way to get this done in any different way, then just count it and publish a new complete ladder after every single game.

      @Bunnies:

      2.  I think each “match” should consist of two games, with a player playing BOTH Axis and Allies.  A win and a loss would count as a draw; two wins a win, two losses a loss.  This is to eliminate any bias from Axis or Allies being more powerful, and would help determine if there is a bias.  (If Axis win 75% of games in a large sample of first out of two games played, Axis might have an advantage) & so on.

      Bunny, please, dont make it more complex then it is necessary. People can always agree to play a revange game with altered sides.  That is what we did with Packers. Moreover, in the rules suggested by Zhuk, there is the bid option. I would say Allies and Axis is a bit like black and white pieces in the chess.

      But what do you people think of the 16 points a game counting system I suggested based on the experience with the FICS (Free Internet Chess Server)? Would not this be the easiest way for us to go before there is an official ladder?

      posted in Axis & Allies Spring 1942 Edition
      G
      Granada
    • RE: Unofficial spring '42 league

      Desertfox, many thanks for the effort. Is it the system used in the other ladders? Or where does the system come from? By doing some basic calculations, it leads me to following conclusions:

      1. The average rating of all players is increasing, which might lead to the conclusion that the handicap of players joining the ladder later will increase.

      2. The player with lower rating loses the more points the higher is the ranking of the player he plays.

      I know there is the 40 points gap but still it seems to me to go a bit against common sense.  When I sometimes play on the Free Internet Chess Server, the system works the other way round. Your ranking would always change within the margin of 16 points. And the sum is always 0. You lose exactly the same number points your oponent gains. The weaker the player you play the more points you can lose, the less you can take and vice versa.

      3. The proposed system is a bit difficult to carry out manually.

      As things stand at this point I am unfortunately still the only player to take part in all four league games. So I tried to apply your system on the four games I have played.

      1. game was Packersplus vs me
      2. game MikeWatroba vs me
      3. game Packersplus vs. me
      4. game Packersplus vs me

      By chance, I won all four games. It gave me really tough time to count all the changes in the Desert Fox rating.

      But I belive they went like this. 1. Granada 115. Packersplus 95; 2. Granada 130. MikeWatroba 93,5; 3. Granada 144,5, Packersplus 86,5; 4. Granada 158,15, Packersplus 78,85.

      I am sparing you the counting. And I do admit I might got something wrong. So soon my oponent might be deviding 108,15 by 2 getting really weird numbers at the end.

      This really leads me to a question whether a less complicated system of counting without a need to use decimal numbers would not serve us better.

      –-

      And hence coming back to the inspiration of the FICS system based on the rating difference between players, let me propose an alternative system:

      1. difference less then 40. Winner 8 / Loser 8, Draw 0.
      2. difference 41-80. A. Higher ranked player wins: Winner +7 / Loser -7 B. Lower ranked player wins: Winner 9 / Loser -9.
      3. difference 81-120. A. Winner 6 / Loser -6; B. Winner 10 / Loser -10.
      4. difference 121-160. A. Winner 5 / Loser -5; B. Winner 11 / Loser -11.
      5. difference 161-200. A. Winner 4 / Loser -4; B. Winner 12 / Loser -12.
      6. difference 201-240. A. Winner 3 / Loser -3; B. Winner 13 / Loser -13.
      7. difference 241-300. A. Winner 2 / Loser -2; B. Winner 14 / Loser -14.
      8. difference 301 and more. A. Winner 1 / Loser -1; B. Winner 15 / Loser -15.

      Or even better the rating zones should increase progressively, as follows, which reflects actually the real ratings change in stake:

      1. difference less then 40. Winner 8 / Loser 8.
      2. difference 41-100. A. Higher ranked player wins: Winner +7 / Loser -7 B. Lower ranked player wins: Winner 9 / Loser -9.
      3. difference 101-180. A. Winner 6 / Loser -6; B. Winner 10 / Loser -10.  
      4. difference 181-280. A. Winner 5 / Loser -5; B. Winner 11 / Loser -11.
      5. difference 281-400. A. Winner 4 / Loser -4; B. Winner 12 / Loser -12.
      6. difference 401-540. A. Winner 3 / Loser -3; B. Winner 13 / Loser -13.
      7. difference 541-700. A. Winner 2 / Loser -2; B. Winner 14 / Loser -14.
      8. difference 701 and more. A. Winner 1 / Loser -1; B. Winner 15 / Loser -15.

      Unless there is a specific condition for a draw set in the rules, there is no point in deciding what should be the ratings change when a draw occurs assuming there would be none.

      With this system it would be much easier to count manually. Coming back to the four games with everybody starting at 1000 points, it would be: 1. Granada 1008, Packersplus 992; 2. Granada 1016 MikeWatroba 992; 3. Granada 1024 Packersplus 984. 4. Granada 1032 Packersplus 976.

      So next time I would play Packers in case he wins, he would get 9 points and I would lose 9, while my win would bring me only 7 points and his loss would be 7 as well. If I happen to win my rating would get to 1041 so then anybody entering the ladder would play me for 9 points while having at stake only 7, oddly enough even Hobbes (unless we all agree that he, Zhuk and some other heavyweights should enter the ladder at 1500  :-D).

      This system is much easier to count, isnt it? It also keeps the avearge rating of all the players at 1000. The only problem is we really would need a database to keep a track of all the changes. But a way to bypass this would be to start a thread either here or at the TripleA Warclub where you would actually have to update the ladder standings after each and every game. This of course is possible, though not very practical.

      What do you think?

      posted in Axis & Allies Spring 1942 Edition
      G
      Granada
    • RE: My strategies for Spring 1942

      @Lufftwaffe:

      I have found that if the germans build gobs of infantry for the first 2-3 turns and then builds massive armies of tanks you can capture Moscow in 4-10 turns, espescially if Russia is foccused on Japan. With Japan I like to take out the american navy, capture india, and build a factory in Kwangtung. :-D

      Luftwaffe, come and join the tripleA community and test your strategy in some league or friendly games online. You will see that there are more secrets to the German and Russian strategies then buying infs and tnks.

      The catch of your strategy is that if you are only buying inf first turns you might lose countries and make less IPCs and come less strong against Russia that might be on the opposite stronger then it would be otherwise. Also if you are buying no air, the US/UK need not buy that much ships to cover their trannies and will come to Europe earlier. Do you do Anglo-Egypt R1? And yes, you will find Russia dealing with Germany during first rounds most of the games.

      posted in Axis & Allies Spring 1942 Edition
      G
      Granada
    • RE: Unofficial spring '42 league

      This is really funny. I wrote a short note informing about the Zhuk’s precious effort to get the league going with a link to the TriplaA War Club respective page, but the message was marked as a spam… Now in the Spring 1942 forum, it appears I have posted the last message in this thread, but you cannot really see it, while in the list of all forums it looks like the last post is there from Bunny on the German Air buys – which really is the last one you can read.

      Is is it a principle here that any post with a link is marked as a spam?

      posted in Axis & Allies Spring 1942 Edition
      G
      Granada
    • RE: Unofficial spring '42 league

      @Granada:

      The league was created by Zhukov: http://www.tripleawarclub.org/modules/newbb/viewforum.php?forum=16. Unfortunately I am the only one to post results so far. I really think it is essential for promotion of V4 to get the league properly started. So please join in.

      Could anybody explain to me, please, why this post was “flagged as spam”?

      posted in Axis & Allies Spring 1942 Edition
      G
      Granada
    • RE: Unofficial spring '42 league

      The league was created by Zhukov: http://www.tripleawarclub.org/modules/newbb/viewforum.php?forum=16. Unfortunately I am the only one to post results so far. I really think it is essential for promotion of V4 to get the league properly started. So please join in.

      posted in Axis & Allies Spring 1942 Edition
      G
      Granada
    • RE: How to know when to buy air as Germany

      @Zhukov44:

      Not all players have the same vocab for these factors.

      Let’s say you’ve got 4 inf 4 art 4 arm (48) up against 16 inf (48 ipc).  Attacker only wins 14.6%.

      I can get 7 inf 3 art 3 arm for the same price.  Not as many attack units, 3 less punch, but the scew and count are more favorable.  With this combo, my odds increase to 16.5%.

      This is actually a very good AAA puzzle. What is the best skewed 48 IPC unit to get highest possible likelihood of winning, and what are the least IPCs for a unit to win the fight?

      Trying to solve that puzzle gives you a clue how great really the Caspian Sub people were in understanding the subleties of the game. The count really is most important. Then comes punch. And then the skew which is almost as important asthe punch in general and even more important then the punch in the big battles lasting many rolls of dice.

      So the puzzle is solved I think this way:

      It is really funny you most likely stand the best chance if you got 48 IPCs with 9 inf, 4 art, 1 tnk against 16 inf.

      And I think the cheapest way to get you over 50 % is: 9inf, 5art, 2tnk: 57 IPC and 55 %. It is also 16 units and only 9 IPCs more.

      EDIT: Changed wrong 8 to correct 9, sorry.

      posted in Axis & Allies Discussion & Older Games
      G
      Granada
    • RE: How to know when to buy air as Germany

      The classic buy R1 with gerrys is: bmb, 2tnk, 6inf. There is not much to add to the brilliant explantaion of Zhuk. You make UK/US worried about their ships while you have easy time trading with russians. Depending the agressivity of russians i might even buy 2bmb. I do if russia does only WR.

      I am really not happy Germany player before I have 3 bmbs plus 6 figs. I also try to preserve the 2 German subs starting SZ5 as long as possible. I move SZ7 R1 and possibly SZ13 R2 and might even move them SZ 14 later on id my bb still lives. I really do not like to buy ships with germany, although there might be special cases when i do. But I am really trying not to lose my ships willingly.

      They may be key to 1/ keeping Africa longer, 2/ Slowing the US/UK which are the keys for keeping Allies from Berlin long enough for Japan to take down Moscow.

      I won my first league game after my 6figs, 3bmbs and 2 subs took down an immense American fleet including 8 trannies SZ8, causing the harm of 140 IPCs. I am not that proud of it because it was a risk  (70-30 to win) i need not to take, but hey, it still shows what the luftwaffe and u-boots can do.

      So in principle it is really a good investment to buy approx. a plane a round especially if you can preserve some of your ships at the same time. I am esspecially eager to preserve the med bb. There is a special science about sinking it and also about keeping it alive. It is in fact worthy its own thread. The BB, can do miracles for Axis in fact. Like this: http://www.axisandallies.org/forums/index.php?topic=22516.0.

      posted in Axis & Allies Discussion & Older Games
      G
      Granada
    • RE: The Norwegian Gambit

      Gentlemen, first of all, thank you for the discussion.

      @Zhukov44:

      All that said if the core of the case for the Nor gambit is that its the only way Allies’ can acquire a substantial enough advantage to win….well this is an argument I can respect, though I don’t know if its correct.

      I am by no means saying this. What I said in the conclusion to my article, is this:

      The Norwegian gambit is a sharp opening, definitely not for anybody who likes to play it safe. But while providing you with broad strategic options and perhaps more secure ways to win than any other Russian opening IF SUCCESFUL, when it fails it makes on the contrary Russian position extremely fragile from R1; thus providing the Allied player with an entertaining and challenging game nevertheless.

      @Bunnies:

      I consider the odds of failure to be GREATER than 11% at Norway, and LESS than 10% or whatever number was given for Germany at West Russia for the G1 counter after a poor-dice R1 Norway/West Russia open.  Also, Russia’s inability to hold Caucasus on R1 cuts down on Russia’s options for R2.

      When you’re doing dice and plugging quantities into a dice simulator, most calculations are done until either no attackers or no defenders are left.  In actual dice play, though, an attacker has to re-evaluate combats after every round of offensive and defensive fire.  As I mentioned earlier, this is not so much something you need to worry about with low luck, but it IS a VERY important consideration for dice.

      The initial scenario is attacking Norway on R1 with 3 inf 1 tank 2 fighter.  Let’s say a couple rounds of combat have passed, and that you’re now attacking Norway forces of 1 inf 1 fighter with 1 tank 1 fighter. In dice, there’s at least a 2/9 probability that the attacker continuing to press the attack will result in loss of both tank and fighter, meaning BOTH fighters lost for Russia.  Loss of both fighters is really not good.  So maybe Russia withdraws at that point.  A similar scenario holds for Russia attacking with 1 fighter and Germany defending with 1 fighter, or even Russia attacking with 1 tank 2 fighters and Norway defending with 2 1 fighter, PLUS all the scenarios just mentioned in which Germany’s Norway defense force is even greater.

      To restate this in the abstract - if FOUGHT TO THE DEATH, the overall percentage of “failure” for Russia’s Norway 3 inf 1 tank 2 fighter attack (given a “success” condition of 1 Russian fighter left) is 11%, but since the attacker can RE-EVALUATE the combats after each round of attacker and defender fire, and choose to continue attacking or decide to retreat, the CHOICE of the attacker may be to retreat instead of attacking, and the dice simulator is NOT typically used to evaluate the retreat conditions for the attacker.  But CLEARLY, if there ARE retreat conditions that are NOT factored into the 11% do or die scenario, the real failure rate MUST be higher than 11%.

      As far as the 10% failure on West Russia (given 2 German fighters hit there), the “victory conditions” are slightly different.  I think in such a scenario, Germany can see taking West Russia as a bonus.  The real objective is to reduce the West Russia stack to the point that Germany can put forces at Karelia next turn.  Great success means taking West Russia, and stacking Karelia, denying Russia both West Russia and Belorusssia IPCs next turn, and giving Russia the ability to trade Archangel next turn for an additional 2 IPC.  Moderate success means weakening West Russia to the point that Russia cannot attack Belorussia on its next turn.

      Personally, I think a West Russia G1 counter is pretty dicey.  If it works, Germany broke most of Russia’s attacking power and gained a serious economic advantage.  If it fails, well - there’s a question of degrees of failure, but it’s really down to that AA gun.

      Bunny, while I admire your insight into the mechanics of the dice battles, i really do not think it changes that much in the likelihood. Given the specific situation you described fig, tnk vs. fig, inf, 1/ you really could not think about many other situations that look unpromising for russians and still realistically lead to their victory, could you? 2/ The statistical outcome of this rare situation makes most of it anyway part of russia defeats 3/ I would fire anyway retreating only in the situation 1fig on 1fig.

      So I guess it really is more then 11 %, but not much more really.

      But first of all, I really do not want to be that obsessed with numbers. If you go that deep into the numbers of UKR/WR combo or subs AE protection, you would end up with doing only WR attack R1 most likely.

      The NG is a complex strategy. It is based on the risk evaluated decision I would take even in the later stages of the game: you simply risk something to have a strategic advantage – in this case it is the UK BB. Even if you come with the rock-solid evidence the likelihood is more 75-25 then 80-20, the question for me remains: was it worthy taking the risk? My answer would still most likely remain yes, because I think that even after you fail the situation remains playable if you do not keep getting diced.

      To fail for me means either not killing the nor fig or having less then 10 units in WR (plus AA gun of cauc).

      @Zhukov44:

      It isn’t my style to go after WR unless it’s wide open.

      However I think if there are 10 or less units there, then attacking WR is a pretty darn decent move.

      Idk if killing the 13 cruiser is that important if skipping it means I have the planes that give me a 95%-100%+ shot at clearing West Russia.  If I’m looking for a big WR attack, idk if I even bother to take Egypt…I might just use the bb to hit 13 and the tranny to reinforce Ukr (or hit cau if you are keeping cau light).   Or land in gib.

      I think if you combine a WR grab with an aggressive G buy (5 inf 5 arm or perhaps 6 arm 3 inf) and aggressive Japanese tactics (2 ICs on J1, then tank rush) then Russia has serious problems.  In many cases, Germany could/should have the ability to recounter West Russia on G2 with the forces it should have in Kar/Bel (3 inf 3 arm or thereabouts, plus whatever is on Ukr).  If that happens Germany and Russia will both be really thin, and Allies’ best shot at the win is an aggressive KGF.  You can try to shore Russia up with Arch drops, but that won’t prevent Axis from getting Cauc.

      This sort of tactic is naturally very risky but if Allies successfully take Nor R1 then Axis might decide that the situation is dire enough to risk tank rush.  Then it becomes a race to capture Moscow before Allies make use of their economic advantages.

      Zhuk, it then really breakes to the question whether you feel 10 units plus AA gun of Cauc in WR is a good target for you. If you prove your attack inevitebly leads to the Axis win in the vast majority of cases, that would be a solid case for me to reconsider the whole strategy. But I am really not convinced at this point.

      Even if you send all your 6 planes, you lose 0-2 to AA gun, and you do not make the WR safe against counter. What you will create is a situation of total slugfest on the eastern front, when Germany is without any ships R1, and Allies will press it from R1 from the west. Yet you are very unlikely to break Russia just with Germany IMHO, and Allies should have the 16 units flowing to Europe from SZ5 before Japan is on Russia’s door.

      I really hope we will have a chance to test that at some point.  :mrgreen:

      posted in Axis & Allies Spring 1942 Edition
      G
      Granada
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