Best posts made by Feaborn

It’s been some years? Very infrequent anyway. I just got on to see what’s been going on. So, I added some history of my old A&A customizations. I haven’t played A&A in years (I guess). I did buy both 1940 games then, ofc, I had to make my combined version (mostly some minor PF map changes & specialized starting rules). When I see a map & I think it has inaccuracies, well, it gets changed (lol). Perhaps, I will send in my customization - it isn’t that much different from the original. Lastly, I did make a donation to support & to thank all you regulars for your work here.

@superbattleshipyamato I’m a gamer too, glad to be of service to another gamer. :)

To answer question #2 of my original post - I have also made a WW1 style Destroyer piece with the help of a 3D printer hobbyist. It is a generic DD based on a WW1 US Destroyer but altered somewhat.

Actually, Black Elk, my idea is you make a map board of all ocean spaces which are numbered & have an E-W border movement (N & S being high latitude therefore impassable). The concept is to create new Great Powers and enough neutral territories to approximate the PF values of an A&A map. My design is based on A&A Classic, however, it could be extrapolated to any of the games. The idea is to make an entirely new game board. An additional step which I have devised allows for a random placement of these Great Powers and other Territories so that each game board will be different - even the alignment of the land territories will be randomized. It is necessary, of course, to create, at least, 5 Great Powers and some neutral landmasses (neutral territories). One simply uses the playing pieces of the 5 major WW2 nations. In my home version of this, which I term ‘Allies & Enemies’ (A&E), I made up 7 sets of pieces so I could have up to a 7 player game (though, in RL, this has never occurred). My sets of pieces are mainly lead & pewter miniatures from what was available in the 1980s. I use plastic plane sets from that era for the aircraft. As to Great Powers - I & my old gaming friends from the 80s - there has been 12 Great Powers randomly created (I did all the artwork for consistency of look) - so this random Great Power creation system works (played considerably).
What someone suggested and what I must now do is to make up a you tube video of what & how I made my A&A random map board - how it works & how it changes for each game one would play.
The design pre-supposes a variable number of players (4-7 would be best, although 5 or 6 would be ‘traditional’) each playing on their own OR, alternately, somehow divided into two as equal as possible teams ‘points’ (PF) wise. I made my game designed on a map of sea spaces that are all squares sized to hold sufficient naval units - the land territories being ‘squarish’ in shape, as well. At the time, I was influenced by the off board ‘squares’ for unit placement on the old original A&A Classic map (a really bad design feature, in retrospect). Now, with A&A:WW1, which I recently obtained, I have used my design idea for original Great Powers where I use a hexagonal space map - a better way to do random alignments (as you can do 6 directions to just 4 with a square space map. Plus, in my A&A:WW1 map version, sea spaces will be more important. * Note: in either game (WW1 or WW2) my map design system uses more sea spaces as the maps of the land have absolutely no bearing to the map of the Earth (with Europe, Pacific, etc, as in the regular A&A maps). I hope I haven’t confused anyone too much.
To conclude, I need to get assistance to place something onto You Tube where you will see me, an ‘old fart’ A&A board gamer, explain & illustrate how one makes their own ‘Great Powers’.

I have designed, independently of all other sources, the following A&A playing pieces;

1. Motorized Infantry; Att 1 Def 2, Move 2, PF cost 4
2. Motorized Artillery; Att 4 Def 1, Move 2, PF cost 7
3. Paratroop; Att 1 Def 1, Move 1, PF cost 3, Transported via Bomber (1:1)
4. Corvette; Att 1 Def 1, Move 2, PF cost 6 (the missing naval unit)

To answer question #3 of my original post - one can find 3D printer filament colour spools that match very closely or identically to six of the original playing piece colours. Only two colours appear to not be readily available.