That’s similar to how I was hoping they would set it up. Thus far, I’ve only heard talk about fighters, so it’s refreshing to hear someone talk about bombers. :-D
Especially dive bombers. How can you have a game involving German tactics and not have the Stuka? I’m already painting bulls-eyes on the top of my Russian tanks… :)
Do you play three wide by two deep
or
three deep by two wide?
We usually play the 3 wide x 2 deep… but we don’t usually have a large enough table for more than that. I prefer the 3 wide because it spreads out the armies and allows more room for flanking.
Wouldn’t that be the same as the “Assault” scenario type described in the rules? In which case the defender has 80 points and the attacker has 120 pt armies (going from memory here…). The defender also gets to place the objective marker.
So if you prefer a 300 point army. Then since 80 is roughly 66% of 120. Do the same to 300 and basically the defender gets a 200 point army.
Enola Gay. 100 points. Versus Everything. 100,000/100,000/100,000
Heh, go ahead and use the Enola Gay, but I’m not helping you count your hits after you toss 100,000 dice! :-D
Well, the nice thing is that all the maps are already label Dog 1, Bravo 2, etc…
So, the first part of the notation for a hex could be something like D1 (Dog 1), B2 (Bravo 2)…
We could start with a standard then on numbering the hexes 001, 002, etc. Maybe say that the corner of the map that has it’s name Dog 1, etc… the first valid hex on the top row is always 001 (meaning no half hexes).
Since we have a tendency to flip the maps around the hex numbers won’t always be facing the same way as the other on the map, but still saying your M2 Flamethrower moved to D1-024 (Dog 1 Hex 024) should be easy enough to figure out.
Then for facing we could always assume that we write the hex number at the top of the hex so that could always be position 1 for facing. Then we could just number going clockwise at that point.
1
___
6 / 024 \2
5 \ /3
___
4
(Sorry for the crude hex… I’m at work…)
So, the M2 Flamethrower moves into this hex and is facing the bottom of this hex (4). D1-024-4 (Map Dog 1, Hex 024, Facing 4).
Anyway, that would be my guess how to do it. I’ve never played a play-by-mail game so maybe there is an actual standard for this, but this seems like it would be easy enough to me.
I voted the Haupsturmfurher, but I like to use the Inspiring Lt. quite a bit. I didn’t see him on the list. :(
As far as game tiles go, I saw someone post about using “Lost Battalion Terrain Tiles” for A&A Mini’s. The tiles look pretty nice. Although after seeing how Lotus did his tiles I think I might try to do that myself! Nice work Lotus!
I seem to have had my best luck completing my Set I by just buying missing pieces on eBay. You might spend about $6 on an individual piece but it still seems cheaper than buying a booster to get another Sherman or Panzer IV, and not the piece you want.
I haven’t had much luck with Set II because my local store has been sold out of Set II boosters. I wish I could find out who that person is so I could play a few games with 'em.
It’s really up to you as to how you keep track of it. Since the vehicle in your example already has a face up disruption marker you really don’t have to have 2 on that vehicle, unless it helps you to remember that one is from a “Headshot” and will not be removed at the beginning of the next casualty phase (the end of the current turn).
Headshot:
“…This counter isn’t removed at the beginning of the next casualty phase.”
[Headshot occurs in step D or E below]
Turn sequence:
…
D. First player’s assault phase
E. Second player’s assault phaseÂ
F. Casualty phase (both players) [this is the beginning of the next casualty phase… in the same turn]
So, you begin the next turn. If that same vehicle should receive any hits that cause disruption then you would want to put down a face-down disruption marker. Because, after both Assault phases occur the casualty phase begins and all face-up disruption markers are removed (including the sniper one from the previous turn). Now the one that is face down for that vehicle is flipped over.
I think I understand this rule correctly. Hope that helps. If not, I sure someone else will pop in with the correct ruling.
Another option, that might make it more offense oriented. There was a WWII computer game that I played over at a friend’s house a couple of times (I can’t remember the name of it for the life of me). Anyway, we played against each other over the network. Instead of flags, they were more like little blimps, but the same concept either way. When you captured the “flag” you got reinforcements, thus making it easier for you to continue your offense and also maintain control of the flags. So, instead of sitting back and just playing defense (there was about 4 flags total), you were forced to get out there and grab those flags or your opponent would be able to builld a huge force from the reinforcements and overpower you.
Oh, btw, I picked Germany as well. I don’t always play Germany, but they seem to be very versatile with all their options for units.
This is going to be very interesting! But I’m kinda glad we have to wait as well, I still haven’t even gotten all my Set II.
Just out of curiousity, since I know some of us try to build our armies from one country each time we play a game. Which country is your favorite to play so far? (I know some countries have limited units, but I added them all just in case.)
It might be that they consider them to have been a “common” element in the Russian Army. Maybe in 1941 they were around but not in full circulation to all Russian Divisions. I honestly don’t know, I’m just suggesting this as a possible reason.
@Major:
i wasnt saying that you should be able tomove pill boxes and such in the game, that wold make no sence. i was saying that they should be loose pices that you can put anywhere for each game, i just dont want it to be part of a map, something you cant change (if new maps ever vome out that is)
Ah, sorry I misunderstood. I’m totally in agreement with that.
@Major:
watch ebay, once in a while a realy good deal pops up.
Ah, so your the one that keeps out-bidding me on those Crusader II’s!! :-P
I don’t think you should get to move defensive positions like pill boxes. The whole point is to position them at choke points to make life difficult for units going through there, or the other effect is to have the enemy avoid them all together. The price you pay is that they have great defense but they can’t move. If you want a moving pill box that would be called a tank…. I think a high front armor would be good, with the rear armor only attackable by enemy units in the same hex. Flame throwers would still be able to destroy it with the 3 sixes rule too.
And speaking from experience, you would not be able to dig a foxhole of any worth in one turn.
Well, I played US vs Japanese 150 pt. game this morning with a friend. I wanted to field a total Japanese Army. I have everything but the Type I Ho-Ni. 2 of these were the Ka-Mi Amphib Tanks.
It pretty much consisted of my whole army being annilated by 2 Shermans and an Easy Eight. Neither of the Ka-Mi’s lasted to round 4. I was pretty disappointed with the Japanese army as a whole. Even the Sniper could do little more than keep a soldier unit suppressed with it’s 5 dice attack. I’m hoping Set III will beef them up a little bit.
Interesting tactic, my friend used 3 BAR’s. Since the unit attacked by the BAR can’t make an attack that turn, he managed to keep 3 of my Anti-Tank Guns basically out of the fight while he maneuvered his Shermans. So Jeeps can transport other good things besides Bazooka’s. :)
Actually, I’m not getting much help from reading the rules. It basically states that Defensive Fire can occur in the starting hex or the hex the unit is moving into. Sounds to me like they assume you would start in a hex adjacent to an enemy at the beginning of your move… so there would be no vehicle in that hex except the involved unit to begin with.
Ahhh… but I was doing something wrong. Soldiers can’t draw Defensive Fire from vehicles. I’m glad I looked that up!