Posts made by dedo

Three sizes will be uploaded:
600mm width, length 1129mm.
700mm width, length 1317mm.
863mm width, length 1625mm.

For a 600mm width, the length would be 1129mm.
For a 700mm width, the length would be 1317mm.

1.SZ 41.  Most likely killed by the sub, but at least draws that away from the J1 attack on Pearl Harbor

In Triple A your transport will not be attacked, if you let the british sub and cruiser guide it. This little fleet could move to the atlantic where they can meet with the americans or the part of the british fleet from India (carrier, transport, cruiser moving round africa). At least this works in Triple A, Hard AI.

1500mm? Hm, there is hardly a difference in comparison to the 1625mm x 863mm size. What do you think of roundabout 1200mm x 600mm? This is far more than the OOB size (830mm x 450mm), provides a lot of space for the (few…) units and would fit a normal table size (width/depth 60 cm).

Some final clicks have to be made…after roundabout 40 hours of work…
You will receive several maps:

• triple border style map with IPC-track and Mobilization zone
• triple border style map without IPC-Track and no Mobilization zone (for the purists…)
• double border style map with IPC-track and Mobilization zone
• double border style map without IPC-Track and no Mobilization zone (for the purists…)

I recommend to CHECK THE MAP before printing! All borders are new, all names new.

What will be the final size please

Make a suggestion, what size would you like to have (mm x mm)? Please bear in mind, that another size of the map should keep the proportionality of lenght and width of the actual map.

Out of sight, out of mind.  
So far, I didn’t receive any additional feedback or comments on errors concerning the map, all known errors are already fixed in version 10. Nevertheless, I will do a final check on the weekend and then release the final version.

@IWillNeverGrowUp:
Very well explained, I made the same experiences and work in the same manner.

-Gloss varnish (I tend to use Krylon acrylic gloss)
-allow to dry 24+ hours
-Decals if required

Just one amendment:
the reason for applying a glossy varnish prior decaling is, this avoids the “silvering” of decals. Sometimes the transparent part of the decals seems to shine silvery when the decal has dried.

What is the difference of using enamel vs acrylic gloss protective coating on acrylic painted pieces?

The difference is a potential loss of your painting work. In a few words to a complex issue: it is better to cover water based colors (Vallejo/Acrylic paints) with water based coatings. It is also no problem, to coat enamel colors with a water based/acrylic coating. It will be dangerous, if you paint/coat on water based colors with (alcohol based) enamels. The solvent of the enamels (alcohol, toluol, turpentine) can “dissolve” the water based color (acrylic paint), that is, the solvent of the enamel/enamel gloss protective could “creep” into the acrylic layer. This may lead to bubbles and similar effects.

On the other hand: working with very thin layers of enamel protective gloss on acrylic paints can work, but that’s a b*tch. I tried this on self made decals printed with water based inks and it worked, but it took me some time to gain promising experience.

Can you put too much of the protective spray on?

See above, you can just put on the wrong protective coating. On the other hand, if you aim to paint well, apply the coatings in thin layers: it is better to coat 3 times in thin layers than 1 time like “a prehistoric insect in a block of amber”. Very importent: let the color you are going to coat not only dry but harden.

The printable map is 167cm x 86cm, the OOB map is 107cm x 67cm. The printable map consists of the landscape style (background bitmap) of the 1942 1st-edition map (created by imperious leader) AND/BUT the border and territory configuration of the 1942 2nd-edition map. The map of 1942 1st ed. was used because the OOB 1942 2nd ed. was barely nice (awfully stretched territories especially in Europe).

So, yes, the point was to put the 1942 2nd game to a larger scale than the OOb map. Seazones and territories remained the same as OOB.

The differences between 1942 first edition and second edition are:

• different territories
• different borders
• different sea zones
• different IPC
• different set ups
• (partially) different rules
• different sculpts

So, 1942.2ed is NOT just the same game as 1942.1ed, but a completely different game! “Second Edition” in this context does not mean “Newer production line of the same product with the same content” (e.g like the uncountable versions of monopoly), it’s more or less a completely new game.

Things I’m going to do are more of a technical claim.

I’m working on another border-style, which is very time consuming. Like in the map for 1941 I prefer the 3-line border style, consisting of non bezier-points (bezier points are editable by adding vectors; by doing so straight lines can be transformed into curved ones). The borders in the map for 1942 are consisting of bezier-points. Eventually any line, any curve has to be transformed. For this work, the correctness of the border topology is of most importance (…again, thank you for your feedback!). The 3-line border style is demanding, you have to edit 2 lines in any point of the line to fit the origin line, it’s not possible to just copy and paste a line. This takes a lot of time.

Another step is to introduce “written” territory names. Right now the names of the territories are “curves”. At fourth, new layers will be introduced (e.g. house rule layers for another IPC assignment to the territories, alternative or additional roundels). Most things will make no significant change in comparisson to the actual map. Concerning the time line: given the experience I gained up to now, this all will need several hours a day for 2 up to 3 weeks.

Map corrected:
-Borders around Poland adjusted

New version

PLEASE LOOK ON p2 AND p3 OF THE THREAD FOR THE FINAL VERSIONS!!!
5 VERSIONS OF DIFFERENT STYLE ARE DELIVERED!!!

Actually it’s the latest version whereas I’m in preparation of a newer one. And: you’re right! I just cross checked the border topology, thank you for the feedback! I don’t know how often I checked especially the border configuration, but there is nothing better than a second pair of eyes. I’m going to change it today!

A short google search showed me, that the import-layer-feature is obviously not included in Photoshop. That’s a pitty, because imported layers ease the work with graphics extraordinarily. Nevertheless, Photoshop has got the opportunity to work with layers, what I highly recommend to you. Layers work like transparencies on an overhead projector. On any transparency you can add some details, when all slides are put on top of each other, the picture is completed (e.g. the map with all of its details). Another advantage of this technique is, that you do not apply “permanent tattoes” (e.g. “painting” over the IPC tracker - this will last forever and is not reversible later on).

I’m hoping to remove the IPC tracker.

If it gets problematic, tell me. It’s just a few clicks to make the IPC tracker unvisible or even to delete it.
If photoshop works with layers, you can make the corresponding layer unvisible.

Regarding the swastikas, I can’t help you.
(§ 86a StGB (German Criminal Code), Use of Symbols of Unconstitutional Organizations:
Whoever domestically distributes or publicly uses (…) symbols of unconstitutional organizations,
or whoever produces, stocks, imports or exports objects which depict or contain such symbols for distribution or use domestically or abroad,
shall be punished with imprisonment for not more than three years or a fine.)

I made all the apllications with Corel Draw X6 (drawings), Corel Paint Shop Pro X4 or Corel Photo Paint X6 (bitmap/Jpeg changes). These programs are quite complex, but I started liek you, I didn’t know anything about Corel. I used the AAA map project to improve my skills.

Nevertheless, it would take some time to get used to the software. I recommend to concentrate on Corel Draw and to commence with developing new drawings (like borders and so on). If you want to modify the map in Corel Draw, follow the instructions once given in the thread (also see below):

open Corel Draw,

• define page size (map size in mm),
• import the map,
• zoom in or out by scrolling mouse button
• unable all layers (right hand side of the desktop, click on the eye symbols of the layers not needed) but the layer for borders you want to change (e.g. layer “british borders”),
• mark all borders at once,
• assign the favorite color property for all borders at once, save and export to PDF - ready (10 minutes work).

Please understand, that I can’t explain the software in detail, it is far too complex to handle it in a thread.

I just totaled Japan IPC’s and it is 31.  The tracker says 30.

You are right, there was an error on the map (Okinawa hasn’t got an IPC).

PLEASE LOOK ON p2 AND p3 OF THE THREAD FOR THE FINAL VERSIONS!!!
5 VERSIONS OF DIFFERENT STYLE ARE DELIVERED!!!

IPC chart corrected.

New Version:
http://www.mediafire.com/view/0ya2c08a5c4xjpr/1941-v10.pdf

size: 1625mm x 863mm (a second map in a smaller size will be finalized, when all errors are fixed)

Some corrections:

• some neutral borders corrected
• some IPC values corrected

New version:
http://www.mediafire.com/view/b401qs6h2797sqg/1941-v09.pdf