Topics created by billinjackson

I picked it up a year or two ago…Its alot of fun. I need to play it more.

Its a cross between of Shogun and Fortress America. The are clarity issues with the rules.
I did buy extra colored dice. As the territory you are defending one determines what die you roll on.

mountain terrain is gray use gray d12
forest terrain is green use green d10
all other is d8 defense and attacking unless you use a card that changes your attack or defend die.

I created a draw deck place mat based on someone else’s that helped game play with rules when you had papal disfavor drawing less cards.

http://www.conquestgaming.com/warlords/

FAQ and additional scenarios.

Pulled some stuff off of game geek that helped clear up things.

this helped alot.

Warlords of Europe
S R McDougall, 26th May 2010 V1.1
Setup

• Each player takes 1 castle, 2 warlords, 2 knights, 2 archers,
2 swordsmen, 12 spearmen

• Each player rolls 1d8 and chooses Initiative card
(highest roller first)

• In Initiative Order: choose a Kingdom

• In Initiative Order: place castle in any region of Kingdom and 1
warlord in any other fief in Kingdom

• In Initiative Order: distribute remaining units between castle and warlord areas

Sequence of Play

Each player completes (i) – (iv) in Initiative Order:
P(i) Campaign Manoeuvres (Attacks)
P(ii) Resolve Battles
P(iii) Manoeuvre Reserves (Strategic Move)
P(iv) Draw Conquest Card if any fiefs conquered

Then complete Group Phases one at a time in Initiative Order
G(i) Draw Pope Card and check for Victory
G(ii) Play Taxation cards and receive Income
G(iii) Buy units, castles, and/or mercenaries
G(iv) Place units, castles and/or mercenaries in friendly fiefs
G(v) Roll 1d8 (upgradable to d10 or d12) and determine
new Initiative Order
G(vi) Buy 1 Merchant card for 4 gold if desired in new Initiative Order

Victory:

• If player owns more than half the completed castles on the board
(all castles in 2P games) and every other player has had at least 1
subsequent turn

Player Actions

P(i) Campaign Manoeuvres (Attacks)
• Move units onto borders of non-friendly neighbouring fiefs
– generally units move 1 area only
– knights and warlords can move 2 areas but must stop when
entering non-friendly area
• warlord can pick up and take other units along with him
• Note that a friendly fief remains friendly only if at least 1 friendly unit is
present at the end of the player turn (so you can safely vacate a fief temporarily)

P(ii) Resolve Battles (NB 15 unit maximum in mountains at end of turn)
• Resolve one battle at a time: consult hit table on summary card
• An empty fief is defended by peasants (= no. of cities present)

• Archers roll first and casualties removed
– archers attacking a castle fief only hit on 6 or higher
– archers defending a castle fief hit on 4 or higher
• Other soldiers then roll and casualties removed
• Attacker generally rolls 1d8 per unit
• Defenders generally rolls 1d8 in red plains
1d8 in orange farmlands
1d10 in green forests/unfinished castles
1d12 in grey mountains/finished castles
• Defender chooses casualties first
• Repeat battle rounds as necessary or until attacker retreats
– retreats are to a single adjacent departure area
• Mutual annihilation: fief reverts to peasant control
– unless castle present: defender places a free spearman

• Warlord must be last casualty in a peasant battle
– return to a friendly castle not to stock

• Warlord chosen as a casualty in a player battle
– captured by enemy and placed in any enemy castle
– only returned to owner via negotiation/card play/rescue

• If a castle fief captured
– place construction token if castle was finished (damage)
– draw a bonus Conquest card
– collect 15 gold from treasury if loser still owns a castle
• 30 gold plus all opponents cards and gold if not
– buy and/or hire and deploy soldier units immediately into
any friendly castles if desired

P(iii) Manoeuvre Reserves (Strategic Move)
• Move any/all units that did not attack during P(i)
– even into newly-conquered fief

• 15 soldiers maximum in any mountain fief at turn end
– no limit if fief is a castle fief

P(iv) Draw 1 Conquest Card if any fiefs conquered this turn

Group Phases

G(i) Draw Pope Card and check for Victory
• Resolve any “Immediately” cards drawn
• Note that “Papal Disfavour” cards played against a player can be
ignored but at a cost (place card face-up in front of disfavoured player):
– 1st disfavour: cannot draw a Pope card
– 2nd disfavour: cannot draw a Pope/Merchant card
– 3rd disfavour: cannot draw any type of card

G(ii) Play Taxation cards and receive Income
• Must control at least 1 castle to receive income. No castle: no income
– 1 gold in red plains
– 3 gold in orange farmlands
– 2 gold in green forests
– 1 gold in grey mountains
– 12 gold for a finished castle if entire host Kingdom controlled
– 6 gold for any castle if player controls more fiefs in host
Kingdom than any other single player
• no additional bonus for having more than 1 castle in any
  single Kingdom

G(iii) Buy units, castles, and/or mercenaries
• You may only build 1 castle per Kingdom
– costs 6 gold to start (add construction token)
– costs 6 gold to finish in a later turn (remove construction token)
• Cannot buy new warlords if any of your existing warlords is a prisoner
• Hire mercenaries (no mercenary warlords allowed)
– cost = unit price + 1 gold
– all mercenaries must be paid for every turn or are lost
• Spearmen are not limited by the counter mix (add chips if necessary)
• Other units are limited by the counter mix
– mercenaries are the way to gain additional archers, knights,
and swordsmen (use chips to signify these)

G(iv) Place units, castles and/or mercenaries in friendly fiefs
• Build/finish castles
• Only 1 soldier (but unlimited mercenaries) can be placed in a single fief
– knights and warlords can only be placed in castle fiefs
• A castle fief can have an unlimited number of units placed there
– unless it was newly built this turn: in which case 1 unit only
• 4 extra spearmen placed in any fief(s) in a wholly owned Kingdom

G(v) Roll 1d8 (upgradable to d10 or d12) and determine
new Initiative Order
• Upgrade to 1d10 for 2 gold or any 1 card
• Upgrade to 1d12 for 4 gold, any 2 cards, or 2 gold plus 1 card

G(vi) Buy 1 Merchant card for 4 gold if desired in new Initiative Order

Player Elimination

• If no more castles owned by a player
– may choose to resign (pieces remain on board)
– may play on (no income but cards can still be drawn)
– however, conquering player can force your units to become his
vassals (i.e. come over to his side)
• must pay gold to treasury to buy all non-mercenary
vassals

shoot me a pm with your email. Ill send you stuff I worked on and save you the hassle.

@billinjackson:

@taamvan:

sweet.  the new version seemed really short of pieces to me, we didn’t play it but I have it.   It always seemed like you needed jillions of ashigaru…

You are correct. I used to break out shogun to add their pieces - always a pain

Sorry, from what I understand, the troop count is limited in order to increase attacks.  Basically, the only way to increase your number of troops is to kill off an opponent…you then get his troops to use.

@billinjackson:

Hey Bill,

How did it go with your Commandoes? Specifically the fact that they can “glide” behind enemy lines and sabatoge without engaging in combat? I havn’t tested it out yet, personally.
Does that make them too powerful? Do you roll for them to damage factories? 1D6?

It went well. they played a role by hitting a factory in europe and one actually on mainline Japan. The japanese player actually missed him slowly coming up from India by way of a sea route. Once they hit a location, they tend to die as the player has to address them but, the distraction is worth it.

Changes i will be making will be that once they make a strike on a facility it will be only 1 point of damage regardless of how successful the role was.

Bill

Hmm, interesting interesting.
I could see that being a problem. Did they roll a six sided dice for damage? Did they roll high both times?
I’ve set mine up to roll a D6 dice and rolling a 6 eliminates them without damage and a 1 let’s them make a move after sabotage.
Thanks for sharing your results Bill. It’s helps in tweaking my setup.

Summon Flashman in 3… 2… 1…

@Cow:

I believe if japan takes the last VC, once france ends / germany is about to begin… that counts as a full round… you don’t have to go again so to speak.

It has to be a full round from the time the last VC is taken. So in this example, it would have to come back around to Japan in order for the Axis to achieve victory.

@Vance:

or take carolines.

Right, that’s the best place to stage the USN . . . but there’s already a naval base there silly.  :wink:

As Japan I like to stage the IJN off of phil, put a blocker to prevent Korea/Japan invasion, and stack the carolines with as many ftr/tac as I need or can spare. Usually US doesn’t have more then 1-2 transports, so it should be safe from an amphib assault with 3-4+ air there.  Keep the mainland air on kwansi/FIC to land on carriers and you’re set up for a very heavy counter to any US moves in that direction.

I don’t like to trade ships with US when I can help it and if I have to fight a naval battle I’d rather be set up to hit him as hard as I can with the strength of my powerful airforce. Most of the times the threat is enough and the USN stays away.

Several people have said they will make charts and whatnot when the official final set is released.

Thank you Tex for providing what you have made.

Double down with 16-20 submarines CRD’ing your opponents.  You’ll see a very concerned look on your opponent’s face. (If you are axis)

@otahere34 said in Thoughts on a Japanese strategy?:

I have a house rule that aircraft on carriers can launch after the carrier makes its movement, cause in real life, if there were carriers in Japan with planes, the planes didn’t take off and attack midway from there, they took off once the carriers got to midway.

@JayDavis said in Thoughts on a Japanese strategy?:

I have a house rule, when I play the US, I get the Nimitz in 1941.

@Peck said in Thoughts on a Japanese strategy?:

I have a house rule too. German infantry can cross the English channel without a transport because in real life people can swim across too.

This house ruling is fun!

I have a house rule too.

Obviously it’s only the French, aka Frogs, who can swim over the English Channel. It’s called frog suit. Obviously.

But that is not my house rule.

My house rule partly reflects the installment of the Vichy government, partly builds on French swimming technology being adapted by the Germans, partly includes primitive rocket science and partly simply because Germans are sauerkraut.

With my house rule the Germans can bounce over the English Channel. In fact, they can bounce over most of the annoying obstacles, like Gibraltar, Sahara, Himalayas and the Atlantic. They can even bounce behind enemy lines, if need be.

More or less becoming similar to flying Tribbles.

That is my house rule.

I think the game would be more balanced that way and more fun.

I found the truce I made collecting dust in one of my drawers, while cleaning my room yesterday. I thought I’d share this for fun. My friend was the Axis and I was the Allies. Here is our “document” word for word lol: “I Michael Ratzburg hereby formally surrender the military of Japan unconditionally to James Robert Mullen II, because I was outnumbered, and would eventually lose due to unrivaled strategic maneuvers by my allied opponent. This document was written and signed by I, Michael Ratzburg, by my own free will and was by no means forced upon me by said allied player.
    P.S. Sleep deprivation, in no way, influenced this decision.”
Ah, I’m so merciless sometimes lol  :evil:

In your mind, what would one look like?

@BadSpeller:

@ThomasJefferson:

does the sun rise in the morning?

Poor answer, in some locations on this planet, that answer is no.
The sun is up for months, or the sun does not rise for months.

:-D :lol:

It is a pretty cool game but like others have said it takes a while to set up. The holes in the bases can be a little snug or a little big for the troop pegs so the snug pegs can take a little longer to get into the bases.

I’m playing A&A mini’s because it is very easy to play also for children. You can buy the different tanks on the net or eBay.
I’m also repainting the tanks and making diorama’s to make it more realistic. I even add spotters with off board artillery and reinforced positions for infantry en artillery combined with self made barbed wire f.e.

If you look on the net you can find a lot off information and photo’s.

@Gargantua:

if A RACK attacked a TURKEY from behind, would GREASE help? only if your RUSSIAN for food, and there’s no sense in STALIN. :P

Great play on words :P.

Very nice!

@lnmajor:

how about this?
place a roundel under a sub on the board to signify its submerged. it can only move 1 space per turn submerged. you must use ASW search roll of 1-2 to detect sub from destroyer or cruiser. surfaced sub can move 2 spaces per turn. ASW roll is 1-4 when sub is surfaced. now, on second turn, if sub remains submerged put second roundel under sub. beggining of 3rd turn submerged sub must surface for 1 turn no matter where it is. even if it has to surface strait into hostile ships and be attacked.

not a bad idea. The one benefit to having them off the board is the surprise factor.

Great ideas though…

@MarkVIIIMarc:

The “Global” rules are in the back of the Europe rule book if that was the question.

My scanner may still work.  If I scan the last few pages and upload them to flickr think I would get sued?

Thanks for the info. No, please don’t do anything that would get you sued! I can wait… Thanks all for the info though, I’m like a kid in a candy shop waiting for these to arrive.