So if we play 1941, which side should I (as the more experienced player) play if we want a balanced game? Or does it matter?
You should play the allies, they need to coordinate their efforts more efficiently in order to have a better chance of winning. Your greater experience with the game will enable you to do this much better than the player with less experience.
The Second season is the best season!
My usual horse came up lame this year, so I am not sure who I am rooting for.
I know more who I am rooting AGAINST…
new version of these optional rules
My only wish for the game would’ve been that he could’ve incorporated the national advantages from the original revised and put them in anniversary. Other than that it’s the best one ever.
We’ve done this as part of our Chicago House Rules:
https://www.axisandallies.org/forums/index.php?topic=41066.0
There are Tech rules for the Chicago Rules as well as the ‘base’ Chicago Rules.
Both are also in the House rules section
New version of these optional rules
One of the items in our house rules for AA50 (The Chicago Rules) is:
3) Restricted Dardenelles straight: Bulgaria is the only territory accessible via transport(s) in sz16
So the Sea zone is still open to ships, but only land accessible to Bulgaria. Doesn’t remove the sea zone from play, but eliminates the Med drops into Caucasus and/or Ukraine
I’ve heard proposals to split India into two land zones, and that seems fine to me, but I think the more important fix is to split the Indian Ocean so that it is two or even three sea zones wide, depending on latitude. This would also help the British stage a credible “west Indian Ocean” task force either off the coast of West India or off the coast of East Africa…using the OOB map, Japan can stage a navy off the conveniently close west coast of Indochina and still threaten the entire supposedly distant coast of east Africa, from Egypt to Madagascar.
Thoughts?
I like the idea
Here’s a quick proposal via my rudimentary JPG
India gets split into India and Banglaesh
Kwangtung becomes worthless (except as a component of the Japans NO)
That 1 IPC is now in Bangladesh
Split SZ35 into 2.
Not sure how the units originally put into India should be split for initial placement… leave to the allies to decide?
You know, maybe you’re right. My countering Japan strategy is mostly a throwback to the old version. But now it may be a better choice to have Russia go all out against Germany, since I think I have a good chance of pulling it off.
There have been many times that I could have secured Poland if I had enough tanks…
Put some allied (UK/USA) fighters with that stack of forward Russian troops and you should be able to safely get to/hold Eastern Poland. That territory is a key piece in the theatre of war. Whoever controls that (Germany/allies) can effectively dead zone 6 territories that it borders. Also, those allied fighters are not out of play based in EPL. In conjunction with the a/c strategy that Argothair posted for an allied navy, the ftrs can even hit france.
In the absence of a rule, then there is no rule.
Don’t interpret / impose rules from another rules set to be in a different A&A game.
You most certainly can do so for your own house rules, if you’d like.
The only canal/straight rules in AA50 are:
Panama, Suez, and optional closing of the black sea (Dardenelles)
Yeah, I am not a fan of an IC on India. It basically becomes a free complex for Japan, since 3 units a turn isn’t enough to stop them. I’d rather buy 3 dice.
Agreed… just throwing out ideas.
If you focus so much of Russian offense against Germany, are you basically trying to trade Moscow for Berlin? The main reason I build planes is the eventual need to attack the Japanese (Since I find defensive stacks almost never work.).
This is why it’s called KGF, with the F either being First or Fast, either way, it’s a race to who loses their capital first, and at what cost.
Lot harder to stop a 3 on 1 (or 1.5 if you count little brother)
Than a 2 on 1 (Germany throws herself at Russia, Japan from the rear)
KGF is the best way for the allies to have any chance of winning without any bid.
A good axis player will recognize this and start out stacking German defense right out of the gate:
10 inf rd1. Japan flies 2-4 ftrs into Africa, aiding the building of Fortress Europe.
So, in OOB rules with Tech and National Objectives, no bid, the best hope for the Allies is technology (that and good dice for you and bad dice for the axis). IMHO, the axis should never lose in this scenario, IF they were playing to win (vs trying new things)
If that doesn’t float your boat, try throwing too many units/targets at Germany and Italy early for them to handle. Personally I like a few Russia tanks over ftrs. They take and hold land, especially with some UK or USA air power to protect any Russian stacks from German counter attacks. At least this method can push the deadzone territories to East Poland/Ukraine/Karelia to keep Germany too close for an Italian can opener to enable a German tank blitz to hit Moscow.
Godzilla gets too big too quickly, and there’s not a whole hell of allot that the allies can do to slow that down. You might try and get all hopeful that an India complex is possible on UK1. Russia needs to move many units into Persia R1 to support that IC and then Japan needs to not be in any position to hit India J2 (or Australia for the matter) because US ftrs can go to aussie and then India USA 2, to help hold the Indian complex against a J3 attack
If Japan plays it right, she won’t allow the IC to be a realistic option for the allies.
We diminished the NO’s impact by making them only worth $4 each.
For the UK NO, our thought was Japan gets away with a 4 of 6 territories, why can’t the UK NO be like that as well:
“Gain 4 IPCs if Allied powers control at least four of the following territories: Eastern Canada, Western Canada, Gibraltar, Egypt, Australia, and Union of South Africa.”
I feel like it’s easier to be the Allies in AA50 1942 than Revised or 1942 First Edition.
Well the first edition had unlimited complexes, so an IC in Persia or USA china complex made it quite difficult for the axis.
Been quite a while since I played a straight up revised game, but it was, like most A&A out of the box rules, KGF. usually in a 3 on 1, the numbers have an advantage
  Does the top tip of England supposed to be inside or sea zone next to Norway? The guys in the group are whining about it totally helping the allies. Or is it a map errata? Thanks in advance!
The allies need all the help they can get in AA50!
As I understand it, the answer is no but would love the move official people to weigh in.
I suspect that the rule as I understand it is a bit cleaner:
- If a germany falls falls (say to UK) then all territory belonging to Germany stays German.
- Suppose, all while Berlin is UK hands, US takes France ––> US gets France. If next, Japan takes France, then Japan gets to claim France. If next, Berlin is liberated, then France immediately goes back to Germany.
And, for factories, I think the rule is:
- A country can only use an IC in a territory that they controlled at the beginning of their turn.
Some please correct me if I’m not getting the rule right.
All above is correct.
What about when german units are available in a german country and Japanese units move in. Does Japan get to claim it or is it only when no German units are there?
In order for Japan to conquer (versus liberate) a German controlled territory after Berlin has fallen, the territory has to be taken by an allied power. Just moving Japanese units into a Germany territory does nothing to the ownership of the territory, whether Berlin was lost or not.
axis_roll
I take it, you are willing to take a little more risk in round 1 than I am comfortable with.
I just imagine on of those games where US doesn’t hit any fighters in Hawaii, and where the UK sub attacks your Carrier and Cruiser off Burma and hits on the first roll and you don’t hit back…… My nerves can’t handle that :-D
True, it is a bit risky, but worth it, IMHO. Encouraging the allies to spend more IPCs on Japan instead of triple teaming Germany helps the Axis. Japan can play defense/ball up fairly easily. They will still have their planes, and can easily add 1 or even 2 carriers to land those planes if they were really needed. Japan is a long way for USA to go (and an expensive one) with little return on that investment, especially early. Don’t forget Japan also goes before USA, so she can react to the USA pressure as needed.
@USS:
I would like to add that I haven’t played without National Objectives so maybe my advice means nothing. The US benefits from NOs a lot, so maybe that will help the Allies?
Actually, the allies lose their National Objectives quickly, whilst the Axis attain (and keep) theirs. This makes playing with National Objectives more advantages to the axis.
Overall, no NOs means IPC income is less for all involved. Units are more valuable, especially reusable ones (like planes and transports). Once the allies make this initial investment(s) in these type of units and does not lose them, the can have a fighting chance in the game.
Take 3 ftr on the BB in pearl, 2 ftrs on the US west coast.
You will likely lose 1 ftr in pearl, if not, you do risk getting a carrier stuck in Hawaii.
However, you are only risking a carrier to be able to take out the US BB AND tpt, DD off the west coast. It’s a good risk to take, IMHO.
I don’t like leaving the UK fleet alive off India since it can take back the East Indies or go back to Africa. You can take the cruiser with the carrier to help protect it against the sub and perhaps take Burma at the same time using the cruisers offshore.
If you put a transport in Borneo and/or East Indies, the UK sub will most likely take a guaranteed transport. Even if you allowed the UK sub on the Jap carrier, the most you’ll lose is the carrier, and you have three of them to start.
That’s a good idea axis_roll. i wonder how to trim the edges ? Maybe some camo duct tape ? Just to keep the raw edge covered a little. Suppose could run 5/4 board through the table saw and make a frame. Throw some gussets on the corners and dress them up with some sort of A&A stickers. : )
There’s no limit to how fancy you want to go! My initial thought was quick and dirty and the most frugal. My friend does the same with his board (Plexiglas) when I play at his place. I have my printed (larger) board under glass, built into a table.
The edges on his table do not pose a problem/issue, so you can try it first (without any ‘upgrades’) and fix it later if you find an issue.
I know I have seen many a beautiful A&A board created (in person and online)
Pleased to say that the game arrived in good condition. Can see why there may be warpage. The boards are noticeably thinner than 30 years ago. Also didn’t realize it is a 3 piece board.
Might go with a 3/4" interior AC ply as a backer (apply with contact cement maybe ?). Cost as much as the game but I just don’t see the boards holding up.
might I make a suggestion regarding your board?
I would get a 1/4" plexiglass the size of the assembled map to put on top when you play. This will keep the board in place (3 pieces can move sometimes) and protect it from wear of moving pieces about or the accidental spillage…
good gaming!
