Posts made by Albert Ross

Just got my six Sims class from Shapeways yesterday - first thing I have ever ordered from them and I am impressed!  Much better that the bendy A&A minis with crisp clear detail that takes acryilic paint without the need to prime.  Very nice indeed and I’ll be ordering some cruisers rather than cough up $40+ on ebay for them

Please add me to the list!

Albert Ross
Staunton, Virginia
D-Day, Battle of the Bulge, A&A 1940, naval miniatures, Wings of War WWI

The torpedo tubes are separated and relocated, while the aft funnel (minus the searchlight platforms) is moved forward.

A quick paint job and the flotilla is under way!

Here’s what I did:
First the #3 turret and the small island superstructure along with the torpedo tubes needs to be removed and the after turrets trimmed to represent open gun mountings

The searchlight platform on the after funnel also needs to be trimmed off - it’s easier to do this before removing the superstructure  :-(

First attempt

Thanks for that; looking at the drawings, that turret needs to be removed altogether and the two after turrets cut down to represent open mounts.  Some superstructure midships will also have to be removed and the torpedo tubes relocated back-to-back on the main deck.  The forward smokestack on the Farragut class is noticeably slimmer in profile so there is also some work to be done there; nothing too difficult though, and an interesting project!

Right about the carriers, but the Soviets did make extensive use of the Red Banner Northern Fleet cruisers and battleships in the defense of Leningrad; although these ships were essentially  trapped in harbor at Kronstadt due to German mine laying operations, the guns provided a massive edge to the defending artillery - 12 inch Naval shells make an awful mess of panzer III’s  8-)

http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Gangut-class_battleship#World_War_II

http://forum.worldofwarships.com/index.php?/topic/2190-the-russian-kirov-class-cruiser/

In 1944  the British battleship HMS Royal Sovereign and light cruiser USS Milwaukee were temporarily loaned to the USSR and served with the Northern Fleet

@generalsteel77:

Hi everyone. I have been playing 1941 a couple of times. The problem is the playing time.
The rulebook says 90 to 120 minutes. Well the first time we played it took over 6 hours to get finished.
The next timed we played, it took nearly 6 hours. What are we doing wrong? Some playing advice would be great.
Thanks in advice.

Staale

What were you drinking?  Seriously, the same thing happened when my wife gave me Axis & Allies D-Day for Christmas two years ago……we sat down to play after a couple of ‘egg nogs’ in the morning and a couple of glasses of wine with lunch - maybe not such a good idea!  Of course D-Day is card driven and the cards played through in the correct order, not shuffled as we did! :roll:

I hope this is the right board for this question!  I’m looking to assemble the opposing fleets for Midway using War at Sea miniatures.  The US carriers are available, as are the cruisers but I’ve hit a problem with the destroyers as aside from the Porter class Phelps and Balch, most of them are just not made.

Looking through images of minis and the real thing, I am pretty sure the three Benham/Gridley class (Benham, Ellet and Maury) can be converted from the  ORP BLYSKAWICA miniature.

Shapeways make a set of six Sims class destroyers, so all that leaves the three Farragut class (Monaghan, Worden, Aylwin) so my question is does anyone know if the existing Fletcher class can be converted to a convincing standard?

Roger that - I’ll hop on over there now.  Thanks!

I hope this is the right board for this question!  I’m looking to assemble the opposing fleets for Midway using War at Sea miniatures.  The US carriers are available, as are the cruisers but I’ve hit a problem with the destroyers as aside from the Porter class Phelps and Balch, most of them are just not made.

Looking through images of minis and the real thing, I am pretty sure the three Benham/Gridley class (Benham, Ellet and Maury) can be converted from the  ORP BLYSKAWICA miniature.

Shapeways make a set of six Sims class destroyers, so all that leaves the three Farragut class (Monaghan, Worden, Aylwin) so my question is does anyone know if the existing Fletcher class can be converted to a convincing standard?

I always wash my pieces first to get rid of any mold release agent or grease left by the manufacturing process (or simply handling!), then I prime them dark brown - some folks use black but that is really hard to paint most colors over.  After priming I go over them with a very light dry brush of white or gray i.e. a brush that has had most of the paint wiped off; just a light touch of this this leaves a little paint on the raised areas and makes the details you have covered in primer pop back out.  Deeper details remain in the dark brown shadow and likewise any parts you miss when painting the uniform will just look like shadow or mud.  Once the whole thing is dry, wash with 1 part ink to 10 parts water or clear liquid floor polish.  Use brown ink for khaki uniforms and black in for gray and green ones this will tone down bright colors and outline straps, folds etc giving a professional look.  If your figures look too dark, repeat the dry brush step again using a pale cream color.

I use 1/285 scale decals for markings - you can get sheets of the right size ones from I-94 hobbies very cheaply.

@John:

In order for me to be a better painter, I have to ask these questions, because of my inexperience.

No worries - we all started somewhere at the same point!  One little tip I’ve learned from painting miniature soldier figures is if there is a light color to go on (like a yellow cuff or red lapel) over a dark base color such as blue, black or dark green, is to paint that area white first, then when it’s dry, paint the red or yellow color over the white.  Makes it really stand out.  That is how I would tackle a yellow nosed 109

Personally I always do cockpit frames etc last YMMV

Wash the pieces in hot soapy water and rinse before you prime them.  This will remove any mold release agent left from the casting process

LOL  My lovely wife bought this for me one Christmas a couple of years ago.  After a morning drink and some wine with lunch we sat down to play: she said she was sure you had to shuffle the cards at the end of each turn……needless to say the game took about six hours with some pretty bizarre results!  :lol:

Love the game though, and painted all the pieces as well as customizing quite a few.

@Axistiger13:

@Lozmoid:

Hello pitch55, welcome.

The ‘D’ in D-Day just stands for ‘Day’. So it is literally translated as Day-Day, or the ‘day of days’.

The D in D-day stands for decision or decisive. Not just day

The terms D-Day and H-Hour are used for the day and hour on which a combat attack or operation is to be initiated. They designate the day and hour of the operation when the day and hour have not yet been determined, or where secrecy is essential. For a given operation, the same D-Day and H-Hour apply for all units participating in it. When used in combination with numbers, and plus or minus signs, these terms indicate the point of time preceding or following a specific action. Thus, H−3 means 3 hours before H-Hour, and D+3 means 3 days after D-Day. (By extension, H+75 minutes is used for H-Hour plus 1 hour and 15 minutes.) Planning papers for large-scale operations are made up in detail long before specific dates are set. Thus, orders are issued for the various steps to be carried out on the D-Day or H-Hour minus or plus a certain number of days, hours, or minutes. At the appropriate time, a subsequent order is issued that states the actual day and times.