Obviously we have people here talking from different perspectives. In the league and tournaments here, VC’s are a win condition eumaies. And yes some people take forever to go off and analyze their moves with dice calculators and all that.
Personally I agree with Jenn VC,s should have to be held for a full game turn to decide a win. If you are actually winning that should not be a problem.
1911 for me please. I liked the one I carried in the '80s so that newness thing is irrelevant. Besides its a .45 and meant to stop a running man.
Can’t remember my Nambu types but if that is the one with exposed sear in .8mm I’ll pass. I have had one of those before and they are kinda shoddy.
Most ASW of the time was the good old Mark I Mod zero eyeball. WWII subs were surface ships that could submerge. They spent the majority of their time on the surface. The electric engines used when submerged had a very limited speed and run time before the sub had to surface to recharge the batteries. Ariel observation was what lead the Germans to develop the snorkel a device for running the diesels while underwater.
Submarines also could and did engage aircraft. The preferred method however was to dive. Not because the deck guns mounted on the subs could not adequately engage the aircraft but that once spotted other aircraft and if close surface vessels would be called in. By diving the sub could flee the area.
This page has the loses by cause for u-boats. Note that almost HALF or to aircraft.
Russia will have a very hard time stacking the front with two of its IC territories being hammered by naval bombardment every turn.
Why the discrepancy in what should be a very polished product? Getting people to play with a rule introduced outside the rulebook is not going to be easy.
Welcome to the wonderful world of Axis and Allies. :roll:
Avoiding China is one of the dumbest strategic thoughts I have ever heard for several reasons.
Their units are free. All the other Allies have to purchase units and get them into the Pacific. Other than Russia, this means either an IC or transports which = more purchases.
They are nothing but a paper tiger to start out with and I see no reason to allow them to grow stronger. After the destruction of the Chinese fighter on round 1 they have no real ability to attack. This also means it is worth sacrificing Japanese fighters to kill the Chinese fighter because once it is gone China has almost no means of attacking you.
The Chinese territories are very hard for the allies to reach. This means once you have them they are yours.
Might not have been that bad a decision as some of the Italian bombers were frankly pretty ugly looking.
In the few games I messed around with the new battlemap module I would say my findings back that up IL. I did not take Gibraltar on I1 as I wanted my navy in the central med to protect my new transport and to set up for African land battles. I think it is best to wait until latter for the Italians to attack the Russians to assist Germany. Because of the Russian NO I think the Allies will concentrate on Africa more as opposed to the old Karelia stack. if it looks like Africa is a lost cause a couple of bombers to help Germany harass England or Russia with can be money well spent.
I also think that Italy will be the new Japan in the game in that it will be the hardest to get the most optimal play out of.
Keep in mind unlike Revised the Allies do not have to enter the med to liberated Gibraltar.
Hey a big Thank You back to FieldMarshalGames for getting the word out about AA50 at some other sites. Now I know he has a product he wants to sel,l but at least he is spreading the word, unlike some people. hands IL the WOTC bashing hammer :-D
Purchase 2 carriers and 1 fighter. Move the destroyer up from seazone 20. This should give you 1 transport, 1 destroyer 2 fully loaded carriers (east and west coast fighters, Hawaii fighter, and Purchase), and 1 battleship.
Unless Japan specifically set up an attack for seazone 55 on round 2 you should be safe. Even if they did and do attack, they should sustain heavy damage and the loss of most if not all of their ships.
The camo looks pretty close to the Italian camo that the SS used late in the war.
I used to feel the way you do, but as I have run more SBR campaigns my feelings have changed. SBRs are just fine as they are. While statistically they should be about a break even proposition I find they are not. For example on paper, an Axis SBR campaign using 3 bombers per turn should do 15 IPCs damage per turn to Russia. While the Axis powers each loose a bomber every other turn, resulting in an equalization. I find that the Axis powers can afford the IPCs spent to procure the bombers. However; a Russia with little or no income is all but dead and praying the dice can hit the bombers or the Allies can get units to Moscow in a hurry.
People should keep this point in mind. It is not how much you spend versus how much damage you do, within reason. It is where the damage to your opponent is done. And I feel that applies to much more than just strategic bombing.
Yes the US would at the end of his turn collect income. Even if the US player had liberated his capitol he would have collected income. The only time a player does not collect income is when his capitol is held by an opposing player.
Well I had to vote NASCAR as I only watch college football and not professional.
That’s probably another Southern thing as well.
That really blows about the dice.
Well if nothing else I do have several sets of dice already. I might even have to order some of FieldMarshalGame’s snazzy AA dice.
What messing around I have done with the battlemap module leads me to the completely opposite opinion. Now granted we know the set up is incorrect but I think the map is presumed to be accurate.
China and all those new Russian territories are an absolute boon to Japan. While none of them are worth much individually IPC wise there are many of them. They are also quite removed from the Allies. This equates to a bunch of money for Japan that is safe. Yes the national objectives in the Pacific are nice but those many safe territories in my opinion are even nicer.
The way Michigan has been playing this year I would think playing AA would be much less painful.
What happens when you lose or break a key?
Considering my knowledge of the wiring systems for Fords of that series I reach up into the dash and snatch the wires out of the back of the ignition switch and proceed to start and drive vehicle. At my leisure I order a new switch and key (which if I recall correctly is about $20). I am assuming that the key broke in the ignition switch. I have never in 20+ years of driving lost a vehicle key. As a matter of fact the only key related issue I have ever had was having one break in the door lock. Solution was similar to above. I used a coat hanger to get in and ordered a new door lock. That particular vehicle was amusing about keys. I had a right and left door keys, and ignition key, and the original that fit the front and rear trunks.
