Where to buy lots of AA chips for cheap and in many colors!!!!!

@Narvik:

@Baron:

After opening round, if you keep an AAA instead of an Infantry, you are gambling a lesser chance to hit one plane, 1/6 or below 1/6 (1/8 or 1/10), against a 2/6 odds of killing an enemy unit, attacker’s choice.

Yes forgot to mention that. Also attackers planes should get to retreat at any time.

You could put a cap on shots at planes. I think the AA’s shottin every round may hurt the Axis the most.
Also have to worry about the AA dicing your planes out on 1st round.

Have a game. Using the D12. Also going to test the D12 @2 1st round then @1 rest of rounds.

For the D6 games I try D6 AA shots at planes 1st round and then the D10’s rest of round.

What about the old AA guns as light AA, 1 die roll, and the new ones as heavies, 2 die rolls?

I think now that the no subs vs subs combat is not necessary at all.

Explaining: subs are considered a separate group inside the navy.
Allowing subs to attack subs still be as OOB rules.
For example, 2 subs can decide to attack another 3 subs with 2 DDs and 2 TTs in a same sea-zone.
If attacker target subs, then the defender had only to decide whether or not his 3 subs will submerge or combat.
Many will prefer to submerge, so there will be no combat.
If defender choose to fight, then it will be 2 subs@2 vs 3 subs@1, as per OOB rule.
So sometimes, but seldom, subs can sink subs as history reveal.

You get to choose in that case. If you choose armor, your attack suffers. If you choose infantry and you take, then you face the possibility of inadequate fodder for enemy counter attacks

I just bought some mini’s from Panzerschiffe and thought I’d paint them a flat, consistent AA color to use them to experiment with some ship-variation house rules.  Does anyone know what the best colors for matching the current AA country colors are?  Also, since the Panzerschiffe mini’s are in some sort of epoxy, what sort of paint should I use?  (Something easily sprayable would be ideal, if it works, as I’m no artist, and not concerned with detailing, only consistency and making them look like they “fit” in with the other pieces.)

Here are some nice models that could be used for adding generals to AA games.

Go to shapeways.com/product/LKWVTVBJC/global-set?optionId=55887495

Here’s what you get with the set:

Set of 37 pieces representing the generals and admirals for each army in WWII. Scaled to be compatible with Axis & Allies board game. Includes the following pieces, broken down by army:

United States: 1 General Patton, 1 General MacArthur, 1 Admiral Halsey, 2 US Generals (Eisenhower model), 2 admirals in dress blues, 1 admiral in dress whites.

United Kingdom: 2 UK Generals (Montgomery model), 1 generic general (Eisenhower model), 2 admirals in dress whites, 1 admiral in dress blues.

Soviet Union: 2 Soviet generals, 2 Soviet generals with winter greatcoat, 1 Soviet general with winter greatcoat and fur hat, 1 admiral in dress blues.

France: 2 French generals, 1 admiral in dress blues.

China: 1 general (Japanese general model)

Germany: 2 German generals, 3 German generals with winter greatcoat, 1 admiral in dress blues.

Italy: 1 Italian general, 1 admiral in dress whites.

Japan: 2 Japanese admirals, 3 Japanese generals.

A&A generals.jpg

The game linked in my signature is a game in which Russia lucked out and got paratroopers!  I think there were only a few rounds Russia ended up NOT getting the +10 IPC NO!

It was also, probably, the longest game in history.

PS: Russia won the game, despite England falling early!

You do not need cards just look at the overal forcast at that tiem and put it at those sections or roll “6” winter again