A&A Minis Module Support - Unit Requests

@Cinefyl:

do I NEED a starter/base set to get the rules for a particular flavor (Task Force, Flank, Zebra, etc.) Does a base/starter set have enough pieces and parts to let us actually get started (even on a limited scale) to give it a test run without spending major $$$

Thanks!

You don’t need a starter or base set to play if you download the rules.  Each domain (land, War at Sea, and Angels 20/Bandits High) is independent and incompatible with the others.  Within each domain, all sets are completely compatible and no set is necessarily better than another.  The exception is perhaps with the land based game.  In the first four sets the vehicles were not always to scale.  Players call them version 1 or V1.  From the set 1939-1945 and thereafter, the vehicles were much more to scale.  We call them version 2 or V2.  Many, but not all of the vehicles were then reissued.  Many of the soldiers were as well, but they are essentially identical.

The starters have barely enough to get started.  I highly recommend buying some boosters or used collections on eBay.  Btw, I have a few extra unopened 1939-1945 (land game) starter sets and a number of War at Sea boosters:

Flank Speed, x1 booster
Condition Zebra, x1 booster
Set V, x1 booster
Surface Action, x19 boosters

PM for more info if interested.  Good luck and have fun!

@spideyfan:

so just to be clear, Do the units of the various sets overlap? is there a chance for example that I get a booster for early war and i get a unit that is also in another booster pack like the desert one of the 39-45 one?

Yes you are correct. For example the Morris Armored car is in both Early war and NA. You can review sets here: http://www.tintirinti.com/search_AAM.aspx

Most cards that come with the units for both versions (1 & 2) have been revised.  Print the revised cards and everthing is playable together.

A good amount of units from version 1 have been re-released in version 2.  There was no scale for vehicles in V1, some units are almost the same as V2, some are wayyyyyy smaller.

V2 has bigger hexes to hold the larger size vehicles but both version’s maps work.

There are several different rules, I suggest to print the new ones, they are alot different.

@Der:

Now we’re talking… :evil:

Yes man! Your Erwin Rommel quote almost made me spit my drink all over the laptop. Hilarious. That’s awesome. I love that man. I wish HE could have run the whole show.

Thanks for the information!

I’m having trouble finding what years accurately reflect units Nationalist China can historically use. Do you happen to have any years for all the remaining units?

Sdkfz 222 (Germany) - 1939
20mm flak (Germany) - 1939
P-40 Tomahawk (USA) -1939
P-51D Mustang (USA) - 1945
T-26b (SU) - 1939
IL-10 Sturmovik (SU)
T-34/76 (SU)
SU-122 (SU)
SU-76 (SU)

thats a sweet deal, a store around here had a buy one get one half off deal, but they didnt say the 1/2 off one had to be equal or leser in value, so i bout 1 booster pack and got the starter set 1/2 off, i ended up doing that 13 times. i have more dice than i know what to do with!

I continue to experiment on how best to use those big point tanks….

One thing I have discovered as a bad tactic is “hiding” the tank behind cover (behind a blocking hex) and then trying to spring it on other tanks or infantry.  This almost always ends up with my tank getting charged and cornered, because I had blocked my own LOS… and the opposing tanks could get close to me without drawing fire.

I think tanks are best out in the open… on a hill…with a big field of fire to deter opposing units--  and then at the end of the game if need be parking it on the objective… (for tanks with strong rear defense against close assaults).

p.s On a side note-- I am beginning to hate the SS-Panzergrenadier.  Only when I am shooting at it, of course.