Axis & Allies Wiki

@Harvard3X1 Thanks for the comment :)
The Panther is the regular panzer. The Tiger 2 is SS-Panzer and the E100 is Heavy SS- Panzer
The SS-Panzer can be produced by a max of 4 from round “late 1942” and cost 2 IPC upgraded from a normal panzer in Berlin. Attack at 4 and defend at 5
The Heavy SS-Panzer can be produced by a max of 2 from round “late 1944” and cost 2 IPC upgraded from a SS-Panzer in Berlin. Attacks and Defends at 5 and uses 2 dice. Its has 2 Hit Points as capital ships.

@Quirky-Turtle At least you have an ocean as an excuse. Here it just a truck ride north…

@Mr_Tricorder:

Have tried them out yet? If so, how big of a difference do they make?

Yes.
It’s definitely faster.
And it removes irritating conversations like:
“3! Hit!”
“Wait! Didn’t you announce rolling for your destroyer?”
“Nope. I wanted the cruiser.”
“Hmm”

@SS:

Siredblood has a you tube video of drilling colored dice

I got my inspiration from that one and added the extra holes for 2,3 and 4.

Thanks for the advice!  I will try a different primer.

@CWO:

@Drfrozenfire:

I’m going to probably print a large transparency map based on the board I’ve been designing based on satellite imagery that is in some serious high definition.

If you’ll be using satellite imagery as the basis for your map, will you be keeping the real-world proportions of the land masses and oceans?  The Global 1940 game map, for practical game play purposes, distorts both the size and the shape of various geographic areas.

No, I’ve taken the satellite images and enlarged certain areas so that there is room in places like Europe for the large scale of battle that often takes place there. When I’m done with the map file, I’ll post it here if you’re interested

When I painted my units, I had issues with Britain, I originally made 2 schemes, then decided I only wanted the tan, not green… On my painting, I used a combo of lacquer Enamel and acrylic, it was at the enamel stage, but I soaked them in paint thinner (in all preparation to consider them toast and order new units)… but they came clean, they soaked for 10 min or so, and I used my tooth brush (yes mine lol, bristle’s turned green, and yes, I still use it, the green faded away HAHA) to scrub away the paint film.

@CWO:

@wartorn:

EXCELLENT!!! These are amazing. These will be easy to trim out to just an outline. Thanks a bunch!!!

My pleasure.  Good luck with your project.  When you refer to putting the unit images in each country, are you talking about modifying a digital version of the map or are you talking about printing out something on paper and placing it on the physical map?  Just wondering.

I plan on modifying the digital map from YGH’s post a while back. I do like the map that cyanight made for his sheet metal table, so i think i may end up using that one (base map is the same as YGH’s, but with a couple of alterations)  http://www.axisandallies.org/forums/index.php?topic=33872.0

I’ve updated the approximates sizes/scales for some basic and alternate units.  Keep in mind that many classes of ship and aircraft, though in the same class, varied in size so my sizes will be off on some units.  If your like me I want to be able to visually distinguish between units quickly so keeping classes similar in size I find works the best. Below is my guide/attempt to standardize my pieces where they are relatively the same size for their respective class.  I’ve added some alternative classes that I use in my games and ties in some of the alternate pieces that HBG is putting out.  If you need something scaled and not sure how to do it let me know and I’ll do my best to help.

Carrier 6.5 cm 1/3700
Light/Escort Carrier 5cm 1/3100
Battleship 6 cm 1/4000
Cruiser 5.5 cm 1/3700
Light Cruiser 5 cm 1/3400
Destroyer 4.8 cm 1/2400

(cm is for the wingspan)
Heavy Bomber 4.7 cm 1/700
Medium Bomber 3.5 cm 1/600
Light Bomber 1.7 cm 1/600
Heavy Fighter (Twin engine) 2.8 cm 1/600
Fighter 2.2 cm 1/500
Light Fighter 1.7 cm 1/600
Dive/Torpedo Bomber 3 cm 1/500