How much complexity do you want in your Axis games?

@Manzgame The Revised game from 2004 had a map that folded that way, but it was smaller than both the Classic 1984 map and the current 1942 map.

@AndrewAAGamer Massa still plays at IAAPA, if you are interested at taking another crack at him. He is still one of the best I have ever played. Leemorrison is there too.

From the time we played online at the legendary “Game Table Online (GTO)”, I have kept some file documents of the bids we made at the beginning of the matches. These are actually Custom Setups. Here is the pdf files: https://www.dropbox.com/s/80ejfkvzh7f57fv/A%26A Custom setups.pdf?dl=0

Axis & Allies Custom Setup:
WHAT: As an alternative to the traditional beginning set-up for the game, bidding allows you an optional supplement to a country’s normal starting position. This supplement can be units and/or IPC’s. Bidding is done before play begins. In multi-player games you are also bidding to select a side with the winning bidder generally selecting his partner from those remaining [see recommendations below].

REVISED AXIS & ALLIES: You are bidding to play the AXIS side. Players may start with any bid from the list that follows. Subsequent bids can be made by any other player for any amount that is of less advantage to the axis [further below on the list] than the the current bid. Bidding ends when no one is willing to take a bid of less advantage than the current bid. That winning bidder is an Axis player. If you make an Allied bid, you are still bidding to be Axis, but you are giving those extra units or IPCs to your opponents.

AXIS & ALLIES 1942: You are bidding to be the ALLIED side. Players may start with any bid from the list that follows. Subsequent bids can be made by any other player for any amount that is of less advantage to the allies [further above on the list] than the the current bid. Bidding ends when no one is willing to take a bid of less advantage than the current bid. That winning bidder is an Allied player. If you make an Axis bid, you are still bidding to be Allies, but you are giving those extra units or IPCs to your opponents.

Here is a list of the custom setups you can select in the table:

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REVISED EXAMPLE: One player starts the bidding with the number of extra IPCs worth of units he will accept to play the Axis. Then if another players thinks he can do better with less, he’ll bid lower. The players continue alternating bids until no one wishes to go lower. Unless agreed otherwise a Japanese bid is lower than a German bid for the same amount.

For example in REVISED Axis & Allied bidding if Erwin and Winston are playing bidding might go like:

Erwin: “I’ll play Germany +9”. That means he’s willing to take the Axis countries with 9 extra IPCs worth of gear to start the game with.
Winston then says: “I’ll play Japan +9.”
Erwin then counters with: “Germany +8.”
Winston says, “fine… you play Axis.”

So now Erwin gets to start with 8 extra IPCs worth of troops for Germany. Per the list this would mean: an extra tank and infantry in Africa at the beginning of the game.

Note in Axis & Allies 1942 bidding procedes in the opposite direction.

RECOMMENDATION: If players are NOT at similar experience levels - DON’T let bidding decide teams. Especially in 2 vs 2 team games it is recommended that you select partners FIRST and THEN bid. This will avoid the situation where 2 very experienced players are paired against 2 less experienced players and make for more competitive game play.Custom setup in Axis & Allies Revised & Spring 1942 Custom setup in Axis & Allies Revised & Spring 1942

Considering that:

In the measurement what is mainly seen is the height of the stack and The color of the top chip and maybe although less of the second, As well as that a possible misidentification of the quantity should not result in large error deviations.
I think that: The best guarantee is given if the distinction is made by fives of increasing quantity with the characteristics of the change for each fives as obvious as possible. The chip with the highest value should be placed on top, followed by the others in descending order, which should preferably only be gray and up to four, so that the height of the stack represents a corresponding quantity.
I tentatively named it the “pentadic system” from the Greek word “pente” meaning “five”. Τhe relevant table in pdf format at the link: https://www.dropbox.com/s/7utsvihpqec86r6/AA Chips.pdf?dl=0
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@barnee
Ok, thank you! I’ll have to read more on that.

I hope this is the correct place to ask this.

Did anyone try to play one of these older games (as discussed in this forum) with AAZ?

So say Axis and Allies D-Day (one of my favourites BTW) with AAZ?

thrasher,

42 is closer to even balance out OOB, and debatably a little quicker. It may be worth looking at that for the first game and try the more unique(compared standard games) 1941 scenario after.