Imperious Leader's G40 Map - question?

@macdown343
Why don’t you use the existing map files or do you want to customrise territory’s ?

I’m not averse to printing a map at all, and the map files I’ve seen are indeed waaaay better. Truth is I just recently purchased the 1940 games and would like to get some use out of them before I abandon them for the master map. And will definitely look for the sticker paper my next trip to wallyworld. Thanks for the suggestion DK.

@coachofmany:

@AlphaKappa:

@Buran:

I have just received my US units I have attached some photos.  I was just wondering if what the fifth air unit is?  It looks like an F6F Hellcat fighter.  But there is nothing on the website about it.

Nice!  They look pretty good.  How’s the color compared to the OOB stuff?

HBG Olive Drab color is very close to Global 40 2nd Edition IMHO.

I don’t know, Coach!  I just bought a few of your new Shermans from a friend and I was pleasantly surprised that they match my 1st Edition US pieces pretty well.   :wink:

These Sherman sculpts are ace.  You guys did a good job with these and now I’m looking forward to getting some of the other ones too.

EDIT:  Okay, upon closer inspection in daylight, I changed my mind.  They are definitely closer in tone to 2nd Edition US.

The best approach I’ve seen was a friend who cut his factories in half with a hacksaw. Large factories are majors, while the smaller, halved factories are minors.

I’ve got mine painted three different colors. Bought a lot of 50 for a few dollars from a vendor at Nashcon in May 2016.

Before Nashcon, I used red Monopoly hotels for the major factories and the green hotels for minor factories. I still like to use the green ones every now and again because I think they’re nifty.

The next group of infantry, will be, DESERT LIGHT INFANTYRY.

Until next time.

Cheers!

John

Thanks LHoffman,

Your appreciation is my inspiration… because I refuse to use a sheet of glass, my research has lead me to a material called styrene (google it) which is a type of plastic sheet that can be directly printed on. All indications point to this method being the last alternative to glass and although it cost around $240, it looks to be my best option. Even after flushing $300 so far in a crappy print, and installation complications, I’m happy with this new direction if it turns out the way I’ve been told it will. Basically it’s flexible plastic, so it should lie flat without air pockets getting trapped, and because it doesn’t get laminated, the colors should be slightly brighter. If it is sensitive to scratching than there is a clear film sheet by 3M I can look into, that’s where I’m at right now.

@Tall-Paul amazing craftsmanship

Pretty ingenious, definitely food for thought since it gives us options for future modifications. Nice job.