Rules A&A Pacific 1940 2nd Edition French

@CWO:

@John:

I think my first edition Anzac Cruiser is the Kent Class and the other is the County Class for the second edition. Is this what you were saying?

That’s the most likely hypothesis, using the nomenclature of the rulebooks.Â

Ok, cool, so it is the British Class Cruiser. Good to know!

Thanks again! :-D

@nutbar:

i decided to create my own p40 setup

Can you post that??

I wouldn’t go to house rules as an option. Its a tough time for the allies, but you have to counter. If they build carriers, try building a bunch of subs. Their cheap to take hits, almost 3 to 1 cost of a carrier to dodge bullets. If you attack chances are you can ding the carriers and take out DD’s, and your allies can finish the job before Jap can fix them. Try to set up 3 fleets, all similar so if they attack one, you can counter a weakened Jap fleet with the other 2 before they repair. As for the Asian ground battle 3 IC would be tough. I’ve seen 2 and that was a bitch. It is easier for the UK if Jap has air, because its hard for them to protect newly taken tt. If they are dropping that much $ in tanks though ($6 a pop) like $40-$50 ipc they can’t be putting to many DD’ or other cheap ships into their navy making it more vulnerable IMO.

@Texas:

I am certainly not suggesting to buy another game JUST for the chips.  But if someone happens to have both, the chips are interchangeable.  In some long A&A games, more chips might be handy.  You could also use the Warlords black chips as 10s or to mean something else.

Multicolored mini poker chips rock. I use the crap out of them in my own game designs. In Pacific I use orange and yellow chips to indicate damage on installations. I match colors with counters in A&A minis land and naval to use as backings for the micron thin counters, or just by color in very large battles when I run out of counters.

@Texas:

Of course, it might be more trouble than it is worth to sort them or whatever.  I know some gamers combine game parts from different games into a big “pool” of game equipment.  I usually keep games and their parts separated, so it will take a bit of extra effort to dig out two games to play just one game but wanting extra chips.

Back in the day a friend of mine had a bad habit of “pooling” game equipment. He had a huge collection (thousands) of the airfix/revell 1/72 world war 2 soldiers all mixed together in a freaking tackle box. Most unpainted. It took hours to sort through them when we wanted to table top battle or “enhance” the original A&A. Not a fan of pooling.

@Texas:

Anyway, it was just an FYI.

Thank you for adding another board game to my want list…

If you are looking on what to use for storage for your game pieces then you should definitely check out Field Marshal Games’ website.  Now it’s more expensive but I think it’s an absolutely AWESOME addition that is a must have for Axis & Allies.

Here is a link to their new Field Marshal Ammo Box Combat Chest.
http://www.fieldmarshalgames.com/field-marshal-games-accesories/field-marshal-ammo-box.html

looks great, however i had same issue with the wife, the price made it a no go

Ok thats what i wanted to know 8-)

That’s what I was assuming but for some reason it seemed odd. Compared to the old AAP, it gives the Brits/ANZAC a bit of an advantage over the Japanese.

Record response time BTW! Thank you.

Right, except if Japan invades Dutch territory or attacks the UK/ANZAC without being attacked by them first, the US also goes to war.