Did you play A&A before you played A&A Revised?

Hi all,

First time posting. Must say, a very robust site with lots of A&A content.

If anyone is still interested in playing A&A Revised by email, I encourage you to check out the International Axis&Allies Player Association (IAAPA). We are the oldest online A&A club, still going strong for almost 30 years. Our club is free to join and games are free to play with other club members through our website and online dice roller. We also host numerous club tournaments throughout the year that all members are welcome to play,

The only requirement is that you pass a simple test to make sure you understand the rules. That, and you want to have fun playing the best game in the world.

Please visit www.axisandallies.net for more information, or email me spud@axisandallies.net if you have any questions.

Spud
IAAPA

http://boardgamegeek.com/ look there

OK
Thanks for info… I was really wondering why people was spamming us if we had any revised edition left for sale.
We have sold 4 times the amount of The enlarged gameboard for use with revised edition 2004 so far in 2010 than in 2009.

I think we are in agreement, I’ll only buy the 2nd one when I do anticipate 14 units being placed.  I ment the 10-11 unit thing in addition to the IC so I need to be earning about 45 so I can buy 1 IC+10 inf and then place 10 inf (say 3 fic, 7 jap) and then place my IC on either Sin/Ind.  Since I’m already at 44-45, I know next turn I’ll have no trouble spending 45 on 13-14 units.

My typical turns/income will be

Rd 1 - 30 (3 trns, 1 arm, save 1)  - collect 33 (chi + bury) + 1 save
Rd 2 - 34 (1 trn, 6 inf, 1 arm save 3) - collect 37 (chi, sin, bury, sfe, yak) + 3 save (you may be able to take ind but I didn’t count it)
Rd 3 - 40 (1 IC, 8 ground units) - collect 43 (above + ind, aus, hi)
Rd 4 - Here I’d probably pass on a 2nd (purchased) IC until Rd 5 but if I was able to take Novo (or Kaz) in J3 or took Ind in J2 I’d probably be over 45.  So in that case I’d buy the 2nd IC and still place 10 units.  I also have no problem waiting another rd.  Spend my 43 on 8 inf 3 arm save 4 and then in Rd 5 buy the IC and perhaps place on Sin or Ind in this case.

Also the turn that I am short 1 unit is the turn I’ll move the AA to the mainland to cover my IC.

@ncscswitch:

Baiting is best done AFTER you have determined that your opponent might be subject to it.  The most common way of determining that is by a moderately risky attack by your opponent in the first 1-2 moves of the game.  If they roll for moderate odds battles (70% or less) early on, then future baiting may pay off.

Or if they try for a Russian Triple on Russia 1. :P

But honestly, baiting only pays off when you are winning.  Otherwise, baiting will always help your opponent.

@Craig:

c) Naval units can be placed with other naval units or in territories adjacent to a power’s land

This would create some interesting bids… in games where the bid was high enough
(but with the auction bid system, I doubt there are many bids of + or - 8 or more to allow naval units)

And yes, I know you can vote for May already…
(I believe this poll will run in May as well, as far as I know…)

I meant to add that… the fun ends for the German navy pretty quickly…

The Carrier is a nice addition. After years of resistance I’ve dropped my pride and in my current game added one. Although I lost my Baltic fleet on U.S.4, it allowed me to control the north against determined Allied play through G4. I could have devoted more IPCs and held it longer, but I cut my losses and pulled my Ftrs. More meat and potatoes were needed.

So I’ve finally seen the  light- the G1 Carrier/ 8 Inf build is solid…damn you all…