Recommendations for 3D printers to print Axis and Allies pieces, and customizations?

I want to invite everyone to post their mods and scenarios at the Axis & Allies Wiki. Most of the material there is for TripleA but it would be a good place for non-TripleA material as well.

Don’t worry about categories, I can add them in later. As always, add don’t subtract. Don’t change other people’s material except to correct typos and duplications.

Post here if you have any questions.

Roger Cooper

@cwo-marc
And when you consider how all the other units, tanks, fighters, bombers, and infantry are all their own scales, having consistency in class seems to make the most sense. At least to me. Even if units are the same size in real life, as you said, its easier for non-historians/enthusiasts to pick up the game if unit type x is scale size x.
Maybe if this was just a naval game or a land war game, then all units could be the same scale. As 3D printing becomes more common, I was interested in hearing how others approached this.
Thanks

Also, 4 out of your 10 marines are actually F4F Wildcat fighters. The Zeros and Wildcats have to do with a rule about carrier fighters with a reduced price tag and a reduced move (from 4 to 3, I seem to remember).

-Midnight_Reaper

@Midnight_Reaper well, i use the 3 pieces of the first image, they serve me well, for that they are.
Now, the system and the mechanics of the game are made for a fast gameplay, and map and combat are more a -ww2 in europe- theme or abstraction, instant of a true 100% historical simulation.
Yes, random dice can by a problem some times, but rock-paper-scissors system can minimice the dice factor. And there are some post-production official optional rules and ideas, i find in the forums, to engance gameplay.
Wen i playtest all options, i can put here, if you want to know, my full opinion on the game.

Pretty easy to paint.  You could always just spray them one color too.

If you are really looking for a good finish on all your HBG pieces, you could buy a couple small cans of differing lacquers and test each one. $20 should get almost 3 cans worth. It may be a waste to some degree, but at least you can know for sure which one works best.

I have a flat Testors lacquer/sealant spray that I used on Tall Paul’s finished pieces. Granted, these were painted first, so the effect may be thrown off. However, I will say that I did not observe any level of gloss on the HBG or OOB pieces after I applied it. It was quite flat as advertised. FWIW.

@AlphaKappa:

How does their height compare to the OOB infantry pieces?  The pictures on HBG’s website make them look pretty tall, but without seeing them side-by-side, it’s hard to tell.

Can anyone offer any insight, or maybe even post a picture (if you’re feeling generous with your time)?  Any advice would be appreciated!   Thanks.

Note that the OOB infantry sculpts aren’t all the same height; they vary from nation to nation, as you can see from some of the pictures I posted here:

http://www.axisandallies.org/forums/index.php?topic=30440.0

This may sound like an improbable source, but another idea would be for you to go to some local dollar stores and look around.  Back when I was making myself a dice tower, I discovered that some dollar store chains sell (among all the miscellaneous stuff they have in stock) some plain unpainted rectangular wooden trays of various sizes, made of very thin wood.  Their designs could not be simpler – a bottom and four sides glued together, all made of flat wooden pieces – and they’re cheap in both price and appearance, but they’re about the right size for what you have in mind and they would probably look quite nice if you applied some dark wood stain to them.  And because they’re so inexpensive, picking up as many as you need for your table would be very affordable.  It would also be easy to customize them by, for example, subdividing the larger models into sections by cutting some balsa wood sticks (or other types of woods) to suitable sizes and gluing them inside the trays before you stain them.