Vector Control Marker and Icons for Industrial Complexes and Bases for your Custom Printouts

Here’s another pic in dimmer light, which is a better comparison to the before picture above.

The silver pops nicely. Before, in the same lighting situation, I couldn’t see most of the border lines at all.

I used the Edding 5300 silver acrylic paint marker with a 1-2 mm tip
The silver seems to really catch what little light there is in the room.

As the paint the marker ran low of paint it was harder and harder to control, so I reccomend just stopping and using a fresh paint marker if this happens. A few of the last lines I did are fatter than I would like because of this.
But the overal result is a huge improvement.

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@Valladares Noted! Will change ASAP

All, I’ve finally gotten a 3D printer of my own, so I have been able to launch my own little Etsy shop with the mission of getting these models out there as affordably as possible! Huzzah!

While my shapeways store will stay open, doing self-fulfilled prints on Etsy is going to be a win-win; much more of the proceeds going directly to creators, which brings the price down for everyone. The only con is that I will have to maintain the 3D printer and do all of my own post-processing…

Anyway, I wanted to welcome everyone here to the shop with a 10% off coupon for the rest of 2021! Just use coupon code AADOTORG21 at checkout. Come be one of my first customers! Visit my etsy shop here: https://www.etsy.com/shop/NathanDetr0itDesigns

I’ll be adding new things and ideas constantly - including bundling items up for complete kits ala G40 etc., so please DM me or respond below and let me know what else you would like to see!

@Quirky-Turtle At least you have an ocean as an excuse. Here it just a truck ride north…

I plan on printing some out from Siredblood’s link.  I watched his video and you can certainly do it that way.  My only concern with adhesive backed “stickers” is that with all the handling of game pieces, I can imagine that the stickers begin to peel up after a while. If you’re going to use the adhesive backed stickers, might I recommend to apply thin CA glue around the outside edge of the sticker after you’ve burnished it down on the carrier deck.  You can get some thin CA at your local hobby shop where they sell RC planes, or just order it online.  Because it is literally as thin as water, you’ll need to apply it with some sort of makeshift precision applicator.  But after that, you won’t have to deal with annoying stickers that don’t want to stay down tight.

Also, if you use a glossy type sticker paper, after you’ve applied it and the carrier is “all done”, spray the entire piece with a light coat of Testor’s Dullcote spray laquer.  You’ll get rid of the sheen both on the plastic and from the glossy paper. All the colors will “blend” together and the piece will look much better.  :wink:

I use bingo chips on them…glue them on…using custom Infantry in my games I paint them to signify what they are…they work well. Also if you buy Infantry with small bases, this fixes that problem too

Really nice models that stand out well with a rather simple paint scheme. Well done!

@robbie358:

Hello all.  I thought I would solicit your thoughts on which types of pieces in any version of A&A scream for painting the most.

IMHO, the most confusing piece on the board in the original Pacific and Pacific 1940 is the USA fighter in China.  Having to differentiate between a Chinese fighter that looks American and any USA fighters in that zone seems like a headache waiting to happen.

Otherwise, I would say the pro-Axis and pro-Allies neutrals in Europe 1940 need attention.  The fact is that upon being attacked, you’re supposed to pick any random country to donate an infantry to that territory.  If the attacker doesn’t win, the infantry stay there but cannot be moved.  Seems like confusion might set in eventually.

Your thoughts?

HBG has British infantry for sale. I bought 25 and painted them white to use for neutral armies.