Need help getting Siredblood cash

@Playing-Kid
Not much worse than a creased matt.
Mt first try would be to warm the fold with a hair dryer/heat gun, depending how much heat the vinyl can handle. May help you move the material back into the correct position.
Luck.

The key that I’ve seen is the dam rifles like to peel from use and I do use my pieces a lot. So main reason why I asked if there was a better sticking primer.

With some specific parts of pieces, I think moderate chipping and flaking of paint is going to be inevitable, especially with the rifle ends of the infantry pieces.  Those end pieces (the rifle barrels) flex and bend around when being handled.  Therefore, you need to find a flexible primer and paint to work with that flexing.  Latex paint is one type that comes to mind.  This type of paint is used heavily by scale RC airplane guys (me included).  As a scale RC airplane is flying in the air, the wings and control surfaces get flexed.  Furthermore, fluctuations in temperature and humidity make the wooden structure of the RC plane expand and contract.  They need a paint that works with all this flexing and contracting so that the paint doesn’t flake off and chip away.  Latex paint.

I have not tried it on scale miniature game pieces, so I cannot say with certainty if it works just as well in this arena.  All you can do is try it and see.

Cheers,
Busarider

Thanks DMcLaren. Those are really good tips as well. :-)

Getting in (4) new collections this week:
Austrailia & New Zealand Roundels
SS Shields and Flags
Japanese Meatballs without white border
Axis Minors Flags with Aircraft markings

ANZAC And AXIS MINORS.ai.pdf

I’m not aware of such a blank outline map existing.  Your best option might be to cover the game map with several taped-together sheets of clear acetate (the kind used for purposes like overheard projection) and trace the borders with a felt pen to produce a blank outline.  You’d then have various options for transfering this outline to the wood surface.  A low-tech method would be to cover the wood surface with sheets of carbon paper (if you can still find any, since it’s gone out of style), place your acetate outline over the carbon paper, then trace over the borders with a hard pencil.  Alternately, you could scan or digitally photograph your acetate outline and use that as the printing file you mentioned.

Game time this weekend, Axis won with Japs taking India, Pearl and Filips!  8-)

thinbluebbq & others,

––Here’s the “link” to the “scans” of the I-94 decals.

http://www.i-94enterprises.com/products/decals-setting-solution/decal-scans/

––I-94 Enterprises doesn’t have EVERY decal scheme in the world, but they have very many that you can use for painting your A&A units. I not only RECOMMEND them, but I seriously suggest you look at the “SCANS” of the actual decals before ordering so that you’ll know exactly what you’re getting. I’d say these decals are cost-effective and will make your units look soo much SHARPER in their detail versus hand-painting, but that’s just MHO. So far I’ve already bought about $350 worth and I have a ways to go to get to everything detaild/painted. The pics Lucas showed above should be very helpful.

“Tall Paul”

P.S.-Here are some “Risk Factories” that “Allworkandnoclay” has just completed with the aid of some
I-94Enterprises decals.

riskfactory-all01.jpg

I think that the map most definitely achieves your criteria’s.    I am not such a fan of the colors but they fit with what you want, and are simply a knee-jerk omg reaction that will dissipate.  I like the de-cluttering of it thou, and it is definitely easy to see who starts where this way.

When you get a final version up I’d be tempted to print it out as a replacement board myself specially if you put up the PSD and allow us to make our own modifications if needed… Love modifying my boards!