What's the best material to use when printing a custom map?

@Playing-Kid
Not much worse than a creased matt.
Mt first try would be to warm the fold with a hair dryer/heat gun, depending how much heat the vinyl can handle. May help you move the material back into the correct position.
Luck.

Nice work @ari236

@Playing-Kid said in My First Custom Map:

You can use Gimp as a great free software to make your maps

And I agree with Gimp. That’s the tool I used for working on my map files.

Lompestein, thanks for the complements, pretty much everybody else was underwhelmed. I mounted a 5 ft version on press board I cut into a circle and mounted on a lazy susan so you could spin it. Played twice on it but the guys I played with were interested in the regular maps.

I made this after injuring my leg at work and was immobile for a while. It took a long time, about a couple of months of daily tinkering. I enjoyed it, kept me busy.

What I had to do was cut the map into about 16 to 20 horizontal strips. I didn’t keep the original files they died with an old computer I used. I used the polar function in gimp under distorts to spin the map into a circle.

I would then individually stretch vertically the strips to account for distortions at the outer and inner extremes. Spin unspin adjust, spin unspin adjust.

All the graphics had to be erased before doing this.

Repair all the borders. I also had to tweak individual land masses and continents by cutting them out and pasting them on new clear layers stretch and pull trial and error.

I believe the xcf file still has the graphics on a transparent layer over the map.

Feel free to do whatever you want to it and send me a pic of your results.

My motivation was the Gleason New Standard Map of 1892
https://www.amazon.com/Flat-Earth-Map-Gleasons-Rowbotham/dp/B01GQUW6PO?th=1

There was also a similar map used in WW 2 for people to track the progress of the war at home.

He was sent to the Russian front…

Nice tables guys, something for me to do in the future

Thanks! IPC have been spent, now I’m waiting for the mobilize new units phase ;)

Fellow A&A Gamers,

––This thread will eventually contain ALL of the Anzac units that I’ve had detailed & painted by the “WARMACHINE Team”.

––So far the list includes:

ANZAC

ANZAC ARMY
Anzac Infantry
––Anzac (Infantry, Rifle)…(Starting at message #1)
Anzac Armored Vehicles
––M-3 Stuart “Honey” (Tank, Light)…Outback Camo scheme…(Starting at message # )

–-----------------------------------------------------------------------------

Everyone.

----Here are the Anzac Rifle Infantry that Chad Coffman, a.k.a. “Allworkandnoclay”, painted for me. All 20 of the Australian Infantry, nick-named “Diggers”, after their WWI fight at Galipoli, are shown here in a group portrait just after completion by Chad. Note the intricate Anzac ensign he painted on their bases. This guys painting talent is simply awesome! So just sit back, put another shrimp on the barbie, and enjoy, mate.

“Tall Paul”
anzac_inf2b.jpg

@robbie358:

Hello all.  I thought I would solicit your thoughts on which types of pieces in any version of A&A scream for painting the most.

IMHO, the most confusing piece on the board in the original Pacific and Pacific 1940 is the USA fighter in China.  Having to differentiate between a Chinese fighter that looks American and any USA fighters in that zone seems like a headache waiting to happen.

Otherwise, I would say the pro-Axis and pro-Allies neutrals in Europe 1940 need attention.  The fact is that upon being attacked, you’re supposed to pick any random country to donate an infantry to that territory.  If the attacker doesn’t win, the infantry stay there but cannot be moved.  Seems like confusion might set in eventually.

Your thoughts?

HBG has British infantry for sale. I bought 25 and painted them white to use for neutral armies.