AARHE: Phase 3: Revised NA's

@Bob77:

I would try a5 for tac bomber

I like it too.
Fighter A4 D5 vs TcB A5 D4 would be like mirror.
One is better for defense the other for offense.
Also, it keeps StB superior with A6.
My personnal taste would keep D1 for StB.
StB will still remain OP and an issue with Dark Sky.

All this is really about what you are aiming at and what is considered an issue in OOB roster.
Cruiser is slightly buffed considering how it is currently underpowered.

@all-encompassing-goose Sounds good - hope you have lots of fun with it!

Hmmm, How do I alter the topic title? It says 1942 as the year - that was a mistake - the darn thing took so long to type.

@NilOGrav:

Big thanks for Young Grasshopper,

Played this last weekend in combination with the Halifax rules (option 2, the greater Commonwealth). Fantastic. We have added a ton of luxury materials (NO-cards, scoreboards, country sheets, , IPCs, tokens, etc) to help speed things up and are looking for a year now how to create a one day game w/o losing the characteristics.

This completely answered our questions! Congratulations on a job well done.

chrz Eppo

Thanks for the comments NiIOGrav, glad to help… I honestly think these VOs are a no brainer for those that want to sum things up in a 10 hour day. I will be releasing my new game accessory card deck soon, keep an eye out for my next “essential customizations” video.

Cheers.

@Der:

Hi Marc -

I put in the possibility of removal of the chips in case the player was faced with a huge attacking force and wanted to withdraw everything but did not want the enemy to capture and use all of his entrenchment. (kind of a scorched earth thing)

I put some entrenchment in the Causasus because on my map Stalingrad is located there. I didn’t put any in Hitler’s Atlantic wall because my map starts in 1942 and the player can always add some later. Plus the German player gets an automatic 3 entrenchment anyway when the Allies try to land from the sea.    Â

Okay, thanks for the clarifications.  About the scorched earth thing, the ideal technique (and I’m just kidding here) would be to wait until the attacking enemy infantry falls into the abandoned entrenchments, then to fill in the trenches by blasting their walls with pre-set charges of TNT.  Sort of killing two birds with one stone.  :-D  In fairness, U.S. troops sometimes used a variation of this technique in the Pacific.  When confronted with a particularly tough dug-in Japanese position that would cost a lot of American casulties to clear by conventional assault methods, the troops would simply use a bulldozer to fill it in or collapse it.

@arwaker:

You chose a bad example, as the in “small” battle, the defender doesnt have an artillery. Get two battles, same unit mix, different size (1inf 1art vs 1inf 1art … 2inf 2art vs 2inf 2art) and see, how both battles are affected same.

Yes but mathematically, a battle with less units will vary in victory percentages then a battle with more units. 1 inf and 1 art vs 1 inf and 1 art will likely be so different as a normal amphibious assault, whereas a 10 inf and 10 art vs 10 inf and 10 art will be dramatically different, because you are channging the dice values for 20 units, where as in the small bale, you are only changing the dice value for 2 units.

1.  Where did you get the “buttons” your pieces are glued to?  I can’t find anything thats close.  I even thought about painting pennies or nickels (US 1 cent or 5 cent pieces) to glue my pieces on. Would be cheaper than buying anything i’ve seen.

Washers bought from “do-it center” Hillman fender washers– 1/8x3/4— item # 290001— box of 100 for $5 bucks…you can find them on internet and order

2.  Where did you get your pieces from.  And what size are they?  They look like 1/72 or 15 mm.  Having trouble finding good quality but inexpensive artillery, tanks, planes and ships.

Its all skytrex.com stuff  15mm infantry, 1/285 miroarmor, 1/2400 scale naval… about a buck each piece and if you place a large order shipping is free

3.  What size did you blow your map to?

60x36 from AAA flag and banner for about $155 bucks printed on 1/4 thick plastic sheets with vinyl decal applied. www.AAAflagandbanner.com  you send the link and money they print and ship.

I want to make a short game where germany has all the techs and the allies have to kill them both before time runs out… or the allies lose.