Deck building area control WWII game?

Depends on the intended audience.

For the more accessible games intended for 3+ in person playing(IE: 1941/1942SE), I would say late 1941 (not spring 41) would be the best time to start, for two reasons.

-The Japanese blitz/pearl harbor is a pretty dramatic start, and not having Japan start with a bunch of conquests paces their advance better.

-Russian winter counter offensive: Assuming it’s a multiplayer game, and someone is playing Russia alone, it’s more fun for Russia to have at least one turn on the offensive before defending for the rest of the relevant game time. Back and forth is more fun then defense only. The 1942 German setup is good from a game design point of view. Russia starts with positioning advantage vs superior German economy, which has superior might to the allies initially but inferior economy. It’s a double layer of asymmetric warfare.

For veteran players, the earlier the better really. An official game with a ~1936 start to provide for varied initial game states would be interesting, if nearly impossible to balance.

@DMcLaren thanks I agree he must be a veteran.

@SGT-Pitbull Awesome game table. Cool over head light.

@Young:

@bigalmeacham:

hey there…would you be so kind to make me a set of these excellent cards and obviously I pay you whatever to get them to me…
alan Meacham
rapid city, mi
p.s…maybe the “future” Michigan challenges your Toronto group

Have you tried ordering them from artscow? here’s the link…

http://www.artscow.com/gallery/playing-cards/grasshopper-n15lei8zzj4y

Just got mine, and I’m really pleased with them. :-)

If you go to a local printer, make sure they do everything in house… if they outsource it and problems arise, it will be a headache getting your money back from that middle man because they can’t absorb the cost the way they would if it was their own print.

@HBG wow

@CWO:

@ozimek1:

You could have painted at the borders, IPC values, territory names etc. on the glass. That way you could easily use the 3D map for different games by changing the glass overlay :)

I think that having different sheets of painted glass for different games would be an expensive proposition.  I don’t know how much Rorschach’s setup cost him, but the acrylic sheet which covers my own AA50 table set me back over a hundred bucks.

Yeah, I originally was going to etch all the borders onto the acrylic, but when you’re looking at $50 (give or take) per sheet for this size it would be far too expensive.  But, to be honest, the sheet is so close to the table anyway there is absolutely no mistaking the territories, so it’s all good.

And this way, if we want to play a different game, we just pop in a flat MDF panel underneath instead of the AA50 board and you’re good to go!

The entire table (not counting countless hours of time) cost me about $150 … still no legs on it though.

And, Jeremy and I finally finished our game.  17 rounds, 9 weeks (about an hour and a quarter, hour and a half a week) … Allied Victory when the Brits waltzed into a sparsely defended Berlin.