3rd Edition Rules Compendio v3.5 (Final)

Axis and Allies Classic, 2nd Edition
“Not-so-Obvious” Rules List:

“Stack” restriction – Players are restricted in the number of “stacks” they can create by the number of pieces that came in the original game. “Chipping” remains unrestricted. (Page 7, middle column)

Column Rolling – In ALL combats, dice are rolled by individual column from lowest to highest. Casualties are applied BEFORE rolling the next column’s attack. (Page 18)

During the COMBAT MOVEMENT PHASE, aircraft flying over a territory containing an enemy AA gun are fired upon as they fly over, even if they don’t end movement in that territory. (Page 13, right column)

*Newly purchased naval units are not allowed to be placed in sea zones containing enemy naval units. (Page 21, middle column)

If their original carrier was sunk, defending fighters may ONLY land on an island/island group or carrier in the same sea zone. Failure to do so results in elimination. (Page 15, left column)

Armor MAY “blitz” through a territory containing an AA gun or Industrial Complex. (Rules Clarification, last page, middle column)
a. AA guns still shoot at aircraft flying over their territory even after having been “blitzed” in this fashon. (Page 5, left column “combat is considered simultaneous”)

The Suez Canal can only be utilized if both Anglo-Egypt Sudan and Syria/Iraq are controlled by your side at the BEGINNING of your turn. (axisandallies.org, “the intent was always for the Suez to mimic the Panama Canal rules” -krieghund)

*optional rule on page 31 removes this restriction

I can offer a really useful and detailed response for classic (2nd ed.), but I haven’t played First Edition. Are the two similar enough that a 2nd edition example would be helpful?

@MeinFuhrer:

Played thrice now and have won them all as axis.  Seems a lot easier to win as Axis in this version.

If your playing a no RR game with a 0 bid and winning as Axis your Allies player is not very good (no disrespect intended).

Barring a total collaps of the dice I wouldn’t lose as Allies in a traditional no RR 3rd Edition game. It favors the Allies, most of the time I would give a bid of 18-20 depending on my opponent in a standard 3rd ED no RR.

If you playing no RR……

Round 1:

USSR hits Ukr with 6inf/2tnk/1ftr and roll it until Ukr is dead but do NOT lose the USSR fighter. Send 1 Ftr/Sub on the German Sub/Tranny. If you only hit 1 retreat the sub back to the North Sea (assuming Germany misses). If you clear them both its a bonus. Some people will hit Manch with 6 Inf/1Tnk. I chose not to. If this goes bad your going to get steam rolled on the back side by Japan. I stack Yak with 6 and put 1 Inf/1Tnk Novo. If all goes well you sink the German tanny/sub and take Ukraine with 2-3 ground. This forces Germany to hit the North Sea with only 1 cover ship (the sub of WE) and the remaining 4 ftrs/1bmr. Its to risky for them to try and send 1 plane after the UK tranny in the Lab. This weakens the hit on the North Sea and Germanys likely to lose more planes. They also have to deal with your forces in Ukr. Those USSR units, normally tanks, cannot be left alive. With the German Air committed to the North Sea Germany will likely be forced to use 1-2 tanks on that counter hit.

In a normal game (barring any oddities in the dice) Germany is down 1-2 planes at the conclusion of its turn R1. The rest is just adjusting and reacting to how the game unfolds.

If your playing with Technology…dont buy ANY IC’s with Japan. This opens you up to strat bombs by Heavy Bmrs. If you only have your original Capital the Allies can not reach with without LRA+HB. Buy 1-2 tranny per turn until your at 10+. Round 1 buy for Japan should ALWAYS be 2 Tranny 3  Inf. Sink Hawaii, Sink Hawaii, Sink Hawaii…use BB, Sub, Ftr, Bmr and kill China. Anything else and your taking risk and thinning out your other battles. Hawaii and China, be done, non combat move and place units.

I am currently deployed overseas and I am playing 1942 1ED. The classic version is much different…faster paced and harder for the Axis

note: I say I give bids of 18-20, the club I play in you have to state your placement with the bid (I.E. 20=2 men EE, 3 Men Libya, Tank Kwang).

If anyone is still interested in playing these, we’ve been setting up a site for PBEM play (through TripleA) for finding opponents and rating games.  If you usually play here, no need to change anything, just post that you are playing and would like your game rated in the Opponent’s Wanted Forum.  A full explanation of each rules set is also available:

http://cellargaming.com/phpbb

I would be more than willing to play anyone any of these variations via TripleA, especially 2nd Edition, Omaha (3rd edition) and Utah (3rd edition Russia Restricted) – PM me if you are interested in playing!

JD, Thanks. I’ll check em out.

Just one or two swipes with a toothbrush and the BB is clean!

RR is enough.

Anyway, often the best player are going for Japan or Germany for the challenge and the liberty. Axis (even more with RR) are rhythming the game.

None of them are official 3rd-Edition rules (except Submerging Subs), but they are tried & tested “House Rules” that a great many players use to even the odds & generally spice things up. You can add whatever rules you want to the game when you play with your friends, but these & many others–call them “semi-official”–have been “playtested” extensively and other players can tell you pretty accurately how they’ll affect your game.

In RR, USSR basically skips the Combat Move & Combat portions of their 1st turn, going straight to NonCombat from Purchase Units.

2-Hit BBs (grrrrrr :evil: )are exactly like GeZe said–all BBs have 2 “lives” as it were and must take 2 hits in a single battle to sink. In some versions, the BB hit only once is immediately “repaired” (restored to full strength) after the battle, in others, she stays with only 1 “life” until sunk.

Submerging Subs is more complicated. First of all, it is an official 3rd-Edition rule. In addition to its “Withdraw” ability, each SUB may also “Withdraw in Place”, that is, exit the battle after its counterattack (if any) without moving. The SUB is no longer subject to attack, but “pops up” after the enemy’s Combat round is over and remains in place until its own Combat Movement turn comes around. If it doesn’t move out of the SZ, it must do battle on its Combat round with the enemy forces. If another enemy force enters the SZ to join its allies, it must do so on Combat Move & combat occurs against your SUB–but without the other enemy units being involved since its not their turn!Otherwise, the maneuver is the same as Withdrawing, you just don’t go anywhere.

Ozone27