We need an allied playbook.

@barnee

Yeah, it took me a while to figure out as well. Before I had TripleA I was super frustrated not being able to read those files.

Hey NavySeal,
I have done the same thing. I am kind of a piece junkie so when new editions come out, I often buy several copies for all the pieces. Of course, then I end up with too many of certain things. Even with the unit sculpts. I will want a lot of infantry, tanks, artillery, planes, etc. but not so much with capital ships, even for US and Japan.
So, I count out what I want to keep for my own games and put the rest on eBay. Sometimes I might lump all the extras in a big lot or make up a bunch of little sets. There are guys out there that are even worse piece junkies than I am and my game pieces pretty much always sell.
As for the extra game boards, instruction books, cardboard accessories and dice, you can put them on eBay as well. Some guys out there have a lot of playing pieces but perhaps missed out on whatever game you are offering, or just don’t want to go out and buy a new one. I found the best way to ship these, especially with the game board, is to use a USPS Large Game Board Flat Rate Box. You can put all the game accessories in one of these along with some packing material to fill in the extra space and the USPS will ship it anywhere as long as it doesn’t weigh over 70 pounds. For shipping within the US, I think it costs $16.95. You should check usps.com to be sure. I don’t know about international shipping because I only ship within the US.
The MOST important part is to price these items to sell. Start low and take the shipping cost into account. If you start out with too high a price, you won’t get any bids and will be stuck with them. Even if your starting price isn’t too high, remember they will have to also pay shipping. So start low. You are probably not going to get what  you paid. The object here is to at least make a little money back on your investment and provide some gaming materials to someone that can use them. Even if you just get the lowest bid, at least you get that amount for yourself and you get rid of the excess pieces.
Another option is to offer free shipping which can draw more looks at your items, but then you have to either start your bidding price to include the shipping costs or take a loss with the shipping charges.
Good luck.

@Entek:

AFAIK in league you can’t add any units to China or to France with a bid, and you can only add units to territories or Sea Zones that already have units.

The Chinese bid is perfectly legal in the Global `40 league (unless it just changed).  Strictly speaking it is also legal to bid Chinese units which they cannot buy in the normal course of a game, but that probably will be changed if it hasn’t already.  There has been plenty of discussion on that topic.

Placing a French bid in Paris should also be perfectly legal.  I don’t think doing so would be that helpful since at best maybe you’ve delayed the German attack on S. France or Normandy by one turn, which i don’t see as having a lot of strategic impact on German play.

In the games a played it seemed that Japan could help the European Axis more by getting in positon to have enough victory cities on their side of the map than really pushing towards Russia.  If Japan pushes to Russia then USA is free to keep spending in Europe.  Maybe I will give this a try though with the newer edition of rules.

USA only makes 17 on the pacific map alone.

I think Japan can take it.

i would also rather fight on his turf where i get income generating for as long as possible. once you have to back down that’s when you are basically saying, “I lose moscow sooner or later.”

Surrender isnt part of our vocabulary,  correct me if I’m wrong in alpha2 when London falls that brings the US into the war,      so why not fight    or just give it away  I game for the battles (Kursk) = big tank battles between Germany and Russia or (truk Lagoon) big naval battles between Japan and USA  or the Battle of Britain/Sealion.    and I like to win , to add or change the rules can be fun but this game was not designed to be redesigned by all of us, It’s a step up from the Anniversary edition.  If because the Axis won the last 4 games means the Allies cant win , then I think you may be missing some thing but I dont think so from what I can tell the people on the forum are skilled, experienced players.    There are a bunch of people who think the game is unbalanced with the Allies being the one with the upper hand. This subject might get ya to think that it is balanced the other way.  In 25+ yrs I’ve seen where one side will get a bunch of wins only to be offset by the other,  overall I would say that the score is about 50/50  we play on average 2 games a weekend.    How did Hitler say it……fight to the last man  I think Stalin said it to… Keep gaming and post the results.

@Pelanderfunk:

I like the early attacks against the US, but it looks like Russia was becoming a problem.

The attacks against America were half baked - I was still at the drawing board but jumped in anyway.

A bigger problem than Russia is UK in Africa, the Mediterranean, and South East Europe.  If Italy were an asset to Europe and not a liability, I think I could deal with the Russians.  In fact, if I could lock UK out of the Med (without extra effort from Japan or Germany) I would combine the Japanese North American campaign with Sea Lion and be sitting pretty.

What to do about that pesky Med…