Axis & Allies Anniversary upgraded version

My son keeps buying Japanese Aircraft Carriers (why am I giving him such a huge handicap, again?) so I need more flight decks. But 7 (yes, 7!) Shinanos is more than anyone can bear. Thus, the addiction continues with a new Akagi, now with quasi historical markings that differentiate it somewhat from the Shinano deck:

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Updated pdf with everything: Carrier_Decals_lilly_vodot_v6.pdf

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Thank you for sending the map to my printer. I have been testing scenarios out with my A&A using my 1942 second edition. I just have been using sticky note paper to mark my Italian territories. I used the game pieces from my anniversary addition for the Italian pieces. I also added have tracks: cost is IPC 5. Attack 2, defend 2 as tanks cost 6 IPC in this version. Its nice to spend 5 IPC on an actual unit other than an AA gun. No artillery bonus on half track in this version
I also added the recruitment center from zombies.
Please see the chart below
MOBILIZATION ZONE
UNIT STATS COST MOVE ATTACK DEFENSE
LAND UNITS
INFANTRY 3 1 1 2
ARTILLERY 4 1 2 2
HALF TRACK 5 2 2 2
TANK 6 2 3 3
ANTIAIRCRAFT ARTILLERY 5 1 0 1
RECRUITMENT CENTER 10 0 0 0
INDUSTRIAL COMPLEX 15 0 0 0

@CWO:

@Drfrozenfire:

I’m going to probably print a large transparency map based on the board I’ve been designing based on satellite imagery that is in some serious high definition.

If you’ll be using satellite imagery as the basis for your map, will you be keeping the real-world proportions of the land masses and oceans?  The Global 1940 game map, for practical game play purposes, distorts both the size and the shape of various geographic areas.

No, I’ve taken the satellite images and enlarged certain areas so that there is room in places like Europe for the large scale of battle that often takes place there. When I’m done with the map file, I’ll post it here if you’re interested

I’m not aware of such a blank outline map existing.  Your best option might be to cover the game map with several taped-together sheets of clear acetate (the kind used for purposes like overheard projection) and trace the borders with a felt pen to produce a blank outline.  You’d then have various options for transfering this outline to the wood surface.  A low-tech method would be to cover the wood surface with sheets of carbon paper (if you can still find any, since it’s gone out of style), place your acetate outline over the carbon paper, then trace over the borders with a hard pencil.  Alternately, you could scan or digitally photograph your acetate outline and use that as the printing file you mentioned.

@dazzaman77
Can you email me at trisdin@younggrasshopper.org

i like it

Sorry for the late reply, been busy again and havent had time to meet up w friends and play.  I used acrylics to paint the pieces, easy stuff.to use and cheap.too, Michael’s is a good place.to buy some. I used a spray on glossy finish om the pieces themselves. The hardest units to paint was the infantry, so many details on them, straps, satchels bags, canteens boots and rifles, that takes lots of.time. the easiest units was the ships, just paint all grey, let them.dry then fill in the details like the deck and a roundel.

@Gargantua:

Has anyone thought making the board from Acrylic??

Or is it too prone to breakage?

I had considered etching the country and seazone borders into the bottom of the acrylic topper on our topograhical board.  Would have been very cool, but too difficult at the time (skill level required was beyond me at the time).

I don’t think it would have been particularly prone to breakage.  Acrylic sheets are pretty resiliant.  SCRATCHING on the other hand would be a major issue to deal with.