Tjoek's 1940 Global Map file and setup charts (Updated May 30th 2018)

Thank you for sending the map to my printer. I have been testing scenarios out with my A&A using my 1942 second edition. I just have been using sticky note paper to mark my Italian territories. I used the game pieces from my anniversary addition for the Italian pieces. I also added have tracks: cost is IPC 5. Attack 2, defend 2 as tanks cost 6 IPC in this version. Its nice to spend 5 IPC on an actual unit other than an AA gun. No artillery bonus on half track in this version
I also added the recruitment center from zombies.
Please see the chart below
MOBILIZATION ZONE
UNIT STATS COST MOVE ATTACK DEFENSE
LAND UNITS
INFANTRY 3 1 1 2
ARTILLERY 4 1 2 2
HALF TRACK 5 2 2 2
TANK 6 2 3 3
ANTIAIRCRAFT ARTILLERY 5 1 0 1
RECRUITMENT CENTER 10 0 0 0
INDUSTRIAL COMPLEX 15 0 0 0

AIR UNITS FIGHTER 10 4 3 4 BOMBER 12 6 4 1 SEA UNITS SUBMARINE 6 2 2 1 TRANSPORT 7 2 0 0 DESTROYER 8 2 2 2 CRUISER 12 2 3 3 AIRCRAFT CARRIER 14 2 1 2 BATTLESHIP 20 2 4 4

FOR CLASSIC THIRD EDITION RULES
A&A Classic 3rd Edition v3.5.pdf

CLASSIC THIRD EDITION RULES.jpg

IF you can do better, you are free. I use paint. Here is the PC original
axis_allies_PC.jpg

@SEP try this one he has just started doing 3d printed. http://iwillnevergrowup.com/shop/index.php?route=product%2Fcategory&path=62_93

I have been playing around with different configurations for a custom table and wanted to note some things I’ve landed on that I really like. A main one thing is having the map mounted so that it can slide around as needed on top of a bigger playing area. My table is 65” x 95” in total with a 5.5” arm rest around the outside and the middle is a recessed neoprene surface. I have the OOB Global map mounted on 1/2” rigid foam with a 1/2” aluminum frame around it. This allows the map to slide up close to whoever’s turn it is, but then be in the middle so both players can roll dice In front of them without disturbing the map and in easy view of the other player. (Plus we like lots of room to roll the bones). This ability to adjust the surface along with a standing height, makes it comfortable for long uses because you can move around more and don’t feel as tied down.
Things I’ve learned and changed from original design - I originally used too big of a frame for the map and mounted it on too high of a foam block (you can see these pictures at the bottom) - it made it hard to see the other player’s dice and the big frame took up too much real estate. My global map is mounted on much thinner foam (the framing is bad, you can see if you look closely) but I also used much thinner aluminum angle for the frame. This gives just enough grip when needing to move the map around (I use furniture slides on the bottom, which glide very nicely on the neoprene) but doesn’t make the whole thing too bulky. Having it an inch or so off the surface keeps the dice off, but isn’t so heigh that you can’t see the other player’s dice rolls. When playing other versions (such as Zombies) the board is much smaller, but it can easily swap in and out on the same table since it can move around where ever it is needed or be pushed aside.
I originally made it normal table height, but found long reaches while sitting were harder and it just felt cramped. Standing height with a bar stool is a great way to have the best of both worlds.
The 5.5” rim around the table itself gives you a nice arm rest that doesn’t interfere with the gaming surface. I’m playing with how to best add some cushion to this part - open to suggestions. Sometimes I just lay a piece of leftover neoprene on it.
Dice bounce nice on the neoprene and stay off the floor. It also feels nice and has enough give to allow things to slide but be picked up easily. Wouldn’t definitely go with neoprene again as a surface covering.
I made the drawers open to the inside of the table so you can stay hunched over the action while accessing and stowing stuff away. 50/50 on whether I would keep this if I were to do it again. If I were doing it again, I might try to build customer drawers form scratch using actual drawer glides, but that was beyond my ability when I first did this, so I just used clear plexiglass boxes with aluminum pulls mounted on them. It’s nice having them clear, and I was happy with how the pulls came out, but without glides they can be a little fussy sliding in and out of their slots.
I originally designed the table so that I could put a cover surface back on top when not in use, but find I don’t really ever do that, so if I were to do it again, I might not mess with that part (I never even finished staining those as you can see in the pictures).
CF362D52-269F-4480-8CBB-08139099138F.jpeg A9E12EA1-66EB-4671-86AC-68C62FD30AD5.jpeg 858DE1F2-030A-4D5A-93E4-70A7D1180ADB.jpeg 8F513EE0-DA37-4BA9-880E-4D5EF7BF431F.jpeg F0188165-757B-4CC1-BF67-5045832283C9.jpeg 2E3CD627-0D31-4121-ACF8-682F9F58A40B.jpeg

Thnx IL!

This looks like the 1942 board judging from the border of the territories. Although the sea has been painted differently and the map shows anniversary.

Unfortunately the resolution is a bit small for a nice large print.

I think that the map most definitely achieves your criteria’s.    I am not such a fan of the colors but they fit with what you want, and are simply a knee-jerk omg reaction that will dissipate.  I like the de-cluttering of it thou, and it is definitely easy to see who starts where this way.

When you get a final version up I’d be tempted to print it out as a replacement board myself specially if you put up the PSD and allow us to make our own modifications if needed… Love modifying my boards!

@Tall:

Lucas,

––My friend,…I DO NOT want to hear from you for a month! Please go and take care of your important personal business. I wish you and your soon-to-be wife THE BEST!
––We’ll talk about paint jobs in a month (or so).

Here’s my best wishes to your future happiness.

“Tall Paul”

Haha… I will do my best on that front. Thanks again for the well wishes. I will keep the German aircraft safe at home for the time being.

Thanks for the pics, looks great boss, rakes are a nice touch.