I have been playing around with different configurations for a custom table and wanted to note some things I’ve landed on that I really like. A main one thing is having the map mounted so that it can slide around as needed on top of a bigger playing area. My table is 65” x 95” in total with a 5.5” arm rest around the outside and the middle is a recessed neoprene surface. I have the OOB Global map mounted on 1/2” rigid foam with a 1/2” aluminum frame around it. This allows the map to slide up close to whoever’s turn it is, but then be in the middle so both players can roll dice In front of them without disturbing the map and in easy view of the other player. (Plus we like lots of room to roll the bones). This ability to adjust the surface along with a standing height, makes it comfortable for long uses because you can move around more and don’t feel as tied down.
Things I’ve learned and changed from original design - I originally used too big of a frame for the map and mounted it on too high of a foam block (you can see these pictures at the bottom) - it made it hard to see the other player’s dice and the big frame took up too much real estate. My global map is mounted on much thinner foam (the framing is bad, you can see if you look closely) but I also used much thinner aluminum angle for the frame. This gives just enough grip when needing to move the map around (I use furniture slides on the bottom, which glide very nicely on the neoprene) but doesn’t make the whole thing too bulky. Having it an inch or so off the surface keeps the dice off, but isn’t so heigh that you can’t see the other player’s dice rolls. When playing other versions (such as Zombies) the board is much smaller, but it can easily swap in and out on the same table since it can move around where ever it is needed or be pushed aside.
I originally made it normal table height, but found long reaches while sitting were harder and it just felt cramped. Standing height with a bar stool is a great way to have the best of both worlds.
The 5.5” rim around the table itself gives you a nice arm rest that doesn’t interfere with the gaming surface. I’m playing with how to best add some cushion to this part - open to suggestions. Sometimes I just lay a piece of leftover neoprene on it.
Dice bounce nice on the neoprene and stay off the floor. It also feels nice and has enough give to allow things to slide but be picked up easily. Wouldn’t definitely go with neoprene again as a surface covering.
I made the drawers open to the inside of the table so you can stay hunched over the action while accessing and stowing stuff away. 50/50 on whether I would keep this if I were to do it again. If I were doing it again, I might try to build customer drawers form scratch using actual drawer glides, but that was beyond my ability when I first did this, so I just used clear plexiglass boxes with aluminum pulls mounted on them. It’s nice having them clear, and I was happy with how the pulls came out, but without glides they can be a little fussy sliding in and out of their slots.
I originally designed the table so that I could put a cover surface back on top when not in use, but find I don’t really ever do that, so if I were to do it again, I might not mess with that part (I never even finished staining those as you can see in the pictures).
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Tjoek's 1940 Global Map file and setup charts (Updated May 30th 2018)
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Updated first post for my first release of the map. Let me know what you think and don’t forget to send me pics of your printed copy of this map!
Let me know your specific wishes/change request and I might be able to work on them for a small fee.
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awesome!
would you mind also sharing the PSD(?) file? or indicate where I can find one?
I’d like to work on a global 42 map version but based on the AAG40 map…
thanks! -
awesome!
Thanks mate!
would you mind also sharing the PSD(?) file? or indicate where I can find one?
I’d like to work on a global 42 map version but based on the AAG40 map…Simply load my png file in Photoshop and you’re good to go. The quality doesn’t get better as the original file was jpeg to begin with.
In case you’re looking for a layered PSD document, that doesn’t exist. The original file was a scan of the board, not a proper design document with layers for borders, country colors, names etc.
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Good day, I want to know on what scale it is better to print this map (1m 30cm/ 60cm)?
Or is there a much better scale? -
thanks for the reply. did you layer it?
:mrgreen: -
I have been keeping a attentive eye on this project. After taking a good look at the map, I wanted to provide some feedback The quality of your work is exceedingly impressive! I am currently shopping around for a printer to bring this to reality. Thanks for all the countless hours you spent on this project and for supporting this community in such a tangible way.
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Good day, I want to know on what scale it is better to print this map (1m 30cm/ 60cm)?
Or is there a much better scale?The original Global 1940 map is around 177cm by 81cm, so I would definitely don’t go below that.
However I do recommend a slightly larger print out at 219cm by 100cm. This really helps with unit placement as every territory is just a bit larger.
But after all it’s up to the size of your table what will fit.
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thanks for the reply. did you layer it?
:mrgreen:Short answer is no. I did make my changes in layers, but most where merged along the way to keep the total file size manageable (just under 1GB)
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The quality of your work is exceedingly impressive!
Thanks!
I am currently shopping around for a printer to bring this to reality. Thanks for all the countless hours you spent on this project and for supporting this community in such a tangible way.
Please share your pictures in this thread when you’ve found a suitable printer, I would love to see this file coming to live on other tables and gaming groups.
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I have been keeping a attentive eye on this project. After taking a good look at the map, I wanted to provide some feedback The quality of your work is exceedingly impressive! I am currently shopping around for a printer to bring this to reality. Thanks for all the countless hours you spent on this project and for supporting this community in such a tangible way.
Thumbs up.
Plus 1 to you, Tjoek. -
Our group and other local players in the Netherlands have printed over 8 maps now and we all love it!
And the game plays really well on a map 219cm by 100cm large. So much more room to navigate your units around. It’s a real difference that has more impact in how your play and perceive the game that I expected. I will make some pictures of it next time we play the game. I just forgot to do it. Might be a while due to the holidays.
@Macaoidh: just curious, did you find a print shop?
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Dutch Lancaster recently uploaded a video on youtube of the G40 event we recently had in Amsterdam (the Netherlands).
There were 2 printed versions of this map present (the right table is the scaled version of 100x219 cm)
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Thanks for sharing Quirky Turtle!
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@Quirky-Turtle: Great video! The printed map looks fantastic. I’m curious though- what do the Litko Flaming Wreckage and Splash Markers indicate on the printed map, and the large green chess pawn looking things on the oob board represent?
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@DMcLaren: Haha good spot
In my games I use the Medium Flaming Wreckage markers from Litko as indicators for Combat’s and territories that change hand. This makes it easier to see in one overview if you’ve rolled all battles and handled all IPC changes. I believe the green pawns on the other map are used in a similar way.
In order to not forget to move certain units in the non-combat movement phase I use the Litko yellow alert tokens.
I use the micro flaming wreckage markers for damaged capital chips.Finally the splash markers are used to mark convoy disruptions. We’ve found that typically when moving into a SZ during your own turn you tend to remember there is a convoy disruption but by the time the next player comes around you forget, so this way we can quickly scan the board at the end of each round and see if we’ve overlooked anything.
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@DMcLaren: in my opinion it helps game play while at the same time looking really nice on the table!
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@Tjoek this is incredible. Printing this out as I type. Now to find a sheet of 36x78in plexiglass…
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@vodot said in Tjoek's 1940 Global Map file (Updated May 30th 2018):
@Tjoek this is incredible. Printing this out as I type. Now to find a sheet of 36x78in plexiglass…
Thnx @vodot! Please share a picture of your map when it’s printed, I would love to see your result!
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@vodot said in Tjoek's 1940 Global Map file (Updated May 30th 2018):
@Tjoek this is incredible. Printing this out as I type. Now to find a sheet of 36x78in plexiglass…
In case this info helps, here’s how I obtained the 36" x 96" sheet of plastic that my customized table (which has an extended-width version of the Global 1940 map board) needed. I found a local plastics company whose merchandise lines were described on their website, and I determined that the best option was a material called non-glare Acrylite P-99; the company had various sizes in stock, and one of them was originally sized by the manufacturer at 48" x 96" x 1/16" thickness. The 96" length was already correct, so all the plastics company had to do for me was to cut the sheet to the correct width. They then shipped it to me by delivery truck, rolled up into a tube about two feet in diameter with a sheet of cardboard wrapped around it to protect it. They even included the slice they had removed. They only charged me ten bucks for the custom cutting, and they did a nice job; the sheet went straight onto the table without needing any work on my part, other than my peeling away the manufacturer’s thin temporary film which protects the acrylic from scratching during storage and shipment.
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