I have been playing around with different configurations for a custom table and wanted to note some things I’ve landed on that I really like. A main one thing is having the map mounted so that it can slide around as needed on top of a bigger playing area. My table is 65” x 95” in total with a 5.5” arm rest around the outside and the middle is a recessed neoprene surface. I have the OOB Global map mounted on 1/2” rigid foam with a 1/2” aluminum frame around it. This allows the map to slide up close to whoever’s turn it is, but then be in the middle so both players can roll dice In front of them without disturbing the map and in easy view of the other player. (Plus we like lots of room to roll the bones). This ability to adjust the surface along with a standing height, makes it comfortable for long uses because you can move around more and don’t feel as tied down.
Things I’ve learned and changed from original design - I originally used too big of a frame for the map and mounted it on too high of a foam block (you can see these pictures at the bottom) - it made it hard to see the other player’s dice and the big frame took up too much real estate. My global map is mounted on much thinner foam (the framing is bad, you can see if you look closely) but I also used much thinner aluminum angle for the frame. This gives just enough grip when needing to move the map around (I use furniture slides on the bottom, which glide very nicely on the neoprene) but doesn’t make the whole thing too bulky. Having it an inch or so off the surface keeps the dice off, but isn’t so heigh that you can’t see the other player’s dice rolls. When playing other versions (such as Zombies) the board is much smaller, but it can easily swap in and out on the same table since it can move around where ever it is needed or be pushed aside.
I originally made it normal table height, but found long reaches while sitting were harder and it just felt cramped. Standing height with a bar stool is a great way to have the best of both worlds.
The 5.5” rim around the table itself gives you a nice arm rest that doesn’t interfere with the gaming surface. I’m playing with how to best add some cushion to this part - open to suggestions. Sometimes I just lay a piece of leftover neoprene on it.
Dice bounce nice on the neoprene and stay off the floor. It also feels nice and has enough give to allow things to slide but be picked up easily. Wouldn’t definitely go with neoprene again as a surface covering.
I made the drawers open to the inside of the table so you can stay hunched over the action while accessing and stowing stuff away. 50/50 on whether I would keep this if I were to do it again. If I were doing it again, I might try to build customer drawers form scratch using actual drawer glides, but that was beyond my ability when I first did this, so I just used clear plexiglass boxes with aluminum pulls mounted on them. It’s nice having them clear, and I was happy with how the pulls came out, but without glides they can be a little fussy sliding in and out of their slots.
I originally designed the table so that I could put a cover surface back on top when not in use, but find I don’t really ever do that, so if I were to do it again, I might not mess with that part (I never even finished staining those as you can see in the pictures).
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Sired's Map project - Updated- 4/16 - files available see first post
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let’s not let this get buried.
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@Young:
let’s not let this get buried.
Thanks! I had family in town till last night, so my free time was close to nil.
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Im not 100% sold on this yet, its so different lol. LMK what you guys think, good and the bad, im going to go ahead and do all the pacific islands next. As I get farther, may have other ideas.
As I mentioned, I wanted something to make the capital stand out more, again feedback is welcomed, I may change it to a flag within a circle, gotta try it out. I messed with the water color a tad to go with the terrain, I imagine, the water will shift colors through the game here and there to better suit the adjacent terrain colors.
I couldn’t find the exact font for the IPC value, but its good enough I think.
As for the terrain borders, I went with a simple burn (may lighten it), not sure if it will stay like that, gotta get farther along to see how it works elsewhere, better then default though I think, hard to see there is even a border above Victoria.
I didn’t need to change the county outline at all, they original did a good job.
Sorry it took so long for an update, well get them pumped out a little faster :)

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The ocean is so rich and saturated. I do kinda like it. Have you experimented with blending ocean colors based on latitude? Maybe not the overall open-ocean color, but definitely the colors surrounding continents and islands. Such that the equatorial/tropical islands have that electric blue-turquoise softening and the look gets colder or deeper blue as you move to more northern and southern latitudes? Not sure exactly how to describe what I am thinking.
The capital theme looks great! Really fits the style of the board. I am interested to see the other ones. You don’t think the transparency will be lost in printing do you? Or would you think it depends more on the quality of the print job?
Have you tried making the land borders similar thickness or style to the sea zone borders? I am thinking it may make the transition between sea to land more seamless and the land border more visible. I have no idea if that would actually make it better or not.
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The ocean is so rich and saturated. I do kinda like it. Have you experimented with blending ocean colors based on latitude? Maybe not the overall open-ocean color, but definitely the colors surrounding continents and islands. Such that the equatorial/tropical islands have that electric blue-turquoise softening and the look gets colder or deeper blue as you move to more northern and southern latitudes? Not sure exactly how to describe what I am thinking.
The capital theme looks great! Really fits the style of the board. I am interested to see the other ones. You don’t think the transparency will be lost in printing do you? Or would you think it depends more on the quality of the print job?
Have you tried making the land borders similar thickness or style to the sea zone borders? I am thinking it may make the transition between sea to land more seamless and the land border more visible. I have no idea if that would actually make it better or not.
Once all the countries are done, ill be going over the water, blending the color variants, at that time, ill do more with warm/cold color transitions. Ya, the terrain borders are not done, im not sure the burn is going to work or not with other colors, gotta wait and see, but I agree, the thickness should be the same as the SZ.
Ive never printed a map, so if transparency is an issue, I hope someone will let us know.
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I like the ocean graphics, I like the land graphics I don’t like the huge roundel for the capitals. It’s too big for my liking. YG 1940 map at later versions had the capitals stand out by increasing the size of the rounder just by a bit like double.
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I love the shallow illuminated shores surrounding land masses, however, I’m not sure how I feel about the double lined SZ borders, and I think the large capital or VC icons are unnecessary given the very small role VCs have in the game. The colors look fantastic.
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I have to say, that I really like the capital roundels… :-D
The land colors are also really nice. So much better than the OOB map. I’m looking forward to see what you’ve made out of the other parts of the world.
The water colors are hard to judge from the small patch but look really promising.
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@Young:
let’s not let this get buried.
Well that’s a problem with the Customizations Forum… there are so many pinned subjects on the first page that there’s only 5 spots for ‘new’ posts on the first page at all. I don’t think any other forum has so many pinned subjects… maybe there should be a “best of Customizations” forum to put all those pinned ones so a new post doesn’t get “buried” after only 4 or 5 new posts elsewhere?
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Thanks for the feedback, ill have more options on the next pics for borders and such. Ill have more options for the Capitals as well, what I need to do is make a separate image to show how they will all look with one look or another, what may look great on one thing, not so much on another at times.
Maybe just the star? After the islands are done, probably Friday, ill move onto US. Im actually looking forward to painting Africa for some reason.
This weekend though ill post some pics of options, and a few progress pics as well.
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This is incredible. I love the new approach to making capital territories stand out more.
Have you given any thought to adding new territories? I really do like the thought to add the Azores and Canaries, but I’d love to see other additions as well. Perhaps dividing Indochina into Cochinchina and Tonkin? Also dividing Thailand into Isan and Isthmus of Kra?
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This is incredible. I love the new approach to making capital territories stand out more.
Have you given any thought to adding new territories? I really do like the thought to add the Azores and Canaries, but I’d love to see other additions as well. Perhaps dividing Indochina into Cochinchina and Tonkin? Also dividing Thailand into Isan and Isthmus of Kra?
Thanks for the comment!
In this version, im sticking to OOB. I am interested however in a modded version for those interested. I don’t want one for myself, but with my file, it will be easy to edit. Once this is done, ill start a new thread, for a modded version. In addition, to this version, I have plans for 3 paint schemes.
As for the map progress, the islands are done, sorry for the lack of pics. Ive been trying to get the card deck done, which is finally is, and will be available tomorrow. Also, been working on getting the facilities tooled…which is underway. (the cad is underway, not the tooling yet)
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Very nice so far - I’m keeping a close eye on this project!
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Thanks DK!
Sorry the updates have been scarce, im having issues with the file being so big. Every so often, photoshop will freeze up, and the file being so large, it needs save as a large doc in photoshop (not the standard .psd) which takes like 10 min…. so saving often takes forever, and not saving is risky.
I have broken down the project into separate mini projects, but then I have other issues lol. Needless to say, project is not as easy as it should be.
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Sired, you’re using Photoshop, I take it?
Is there any mapping tutorial you found useful, or was it all just trial and error?
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Sired, you’re using Photoshop, I take it?
Is there any mapping tutorial you found useful, or was it all just trial and error?
Ya, photoshop…. I have 20 years with photoshop, 8 years of 3d game design, ive painted many 3d game terrains. It is different painting in a 3d program vs photoshop, but I was able to kinda set up painting in photoshop to mimic a 3d application. I have many plugins that are for 3d model texturing, which are helping out in this project as well.
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That’s awesome! I really look forward to seeing the result!
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going to do a test print, then do a quick setup, a side by side difference of Europe. Europe is still unpainted, but I want to make sure no more edits are needed before. Also, ill be able to see borders better, make sure I didn’t miss or goof up anything.
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Save it in such a way that you can make custom maps from the base map.
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Finally got around to taping it together. Obviously I still need to paint terrain, but needed to make sure the new size worked well, which I think it does. I setup the units the same on both sides, same as in the same location in a country as well. There was no need for a full setup to see its way better in proportion.
I printed a few in color, just for fun.
Also with a full print, I can now sit with the game board and really look for errors in borders and such, will be way easier the looking on a screen, also I can just draw all over this where needed for notes.
Also, it looks like 2 images, but the paper map is actually over the OOB map, side by side. So to compare is “real time” I guess you can say.






