Sired's Map project - Updated- 4/16 - files available see first post

@gen-manstein very Awesome!!

I have been playing around with different configurations for a custom table and wanted to note some things I’ve landed on that I really like. A main one thing is having the map mounted so that it can slide around as needed on top of a bigger playing area. My table is 65” x 95” in total with a 5.5” arm rest around the outside and the middle is a recessed neoprene surface. I have the OOB Global map mounted on 1/2” rigid foam with a 1/2” aluminum frame around it. This allows the map to slide up close to whoever’s turn it is, but then be in the middle so both players can roll dice In front of them without disturbing the map and in easy view of the other player. (Plus we like lots of room to roll the bones). This ability to adjust the surface along with a standing height, makes it comfortable for long uses because you can move around more and don’t feel as tied down.
Things I’ve learned and changed from original design - I originally used too big of a frame for the map and mounted it on too high of a foam block (you can see these pictures at the bottom) - it made it hard to see the other player’s dice and the big frame took up too much real estate. My global map is mounted on much thinner foam (the framing is bad, you can see if you look closely) but I also used much thinner aluminum angle for the frame. This gives just enough grip when needing to move the map around (I use furniture slides on the bottom, which glide very nicely on the neoprene) but doesn’t make the whole thing too bulky. Having it an inch or so off the surface keeps the dice off, but isn’t so heigh that you can’t see the other player’s dice rolls. When playing other versions (such as Zombies) the board is much smaller, but it can easily swap in and out on the same table since it can move around where ever it is needed or be pushed aside.
I originally made it normal table height, but found long reaches while sitting were harder and it just felt cramped. Standing height with a bar stool is a great way to have the best of both worlds.
The 5.5” rim around the table itself gives you a nice arm rest that doesn’t interfere with the gaming surface. I’m playing with how to best add some cushion to this part - open to suggestions. Sometimes I just lay a piece of leftover neoprene on it.
Dice bounce nice on the neoprene and stay off the floor. It also feels nice and has enough give to allow things to slide but be picked up easily. Wouldn’t definitely go with neoprene again as a surface covering.
I made the drawers open to the inside of the table so you can stay hunched over the action while accessing and stowing stuff away. 50/50 on whether I would keep this if I were to do it again. If I were doing it again, I might try to build customer drawers form scratch using actual drawer glides, but that was beyond my ability when I first did this, so I just used clear plexiglass boxes with aluminum pulls mounted on them. It’s nice having them clear, and I was happy with how the pulls came out, but without glides they can be a little fussy sliding in and out of their slots.
I originally designed the table so that I could put a cover surface back on top when not in use, but find I don’t really ever do that, so if I were to do it again, I might not mess with that part (I never even finished staining those as you can see in the pictures).
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@macdown343
Why don’t you use the existing map files or do you want to customrise territory’s ?

@CWO-Marc said in Physically modifying 1942 2nd edition map.:

My pleasure. By the way, I wrote “acrylic” above but I’ve double-checked and the correct term is actually acetate sheets, a.k.a. projector transparencies; see: https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Transparency_(projection).

Thanks for letting me know. They’d probably give me a weird look if I asked for acrylic. 😆😆

I was able to get the names font, but the number font is a licensed font, so I bought that. I have the water layer and the sea zone layer in. Ive decided to redo the entire map from scratch though, retaining the gameplay, same zones etc. My French units are in the decal phase, so after I post them, ill start my map thread. Again, if its edits you like, let me know.

one additional comment:

I recommend to follow the map1942.2-thread in the AA1942 section, the latest version of the map is linked there.

@jluna1273:

Toblerone77,

Question for you: how did you get the “CUSTOMIZER” tab on your profile?

Marc has your answer pretty much there. The link kind of shows why, what, when ,where and who made this happen.

There are people here a lot better than me on a lot of subjects involving customization and HRs/game ideas, and I was surprised I even received it.

“Customizer” covers a lot and I’m sure in time others will be awarded this badge. For myself I nominated a few who really showed they were doing a lot for the game. Most notably “Most Holy” and “alllworkandnoclay” they both paint and Most Holy is the host of Dicestruction podcast. This to my knowledge is the only podcast which features Axis & Allies exclusively. These guys were just a couple whom I nominated. I asked a few people to move allworkandnoclay’s thread to customizations to help all those who paint and customize their units as a tool.

The credit for much of this goes to YoungGrasshopper who suggested the badge for Der Kuenstler initially, whom I also nominated for his war room and his HR work.

@sgtwiltan:

Yes. There are so many. Trying to get one thing done at a time. I sent back some pieces and have started on a big batch of artillery which he loves. I’m amazed at his patience. Still have a lot of pieces he sent me and was able to find and keep them in a box so I know which pieces are his that I need to work on. They had been lost in multiple boxes from when I moved 4 years ago. I’ve also redone literally hundreds of PZIIIs including some all of the painted ones. One of these days…… I’ll get them done.

That is cool! I’m sure he doesn’t mind, because the end result is fantastic. :-)