Sired's Map project - Updated- 4/16 - files available see first post

@barnee
I don’t understand what you mine

@monroe Actually I hear that a whole turn equates to 6 months for A&A…

And here’s my new 1942 map

my1942custommap1.jpg
my1942custommap2.jpg

If you are really looking for a good finish on all your HBG pieces, you could buy a couple small cans of differing lacquers and test each one. $20 should get almost 3 cans worth. It may be a waste to some degree, but at least you can know for sure which one works best.

I have a flat Testors lacquer/sealant spray that I used on Tall Paul’s finished pieces. Granted, these were painted first, so the effect may be thrown off. However, I will say that I did not observe any level of gloss on the HBG or OOB pieces after I applied it. It was quite flat as advertised. FWIW.

Nice work - Dare I ask how many hours you put into it? For interest’s sake.

Counting TUV, expected losses after a variety of round 1 openers, KJF and KGF both need some viability the additional russian units are necessary for an even remote possibility of KJF, assuming a 6-9 bid for the allies.

A heavily stacked axis map needed more to it going on many fronts. Kept the fun and minus the complete devastation. UK can sink Japan fleet by east indies with a sub bid and an infantry on egypt, the KJF becomes viable, at the same time, japan quickly catches up in income and can knock out india if it gets no support.

Lots of Russian players like to do ukraine, the added artillery smooths it out, Germany has plenty to counter attack no problem, nothing drastic. Taking london with tech roll LRA on round 1 non sense is out of the picture, tech players rejoice, as if LRA is germany is not devastating enough, plus even a carrier in baltic seazone and air on france… forces a huge turtle buy from uk, mitigating some of that still makes the baltic fleet thing strong just not so overwhelming. Basically all the germany strategies need some kind of drawback or investment. Like you should have to work for Africa if you want it instead of just getting it. The high risk high reward battles still there, because it comes under the assumption of an allies bid, even if you play without one there is still something for the allies to look forward to.

One of the key reasons this map is seldom played is because the allies really have nothing to look forward to for the first 3 rounds. So this just addresses that issue, it is still an axis favored map, the allies still have to make something happen, it is just they now have the tools to try to do something.

The germany destroyer may get removed, I added it to make germany 1 a bit more dynamic instead of linear. Players would also send 2 subs to sink usa transports, baltic subs to sink uk bship, go for egypt or protect bship at gibraltar, it is all the same stuff, now you can yolo attack usa and have a pretty even fight, block usa from landing africa, 2 sub sink uk dd trans and 1 dd to hit the cruiser or use dd to sink bship sub from russia, there is more decision making.

TL:DR More decision making for the axis instead of “this is the best option so I got to do this or I can risk this purchase if it does not work out oh well there will be no punishment anyway.”

IL,

––I’ve come to prefer the new HBG markers for some of the same reasons you’ve just mentioned: They’re thicker, thus easier to pick-up and they are have much improved graphics and colors over the OOB markers. See below: OOB on left,….HBG on right.
----For most ot the “standard” territory markers, I still prefer having the bases of my Infantry units painted with their national insignia, thus making it unecessary to have to use “territory markers” at all.

“Tall Paul”

Markerthickness.jpg
Infantry-USA_Europe01.jpg

Thanks LHoffman,

Your appreciation is my inspiration… because I refuse to use a sheet of glass, my research has lead me to a material called styrene (google it) which is a type of plastic sheet that can be directly printed on. All indications point to this method being the last alternative to glass and although it cost around $240, it looks to be my best option. Even after flushing $300 so far in a crappy print, and installation complications, I’m happy with this new direction if it turns out the way I’ve been told it will. Basically it’s flexible plastic, so it should lie flat without air pockets getting trapped, and because it doesn’t get laminated, the colors should be slightly brighter. If it is sensitive to scratching than there is a clear film sheet by 3M I can look into, that’s where I’m at right now.