Sired's Map project - Updated- 4/16 - files available see first post

Asking the community here which map version would be preferred from below, or there a combination not represented? The game is European theatre, but there is an Asian/Pacific half as well. Game will be offered through HBG.

Historical flags only on capitals or important cities. Territories outside of homeland use lighter shade of colour.
59ba889b-c1fa-496f-8e4c-a86a8c5b1bc4-image.png

Historical flags on capitals and small flags on territories to denote ownership along with colour. Territories outside of the homeland will use local flag.
4efd671c-9f95-454f-813a-ea2451814a57-image.png

Axis & Allies roundels used instead of historical flags. Territories outside of homeland still use local flags.
cfd708c4-c553-41be-9f7a-3d771ba2a601-image.png

Axis & Allies flags used for all spaces. Outside homeland is a lighter shade.
235eb1f3-3d3e-4a50-bde7-8d8a9c46bc50-image.png

I have been playing around with different configurations for a custom table and wanted to note some things I’ve landed on that I really like. A main one thing is having the map mounted so that it can slide around as needed on top of a bigger playing area. My table is 65” x 95” in total with a 5.5” arm rest around the outside and the middle is a recessed neoprene surface. I have the OOB Global map mounted on 1/2” rigid foam with a 1/2” aluminum frame around it. This allows the map to slide up close to whoever’s turn it is, but then be in the middle so both players can roll dice In front of them without disturbing the map and in easy view of the other player. (Plus we like lots of room to roll the bones). This ability to adjust the surface along with a standing height, makes it comfortable for long uses because you can move around more and don’t feel as tied down.
Things I’ve learned and changed from original design - I originally used too big of a frame for the map and mounted it on too high of a foam block (you can see these pictures at the bottom) - it made it hard to see the other player’s dice and the big frame took up too much real estate. My global map is mounted on much thinner foam (the framing is bad, you can see if you look closely) but I also used much thinner aluminum angle for the frame. This gives just enough grip when needing to move the map around (I use furniture slides on the bottom, which glide very nicely on the neoprene) but doesn’t make the whole thing too bulky. Having it an inch or so off the surface keeps the dice off, but isn’t so heigh that you can’t see the other player’s dice rolls. When playing other versions (such as Zombies) the board is much smaller, but it can easily swap in and out on the same table since it can move around where ever it is needed or be pushed aside.
I originally made it normal table height, but found long reaches while sitting were harder and it just felt cramped. Standing height with a bar stool is a great way to have the best of both worlds.
The 5.5” rim around the table itself gives you a nice arm rest that doesn’t interfere with the gaming surface. I’m playing with how to best add some cushion to this part - open to suggestions. Sometimes I just lay a piece of leftover neoprene on it.
Dice bounce nice on the neoprene and stay off the floor. It also feels nice and has enough give to allow things to slide but be picked up easily. Wouldn’t definitely go with neoprene again as a surface covering.
I made the drawers open to the inside of the table so you can stay hunched over the action while accessing and stowing stuff away. 50/50 on whether I would keep this if I were to do it again. If I were doing it again, I might try to build customer drawers form scratch using actual drawer glides, but that was beyond my ability when I first did this, so I just used clear plexiglass boxes with aluminum pulls mounted on them. It’s nice having them clear, and I was happy with how the pulls came out, but without glides they can be a little fussy sliding in and out of their slots.
I originally designed the table so that I could put a cover surface back on top when not in use, but find I don’t really ever do that, so if I were to do it again, I might not mess with that part (I never even finished staining those as you can see in the pictures).
CF362D52-269F-4480-8CBB-08139099138F.jpeg A9E12EA1-66EB-4671-86AC-68C62FD30AD5.jpeg 858DE1F2-030A-4D5A-93E4-70A7D1180ADB.jpeg 8F513EE0-DA37-4BA9-880E-4D5EF7BF431F.jpeg F0188165-757B-4CC1-BF67-5045832283C9.jpeg 2E3CD627-0D31-4121-ACF8-682F9F58A40B.jpeg

@Dauvio:

Nice job, and nice paint schemes. I really enjoy your presentation.

I myself don’t like the Italian, and Russian color schemes. So i change their colors. For Italy is bright green because their flag has green in it. For Russia is red because of the red army. I should use your color scheme for ANZAC.

Red Russians is a great idea.

@Tottes1337 all versions (previous and current) of the BBR cards are also available for purchase here:

https://www.makeplayingcards.com/sell/yg-card-decks

If you want a free download, they are available on the discord (link should be above).

Just had your G40 deck from ArtsCow delivered to Wales. They look great and will be very useful for our group as we’ve only played G40 once before and AA50 a handful of times. Thanks for making them available 😊

I did have one question, what are the numbered naval cards for? I’m assuming it’s either something to do with damage to capital ships or for easier tracking of big fleets but I could be wrong on both counts!

Cheers

It goes like this. Have a war for a few years, play Acquire for a few decades, then have another war. The time of course is relative and scale down for the game. Each game should take just over a month.

You, sir, are an inspiration.

Given time, I think I’ll “sincerely flatter” your works.