Sired's Map project - Updated- 4/16 - files available see first post

@Radar alt text

Setup complete. Plating against chatgpt now and it made some horrific mistakes. My Italian navy destroyed the British Mediterranean fleet in turn 1 😂

@Call77 and its not finished like I have said a few times

Hey All,

I’ve got some custom resin 4-figure and single figure .stl files available on wargame3d here:

https://www.wargaming3d.com/?product_cat=&s=ritterkrieg&post_type=product&apbct_visible_fields={"0"%3A{"visible_fields"%3A"product_cat+s"%2C"visible_fields_count"%3A2%2C"invisible_fields"%3A"post_type"%2C"invisible_fields_count"%3A1}}

Just search Ritterkrieg or click on the link above.

I have been playing around with different configurations for a custom table and wanted to note some things I’ve landed on that I really like. A main one thing is having the map mounted so that it can slide around as needed on top of a bigger playing area. My table is 65” x 95” in total with a 5.5” arm rest around the outside and the middle is a recessed neoprene surface. I have the OOB Global map mounted on 1/2” rigid foam with a 1/2” aluminum frame around it. This allows the map to slide up close to whoever’s turn it is, but then be in the middle so both players can roll dice In front of them without disturbing the map and in easy view of the other player. (Plus we like lots of room to roll the bones). This ability to adjust the surface along with a standing height, makes it comfortable for long uses because you can move around more and don’t feel as tied down.
Things I’ve learned and changed from original design - I originally used too big of a frame for the map and mounted it on too high of a foam block (you can see these pictures at the bottom) - it made it hard to see the other player’s dice and the big frame took up too much real estate. My global map is mounted on much thinner foam (the framing is bad, you can see if you look closely) but I also used much thinner aluminum angle for the frame. This gives just enough grip when needing to move the map around (I use furniture slides on the bottom, which glide very nicely on the neoprene) but doesn’t make the whole thing too bulky. Having it an inch or so off the surface keeps the dice off, but isn’t so heigh that you can’t see the other player’s dice rolls. When playing other versions (such as Zombies) the board is much smaller, but it can easily swap in and out on the same table since it can move around where ever it is needed or be pushed aside.
I originally made it normal table height, but found long reaches while sitting were harder and it just felt cramped. Standing height with a bar stool is a great way to have the best of both worlds.
The 5.5” rim around the table itself gives you a nice arm rest that doesn’t interfere with the gaming surface. I’m playing with how to best add some cushion to this part - open to suggestions. Sometimes I just lay a piece of leftover neoprene on it.
Dice bounce nice on the neoprene and stay off the floor. It also feels nice and has enough give to allow things to slide but be picked up easily. Wouldn’t definitely go with neoprene again as a surface covering.
I made the drawers open to the inside of the table so you can stay hunched over the action while accessing and stowing stuff away. 50/50 on whether I would keep this if I were to do it again. If I were doing it again, I might try to build customer drawers form scratch using actual drawer glides, but that was beyond my ability when I first did this, so I just used clear plexiglass boxes with aluminum pulls mounted on them. It’s nice having them clear, and I was happy with how the pulls came out, but without glides they can be a little fussy sliding in and out of their slots.
I originally designed the table so that I could put a cover surface back on top when not in use, but find I don’t really ever do that, so if I were to do it again, I might not mess with that part (I never even finished staining those as you can see in the pictures).
CF362D52-269F-4480-8CBB-08139099138F.jpeg A9E12EA1-66EB-4671-86AC-68C62FD30AD5.jpeg 858DE1F2-030A-4D5A-93E4-70A7D1180ADB.jpeg 8F513EE0-DA37-4BA9-880E-4D5EF7BF431F.jpeg F0188165-757B-4CC1-BF67-5045832283C9.jpeg 2E3CD627-0D31-4121-ACF8-682F9F58A40B.jpeg

As part of building my Global 1936 capability, I’ve converted Bob A Mickelson’s Pacific 1940 Task Force Markers so you can use them for Europe 1940 Armies. I have the small Global war map so think task force markers will be invaluable! As per my Anniversary aid’s used Bob’s work as a base as liked the graphical presentation of his markers the most.

If you download Bob’s original markers from the Pacific 1940 thread you can use for Global 40 as well of course, or Global War 1936 as I intend to.

Hope others find them useful.

France - http://www.mediafire.com/view/098f7r95m45uk3t/Task%20Force%20Markers%20-%20France.png
Italy - http://www.mediafire.com/view/xtwn2jxou1i7gnh/Task%20Force%20Markers%20-%20Italy.png
Germany - http://www.mediafire.com/view/cdhbhs7ibbsg945/Task%20Force%20Markers%20-%20Germany.png
Russia - http://www.mediafire.com/view/c11v6cpn0pmxiw3/Task%20Force%20Markers%20-%20Russia.png

Photo of completed markers:
http://www.mediafire.com/view/w62e415a9dqph95/IMG_2333.jpg

when can i purchase your G40 custom card deck and whats the cost also is there any way I can get the 1 piece map already made and shipped thanx computers are nt my forte they re just a necessary evil for me thanx for all you do

Hey Everyone,

Here is our progress on this project as of August 1st 2017…
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=AL1avCMC_i0

@Tall:

Lucas,

––My friend,…I DO NOT want to hear from you for a month! Please go and take care of your important personal business. I wish you and your soon-to-be wife THE BEST!
––We’ll talk about paint jobs in a month (or so).

Here’s my best wishes to your future happiness.

“Tall Paul”

Haha… I will do my best on that front. Thanks again for the well wishes. I will keep the German aircraft safe at home for the time being.